hey guys got a couple questions here, im thinking of getting a head for a 2.2L and a set of cams will there be any difficulties swapping the heads, any years i should look for,

if ur asking why, i burnt 2 valves out and broke 2 shims, which than in turn threw my timing out dont ask how, and than i bent 2 valves, for what it ran, it ran insane i wont lie, hardest ive felt my car pull, i did inpections, the piston is fine, but my head is fucked,

i know right now it seems like my car is at a complete stall, its gettng to be annoying i wont lie lol, but yah, i cant find 2.2 eco heads liek nothing, and i dont care about my cam positioning sensor i just lose drivabilitly from my understanding something to do with starting the car, also i like the fact that cam blanks are actually availible for the 2.2 unlike our 2.0L(unless u wanna dish out big cas, not that i mind, but ill go non drivability over forking over more lol)

so someone lead me on the broken path to victory please lol, also while im at ill be installing my gt30r, with custom intake and exhaust manifold , goood bye supercharger,( wow i didnt dirve my car all summer)


also i am having oil pressure issues, but i need to talk to level zero first and see what they say i think i missed a step in my balance shaft delete kit install

 

This would be a huge mistake. You need the cam position sensor or the engine wont run. If you bent a valve, you also destroyed the piston. It's that simple. What is a shim? Why do you think your head is bad? Just get a valve job and replace the damaged valves.

 

go with the 2.4 head, and get that VVT that should make some powa. i'm surprised no one has thought of doing that swap. its a involved process but it should work and yield to some good gains. or go with the LNF head, VVT and direct injection.

 

[QUOTE=Halfcent;1386536] If you bent a valve, you also destroyed the piston. It's that simple.QUOTE]


NOT true. I personally have bent a valve without harming the piston at all. It depends on exactly how intimate the two became. Bent just enough to lose compression is not the same as smashed to pieces.

 

Joe I like you but it is time to cut your losses.
Obviously you do your job well to be paid as good as you are.
It also seems apparent that you are only so, so at doing this kind of rebuild.
Take the good money you make and pay someone who does this for a profession.
So many threads have been written about guys doing their own builds and so far 99% of them end in problems, problems, delays, problems and failure.
Give your nevers a break, and have someone build it right with no skimping or MM'ing.
Joe I do like you, sorry to bring you bad news.

The LNF head doe not fit the LSJ. That was one of the first things released was that these are not interchangable heads.

 

If you bend a steel valve against the top of an aluminum piston, which one do you think is going to be damaged more? Sure the piston may still work. But there will be a gouge in the top of the piston, and that gouge will become a hot spot and cause preignition.

 

Valves can bend without having hit the piston. I'm not gonna explain, Google it.

 

I am aware of that. It usually requires that some other kind of damage occurred as well to cause the valve to bend, such a foreign matter getting stuck between the valve and the seat. But from what I read, his damage was the result of piston contact due to valve timing getting messed up somehow. That's why I asked what a shim is, and why he thinks the head is damaged.

 

My piston was aluminum, and my valve steel, ive SEEN it happen. You can believe whatever you want, but bending a valve enough for it not to function properly does not have to damage the piston.

Bend a steel piece of thin wire with an aluminum piston and then look for a gouge, not gonna be there. Valves arent thin like wire but they have alot less mass than a piston, and are relatively thin on the edge compared to the thickness of a piston, same principle.

Of course if theres a visible gouge its going to be a problem. Honestly the best advice is to take it to a competent machinist.

 

good news, the shop called, found my oil pressure issue, and the head is not screwed infact, and the valves are not bent, 2 of the valves are burnt out, from bad oil pressure, turns out the little bolts that go into the motor with allen keys, on was completely missing, yes i said missing, how i dont know, anyways they put it back (it kinda explains my mysterious oil leal)

new gasket, new studs, should all be here tomorrow, and running by friday what a relief

the original shop it was at said the valves were bent b/c the cams were tight down and 2 of the valves were open, i ended up taking it my cousins shop who than laughed, but yah the new valves went in as they were some in stock in edmonton, so things actually might look half decent for once, hes just scared about timing my motor

my 2 cents for the day

dont trust new automotive shops to your area, as it seems like they were trying to screw me, but were the only guys able to get me in really quick

 

They are called freeze plugs. And they don't just fall out. Someone would have had to remove it. And it would have pissed oil out like crazy.

Why are getting new studs? They are completely reuseable.

 

head studs arent are they, so freeze plugs, yah im thinking along the lines of sabotage but not sure, they said only one was missing, and they torqued the other ones

 

Sorry Joe, I thought you were doing this yourself.
It is good to hear that the outcome is not has bad as first thought.

 

i have a complete 2.2 top end for sale.....

 

Studs of any kind are completely reuseable. They are not torque to yeild.

 

yah once i started having problems it went to a shop
i rebuilt the motor which so far internal has has no problems, the tranny issue was my fault , i screwed that up otherwise its been nothing but **** luck, so i handed it to the professionals, i dont have time right now lol

 

I hear you.

 

really? I know on the 2.2's they are tq to yield. Thought they would have used the same bolts.

http://tunersource.gmblogs.com/Racer..._250-600hp.pdf
right off of page 2

 

You are talking about the stock bolts. We are talking about aftermarket studs. Studs are not bolts.