There's the pot calling the kettle black. I resent your double wide comment, and think you are being ignorant as well. And yet, I agree that his post was unnecessary and trivial.

 

"Double wide" isn't politically correct anymore. The term is "manufactured housing". But I DO agree with your post.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jboogie
well, there goes all the excitment we had yesterday. trifecta here I come.

X2. +20 CHP lmao and they'll prolly want $1000 for it. Trifecta is now supposedly "undetectable" as well.


Undetectable by WHO?

 

Sorry if I offended anyone with the double wide post.

I in fact have no problem with living in a trailer and it was an attempt to be funny.

 

Me too.

 

Vince claims to have figured out a way for the ECU to read that it's the stock tune when GM hooks it up to a Tech 2.

Therefore they will check the tune and not suspect anything.

Now if they take it for a test drive and it hits 20psi, then you will have explaining to do.

 

No problem, we're cool

Correct. That is what I was referring to

 

Somewhere on here I saw a post from someone that would rather have a "plug and play" hook up for the TMAP sensors in the upgrade kit rather than an ugly and usually not very good crimp connection that can be pulled apart quite easily and will corrode over time. That would really be nice BUT I've searched all the sites I used when doing the wiring on my Fiero/LS1 and couldn't find anything to match. I think the problem is you would need the corresponding connector for the one on the harness in the car. I'm sure THAT one is available somewhere but the connector on the TMAP that connects to the harness is a physical part of the sensor and as such is probably not available as an INTERCONNECT connector. So on the jumper you would have one end with a connector like the one on the harness and on the other end there's nothing available.

So we're back to splicing. Why not use a "solder splice" and you will get a hermetically sealed splice without crimping. Just strip and insert the wires, one from each end, into the splice, apply heat from a regular heat gun (or borrow mama's blow drier) and a little solder ring in the center inside the 1 inch piece of shrink tube will melt and solder the wires together. Gradually move the heat towards both ends and the tubing will shrink to the diameter of the wire and a small ring of sealant will melt sealing the tubing to the wire on both ends. Bingo!! You have a splice that will never corrode and is as strong as the wire itself. And they LOOK PROFESSIONAL. The same technology has been used in the space program since day one. They can be found here;

http://order.waytekwire.com/CGI-BIN/...3E2052+M37+ENG

http://order.waytekwire.com/products...%20CONNECTORS/

The only drawback is they are a little pricey. But if one person bought the minimum and offered them to everybody else it wouldn't be so bad. I'd do it but I don't have enough 18-20 gauge to offer and I'm not going to buy another batch. The minimum quantity to order would be 10 @ .47 cents each. The shipping and handling will cost you more than the splices. You could use the extras, along with some scrap wire, to practice on to get the technique right. BUT IT IS NOT DIFFICULT.

NOTE,
I just looked closer at these splices in the catalog. They NOW offer a splice exactly as I described above but is also CRIMPED. They are on the second link above. I guess the choice is yours. Personally I'd go with the solder only. The people at Waytek are easy to talk to and ship fast.

Good luck.

 

Try mouser.com they have loads of anything electronic

 

I'm familiar with Mouser also. I bought a few connectors from them also. Three 30 pin connectors that I either couldn't find anywhere else or didn't require a larger minimum purchase. My problem with Mouser is FINDING what I want. And they are MORE expensive but with no minimum but I suspect they make that up with a "handling" charge. Yes I just DID find a similar splice just now on Mouser. 18-22-gauge @ .70 cents ea. with no minimum. But I want to EMPHASIZE buy some EXTRA for practise. They ARE easy to use and work really well (a lot of them went to the Moon and are still circling the Earth today) but DO require a little technique. Thanks for the heads up on Mouser. I found them on Waytek faster so Mouser lost out.

Damn!! Every Chevy dealer in my area is emailing me with adds. Everybody's having an Open House. But no beer and hot dogs like the old days.

 

byob

 

Make that BYORB. I don't drink.

 

Don;t be afraid to call them up and speak to CS, they can point you where you need to go in the catalog from a description you give them

 

Thanks. I'll remember that.

 

Not that all of these posts have been on topic...but WHAT THE HELL does THIS have to do with the stage kit?

 

i didnt feel like making a new thread so suck it!

 

Talking about a plug and play adaptor for the TMAP sensors that are part of the Upgrade isn't on topic? Why not? I was responding to someone elses post asking about a plug and play for the installation and I was offering possible reasons why it can't be done and some other solutions to the dreaded crimp connectors. If you don't like a little education every once in a while, well then I apologize to you. Some people appreciate learning about things they are not familiar with and might make their job easier or better. Now put that pointed hat back on and stand in the corner.

 

Is everybody READY?

http://www.gmtunersource.com/index.p...pdate--july-31

My hard parts are on their way as we speak. The calibration will take some weeks more but I'll be ready.

CED has a BUNCH of part #19212670 on the shelf so you really don't have to order it right now if you want to wait for the cal. But I'm usually a day late or a dollar short for everything so I'll take mine early and wait for the calibration to arrive in an envelope.

 

So what your saying is that the parts in the other stage kits are the same, it's the tune that is different so we could order the kit already and get the tune when available?

Yes I know the parts won't work without a tune, but it would be nice to split up the cost.

 

Did you even read which one I quoted? It wasn't about Tmap, was about brakes... I was very interested in what YOU were posting. ? Your response to me reminds me of someone who gets mad at 'the little voice' in their head and yells outloud.

Here, you can have your pointed hat back.

(Keep the good info coming please)

 

its a scam

 

Sorry! That's what happens when you open the mouth before the eyes. Can't even offer an excuse. Oh well!

What's a scam?

 

Yes the kit parts are the same, the only differance will be the flash/tune. Keep in mind the flash won't be here for a min of 30 days or so.

This a very good way to split up the costs. Buy the kit now and have it installed once the flash is released.

 

so if we buy the kit from you we pay 550 and then have to pay extra at a dealer for the install of the flash? or do we show a paper or something that u send us with what we buy from you and they just do it real quick?

 

well someone needs to install the sensors

Then the dealer hooks it up to the Tech 2 and installs the tune.

 

You would have to pay the dealer either for the complete install about 2 hours at their going labor rate or install the kit you self and pay for the dealer to flash it about 30 to 45 minutes at their going labor rate.

NOTE: IF you install the kit and drive it to the dealer it will set the code P2227 baro sensor. The code will go away when the GMPP Tune is installed.