Originally Posted by Terminator2

Yeah that is at least twice as long as that pull would take on the street.

Originally Posted by Matt M

The dyno graph doesn't look too bad at all for a mail order tune. We definitely don't set them up to run real aggressive because every car is a little different and the tune needs to be safe. As far as the boost fade and torque numbers- this is not a typical dyno test. If you look at the chart, you can see that there was already over 6psi boost at 32mph in 3rd gear. Then it took 18.8 seconds to reach 106mph! Apparently, this dyno was set to load the car WAY more than it would ever see on the street or especially on a Dynojet. Accurate loading would have resulted in the test taking closer to 12 seconds, not 18+. Because of this unrealistic load, the torque numbers are higher than they would normally be. The boost spike is also higher than normal due to the increased load, which inflates the torque numbers. The long pull is also likely responsible for a little more boost drop at high RPM as well. Exhaust pressure would be through the roof trying to run 20+ psi for several seconds with the stock turbo and stock exhaust. I'm guessing that the 16.6psi at the end of the pull was more of a result from the extreme exhaust pressures not allowing the turbo to spin fast enough to support 18-20psi as it normally would. Decreasing the load would most likely lean out the AFR a little as well.

Originally Posted by Matt M

I'm not sure why you are giving me a "what the hell" when I have to come on here and read false information that you are posting about us. I simply stated that you either looked at the file wrong, or it wasn't our file. Now that you are saying "the table" tells me that you may not have factored in all of the tables when making that statement. Either way, it doesn't matter. Your statement was false. The only place we decrease timing is at moderate loads in the main spark chart. If you look at the AFR timing and IAT timing charts, you will see that you still end up with more timing than stock in pretty much any condition. There are reasons why we set the timing charts up this way. I have done more dyno pulls on my Cobalt than everyone else that has posted in this thread combined. For these reasons, I don't care too much for coming in here and reading that we run less timing than stock and that we do stuff weird.

Originally Posted by vahdyx

If it's hard to see, 262WHP 371WTQ

Originally Posted by vahdyx

Guess I hate to digress, but what exactly is happening here? I'm reading and not following. Is my tune messed up or was it a bad dyno?

Also wangspeed, I live in Wheat Ridge, Colorado which is 5459 ft above sea level and the test was 5480 feat above sea level.

It wasn't to cold out, I'd say 40 degrees.

Originally Posted by vahdyx

Guess I hate to digress, but what exactly is happening here? I'm reading and not following. Is my tune messed up or was it a bad dyno?

Also wangspeed, I live in Wheat Ridge, Colorado which is 5459 ft above sea level and the test was 5480 feat above sea level.

It wasn't to cold out, I'd say 40 degrees.

Originally Posted by Wangspeed

I just took another look at it, since it had been a few months. I recall now what I didn't like about it. I think the way the AFR spark correction was used was an interesting idea, but even under good conditions, the map I was looking at would result in less timing in many areas, IAT correction accounted for. Whatever the tune was, we went back to stock, and set it up from scratch, and my friend's been happier since.

You're right about vahdyx's dyno setup. I missed that. So if that's not how the car should behave under normal circumstances, then my apologies. He's also in Colorado, so that's going to affect things too, depending on where exactly he is.

Originally Posted by Matt M

As Ronn pointed out, you are going to get conflicting comments. The bottom line is this- everyone agrees that the tune is safe. You also stated that you felt a huge power gain since you added our ECM and that the car is more fun to drive. At that point, the case is closed. You have a good mod.

Originally Posted by leoaa777

That tune seems to be absolute trash.

My ss did 250 whp sae corrected and 25ish wtq sae with a drop in and 3 inch homemade downpipe.

I did the tank bypass mod and torque spiked to 26ish wtq sae on a dynojet.

Not tune, nothing, 4th gear pull. 16-17 psi at 98ish degrees F.

How can a tune only net you roughly 10-15 whp?? Wasted money.

Go at least trifecta or hp custom tune. I'm no longer a dealer nor trying to push it neither but I give respect where is due.

Originally Posted by leoaa777

That tune seems to be absolute trash.

My ss did 250 whp sae corrected and 25ish wtq sae with a drop in and 3 inch homemade downpipe.

I did the tank bypass mod and torque spiked to 26ish wtq sae on a dynojet.

Not tune, nothing, 4th gear pull. 16-17 psi at 98ish degrees F.

How can a tune only net you roughly 10-15 whp?? Wasted money.

Go at least trifecta or hp custom tune. I'm no longer a dealer nor trying to push it neither but I give respect where is due.

Originally Posted by vahdyx

Negative! ZZP tune is great.

Originally Posted by leoaa777

That tune seems to be absolute trash.

My ss did 250 whp sae corrected and 25ish wtq sae with a drop in and 3 inch homemade downpipe.

I did the tank bypass mod and torque spiked to 26ish wtq sae on a dynojet.

Not tune, nothing, 4th gear pull. 16-17 psi at 98ish degrees F.

How can a tune only net you roughly 10-15 whp?? Wasted money.

Go at least trifecta or hp custom tune. I'm no longer a dealer nor trying to push it neither but I give respect where is due.

Originally Posted by leoaa777

That tune seems to be absolute trash.

My ss did 250 whp sae corrected and 25ish wtq sae with a drop in and 3 inch homemade downpipe.

I did the tank bypass mod and torque spiked to 26ish wtq sae on a dynojet.

Not tune, nothing, 4th gear pull. 16-17 psi at 98ish degrees F.

How can a tune only net you roughly 10-15 whp?? Wasted money.

Go at least trifecta or hp custom tune. I'm no longer a dealer nor trying to push it neither but I give respect where is due.

Originally Posted by leoaa777

That tune seems to be absolute trash.

My ss did 250 whp sae corrected and 25ish wtq sae with a drop in and 3 inch homemade downpipe.

I did the tank bypass mod and torque spiked to 26ish wtq sae on a dynojet.

Not tune, nothing, 4th gear pull. 16-17 psi at 98ish degrees F.

How can a tune only net you roughly 10-15 whp?? Wasted money.

Go at least trifecta or hp custom tune. I'm no longer a dealer nor trying to push it neither but I give respect where is due.

Originally Posted by leoaa777

That tune seems to be absolute trash.

My ss did 250 whp sae corrected and 25ish wtq sae with a drop in and 3 inch homemade downpipe.

I did the tank bypass mod and torque spiked to 26ish wtq sae on a dynojet.

Not tune, nothing, 4th gear pull. 16-17 psi at 98ish degrees F.

How can a tune only net you roughly 10-15 whp?? Wasted money.

Go at least trifecta or hp custom tune. I'm no longer a dealer nor trying to push it neither but I give respect where is due.

Originally Posted by BYT*SS*TURBO

This is why you should always enlist the help of a local customer tuner when available. And this is in no way meant to knock ZZP or anyone at all, its hard to offer a OTS tune that covers EVERY vehicle safely and then competes with the power of a well tuned, custom tuned car. It just is.

I would rerun a 3rd gear pull on a dynojet and Ill bet it looks better

Originally Posted by BYT*SS*TURBO

I mean in terms of power numbers. Not reliability or quality of tune. Just purely from a number standpoint.

Edit: And I should change it to say a GOOD local tuner lol. I really meant no offense or knock towards you or your tune.