2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

574's TVS mini build

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Old 04-19-2013, 10:11 PM
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it wasent hydro locked
Old 04-19-2013, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Josh@ottp
As I recall you left here with a base tune and never came back to have it finish tuned. You also never paid the remaining balance of about $3,000 you still owe.....
sounds like some legal action is in your future
Old 04-19-2013, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by mrbelvedere
it wasent hydro locked
What do you think John?
Old 04-19-2013, 10:24 PM
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Also how can I tell if this is a lsj block for sure? My buddy that's helpin me tear it down thinks it may be a 2.2
Old 04-19-2013, 10:55 PM
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looks like preignition to me and it isent a 2.2
Old 04-19-2013, 11:04 PM
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Were u loging wen it happened??
Old 04-19-2013, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Tjolley
Were u loging wen it happened??
Unfortunately I wasn't
Old 04-19-2013, 11:36 PM
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Picsssss
Old 04-20-2013, 12:10 AM
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more pics x2
Old 04-20-2013, 02:14 AM
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Rod didnt break from "too much power". It was most likely from a few possible culprits. One possibility is that you were washing so much fuel past the rings into the oil that it thinned out and spun a rod bearing so catostrophically that it got tight and the resistance got the best of it and the rod quit fighting and said peace out. Another possibility is that you didnt get all the coolant out of the oil pan after pulling the head and that thinned your oil and caused the same situation as above. Another possibility is that a timing compnent broke and valves made contact with pistons but also at the same time (and only because 99% of the time the valves will give way before the rods) the loose timing chain got caught on something and tried to stop the rotating assembly....this scenario is very unlikely but im bored and wanted to type it I feel like there was another one I was thinking of but I'm too tired to remember lol
Old 04-20-2013, 02:26 AM
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thanks for reminding me i need to check my oil again, i used 6 quarts of oil and my dip stick showed a quart low so I threw in one more quart. I usually run 6.5-7, just trying to find the right level so I dont have extra oil in the pan unnecessarily.
Old 04-20-2013, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by InfraRedline
Rod didnt break from "too much power". It was most likely from a few possible culprits. One possibility is that you were washing so much fuel past the rings into the oil that it thinned out and spun a rod bearing so catostrophically that it got tight and the resistance got the best of it and the rod quit fighting and said peace out. Another possibility is that you didnt get all the coolant out of the oil pan after pulling the head and that thinned your oil and caused the same situation as above. Another possibility is that a timing compnent broke and valves made contact with pistons but also at the same time (and only because 99% of the time the valves will give way before the rods) the loose timing chain got caught on something and tried to stop the rotating assembly....this scenario is very unlikely but im bored and wanted to type it I feel like there was another one I was thinking of but I'm too tired to remember lol
Or he washed the oil off the cylinder wall the piston locked up and the rob said **** u Im out. Im not sure how many tanks of fuel he ran through the car but the oil thinning and causing the rod bearing to spin is more like a long term thing but it is possible. He even could have had a flawed rod that couldnt take the abuse.
I think since the car was being tuned for these ID1000 its almost like his tune who ever it is didn't have a good starting point for these injectors.
Anyways 574 get a block and some of mrb sleves a set of stock rods and some diamonds and get that bitch back on the road.
Sell Ur tvs and ID1000s to pay for it
Old 04-20-2013, 07:58 AM
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I ran about one tank of E through the car. After the head swap I changed the oil after about 50 miles of driving so the coolant should have been out... As for selling all my ****, I think I've decided I'm just gonna get a loan and rebuild rather than go back to stock
Old 04-20-2013, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by mrbelvedere
looks like preignition to me and it isent a 2.2
Mr.B For the win. Folks detonation kills these motors. Runaway detonation is the right description, and you cant get off the gas pedal fast enough, the damage is done. Knock sensors have to see knock to work. If detonation runs away, its TOO LATE!
Old 04-20-2013, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 574
I ran about one tank of E through the car. After the head swap I changed the oil after about 50 miles of driving so the coolant should have been out... As for selling all my ****, I think I've decided I'm just gonna get a loan and rebuild rather than go back to stock
If Ur gona get a loan. Do it 100% right don't half ass the build at all
Old 04-20-2013, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Tjolley

If Ur gona get a loan. Do it 100% right don't half ass the build at all
New block, pistons, rods, new timing set from CED, misc. machining, bearings and gasket bullshit. Gonna try and do this only once
Old 04-20-2013, 09:26 AM
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Now u will be able to go into beast mode with out having to worrie about it
Old 04-20-2013, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 574
New block, pistons, rods, new timing set from CED, misc. machining, bearings and gasket bullshit. Gonna try and do this only once
Good luck, building my block I used mrbelvedere sleeves and he installed the sleeves and sourced a block to put them in (ups broke 2 of them, so I had way more money in a block than was needed), money-wise I would go with mrb sleeves or buy that cavalier guys stuff in the for sale section and assemble it yourself. If you have the budge with a loan get a zzp gen 3 block or have zzp assemble it if you dont feel comfortable with the build.

Anyway good luck man.
Old 04-20-2013, 11:26 AM
  #1119  
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Originally Posted by c130aviator
Good luck, building my block I used mrbelvedere sleeves and he installed the sleeves and sourced a block to put them in (ups broke 2 of them, so I had way more money in a block than was needed), money-wise I would go with mrb sleeves or buy that cavalier guys stuff in the for sale section and assemble it yourself. If you have the budge with a loan get a zzp gen 3 block or have zzp assemble it if you dont feel comfortable with the build.

Anyway good luck man.
Exactly what I'm tryin to do

edit: block and rods are mine

Last edited by 574; 04-20-2013 at 12:15 PM.
Old 04-20-2013, 12:17 PM
  #1120  
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Request for more pics... this is about all I have for now, cyl 3 piston is crooked in cylinder because rod is broken




MODS: feel free to change the title to, " 574's all out TVS build" lol
Old 04-20-2013, 12:27 PM
  #1121  
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Originally Posted by 574
I ran about one tank of E through the car. After the head swap I changed the oil after about 50 miles of driving so the coolant should have been out... As for selling all my ****, I think I've decided I'm just gonna get a loan and rebuild rather than go back to stock
Fail. You should have changed the oil before even turning the key.
Old 04-20-2013, 12:30 PM
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The oil was drained when the head was taken off and fresh was put in when everything was put back together... then I drained that and put a new filter in after about 50 miles... damn who you think I am?! lol
Old 04-20-2013, 12:36 PM
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Ah ok haha
Old 04-21-2013, 11:25 AM
  #1124  
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Engine is out MF'ers! pulled it by myself...
Old 04-21-2013, 12:02 PM
  #1125  
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Damn how did that rod fail?


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