easiest install of any part i have ever done.

its quite simple

 

start off slow, and then get into it once the tires start to grab. find an adbandoned road and just practise 1st to 2nd shifts.

 

i agree that helps alot if you dont get the dampener... but either way practice will probably help the most

 

If you're at a track, from what I found with my 2.2l, I launch at about 5300 rpms, yes, I know some of you must think that's pretty high, but like blown 4-banger said, if you do it perfectly of letting out the clutch and pressing in the gas, you have no tire spin / wheel hop and wicked launch. It also helps that the track that's close to me just got repaved and has new rubber on there. But by doing this right, you can have an awesome 60' time and no tire spin, my best 60' for a 2.2l is 2.2.

 

your best 0-60 is what?

 

http://www.standardshift.com/faq.html


http://www.standardshift.com/videos.html

 

damn where was that site when my puto parents were trying to teach me to drive

 

That's 60' (feet) not 0-60 mph.

I haven't had the Cobalt to the track yet, but my '71 Camaro pulled a 2.0031 second 60 ft. time on street radials (not drag radials). If I were to run drag radials, or better yet, slicks, I don't see why I couldn't get 1.8, maybe as low as 1.6 second 60 ft. times.

I may end up with a broken driveshaft or rear end though, and I don't really want that.

 

oh lol my bad... must have just skimmed it the first time

 

Silicone in the mounts....good advice. You will get more engine noise in the cabin, but it works and costs less than $10....depending on how many tubes it takes.

I like real world cheap but effective advice
Ron

 

The problem with a torque brace....and I'm not discounting the effectiveness of the stiffy, is that it attempts to limit travel at only one end of the engine. When in fact, the engine wants to move around at all 3 mounting points. So you limit it at one end, and it can still move at the other 2 points.
Make sense?
The silicone in the other mounts works well. I did that on my Calais....quite effective.
Don't want the dealer guys to see red? Use black GE silicone.....

Ron

 

Unless it's a pretty bad ass Camaro....it won't drop to a 1.6 60 ft time. But it could. That takes a car that runs mid 11's. 1.8 would be reasonable.
M/T thus far makes the best drag radial.
My nova hit a best of 1.37 this year...with radial slicks....and it busted the front U-joint, and the damage wasn't pretty.
Have fun!
Ron

 

Ouch!!! Please tell me you had a drive shaft loop.

Yea. That's what I meant though. After future mods to the engine I may possibly be able to drop the 60' times to 1.6 seconds without busting the factory rear end. Of course welding the axle tubes will help keep that from happening. We all know how reliable those are.

Now, to answer the original question, practice, practice, practice. That's the only way. Practice with your car as much as possible. Get to know your car. Know what it likes and doesn't like. It takes practice to find that fine line between max acceleration and spinning the tires.

And don't let any newby tell you that a little tire spin is a good thing. About the only thing it's good for is (as I was just saying to Ron) is keeping factory suspensions from shattering to pieces. But you normally won't have to worry about that with regular street radials.

Oh yea. When you're done practicing, practice more.

 

this man speaks the truth! i got a 2.1 60 ft with all season tires doing it the exact same way!