Yeah my car finally took a **** after a week of having GMS3 on it. Having the car looked at today. Think it's a rocker or valve either way no good. I put too much money into it, I may call it quits when shes working again

 

lol give me the gmstg 3 pcm

 

cant part the car due to. Don't have stock pulley and still owe on it! yeah im upside down and about to burn it

 

that sucks man but hey when you start modding thats the risk you take so quit bitching and crying about it get your car fixed and enjoy it

 

Simple question....

What did you set your rev limiter to??

Also, you can't really blame GMS3. It was more than likely an underlying issue. I've been GMS3+ for 3 years now w/o any issues. Don't give up on the car. If it is something with the valvetrain it will be the perfect time to start upgrading it!!

 

Sorry to hear that. Ive been on GMS3 for about 4 years now. Were you running GMS1 42lbs injectors? What other mods did you have? Lastly how did it happen?

 

When i was testing the rev limiter out it was stock. And i redlined it 2 times. which stock was like 6100 rpms or something. Than when i finally figured out how to change the limit, I put it at a 7250. I was told my tensioner could of broke.

I don't blame the GMS3, I blame the fact my car is old as ***** and it's costing me 200 bucks a week to keep it upkeep. Id rather buy a low mileage high horsepower car

all things in my sig

 

How many miles?

 

106k on a 6 yr old car

 

That's not bad... just gotta update things as they go.

 

I'm close to 80k on my cobalt, the only thing that has gone out is the aftercooler pump, which I just replaced yesterday for the 3rd time. Recently got a new DP from the dealership from a recall notice.

I have 127k miles on my GTO on a stock engine, tranny, and serpentine belt. It runs low 12's @ 110mph. The only I've replaced on it was the radiator at 120k miles. It got a hairline crack and was dripping very little water.

What repairs are you doing weekly on the cobalt?

 

If you actually revved it to 7250, you can't blame the tune. Prolly not the best idea on stock valvetrain!

 

it's set to 7250 ive taken it 7k just because i don't wanna bounce off the limiter. But it's far from just motor work. Car needs new Clutch/throwout bearing, and Control arm bushings. also a main seal for transmission is going out which is leaking fluid .That right there is another grand. Idk i think im gonna take my losses and go get something newer. Maybe a stang or gto

I have newer tires, Shocks/struts, upgraded brakes with new fluid. Newer oil in supercharger (100k) and Motor (3-5k). Motor mounts all new exhaust pieces. changed IC pump 1 time at 80k it still works. all fluid has been replaced

I change wat i can when i can afford it/have time. I work 50+hrs a week

 

When it rains it pours sometimes! Sounds like that's what happening to you. Sorry to hear you're having such bad luck!

 

supposedly my car is running to rich??? how does that stage kit run to rich.

Piston 2,3,4 all 210 compression. Number 1 is at 185

 

i heard the GM stage kits make you run way rich.

 

Not true with the GMR Stage 3 kit....

 

The tune its self is not rich (11.4 cmnd AFR through most of the midrange & 11.3 cmnd AFR up top). There could be a number of factors causing your car to run rich. Piston protection pulls timing and richens the tune up when combustion temps get to high. Is your intercooler pump working properly?? Do you have an interceptor to monitor parameters like knock, timing, IAT2's, etc.?

 

my intercooler pump works fine. It used to be broke about 20k miles ago and changed it out. Might have some air still in the system since i put on the H/E. I don't have a dual pass i know ur supposed to since it's gms3. But won't it just pull timing if gets to hot, i know when it was stock and the ic pump went out it just got dick slow.

I dont have a aerforce gauge im getting one when i fix the problem of the car. Im gonna put all new parts and make sure this motor last lol. O well gotta get a beater to get to work.

 

It will pull timing, but if temps get too hot piston protection adds fuel (richens up) to cool the cylinder temps. I've had piston protection kick in when my old Random tech downpipe's flex section warped and choked off my exhaust flow. My car was super rich, and even fouled out the plugs.

 

oh well, i thinks it time to go big! i just bought a secondary car to get to work. Figure, I'm just build the **** outta my cobalt cause honestly i love that car. I know it has TONS of potential. Since im taking the motor out no point in not doing it right the first time.

Engine: Thinking Cams,Pistons,Valve springs/retainers,stronger rods,better head studs, P&P head, all top notch gaskets, and the upgraded balance shaft.dual pass plate, opt b kit. What else am i missing?

Transmission: Upgraded gm clutch,throwout bearing, maybe flywheel. stronger axles.

looking at handling 300-350hp maybe a 50 shot of nitrous. Think this will work?

Figure ill be spending up to 3.5-4k for all these parts.

 

This is Sean on whitneys account. Dont do aftermarket pistons and rods without sleeves. That is the last bit of advice Im going to give you. And dude, start doing some research before you keep sounding dumb. Better head studs? Car doesn't come with head studs it has bolts.

 

dude whos camel dick have you been smoking on

1 sleeves arent needed just make sure the sleeves are still round and piston to cylinder clearance is correct if they need cleaned up i would recomend not going past .010 as the stock sleeves are only .058 thick

2 stock rods and stock rod bolts are plenty strong enough for 95% of the people out there even on spray

3 stock head bolts are plenty strong enough even on spray the only advantage golden eagle or arp have is you can reuse them

 

your cylinder pressure is ok but 1 is a little low but not bad

 

Says the guy with a cracked sleeve pic in his sig...