2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

Ariel Atom: Timing Chain Tensioner? HELP!

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Old 05-10-2013, 02:19 AM
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dude that looks like the new style tensioner, it requires you to turn the motor over without starting the car.
Old 05-10-2013, 02:44 AM
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Originally Posted by YelloEye
I can't answer your first question, I haven't tried that before. However the 2nd one, I would at least spin the motor through a full cycle by hand to make sure you're not going to smash your valves. My buddy did the bungie cord method at some point when he pulled the head or cams, he stuck it back together and just cranked it on his 2.2 L61 motor, bent all 8 exhaust valves.

"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." -Benjamin Franklin

You did the Zipties though so I think you should be alright.

Found this too if you haven't seen it already. https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...sioner-276244/ mentions getting the tensioner in there and then smacking the chain with something.
Will do, thanks!
Old 05-10-2013, 02:45 AM
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Originally Posted by c130aviator
dude that looks like the new style tensioner, it requires you to turn the motor over without starting the car.
Nah, it's the spring for sure.

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Old 05-10-2013, 02:54 AM
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yeah thats the new one! the spring is internal, YOu install it start the car without the fuel pump relay and the spark pulled and it will internally click. I am running that same one.
Old 05-10-2013, 03:05 AM
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Originally Posted by c130aviator
yeah thats the new one! the spring is internal, YOu install it start the car without the fuel pump relay and the spark pulled and it will internally click. I am running that same one.
So why does CED (where i bought it) say to do it the other way? http://www.crateenginedepot.com/pdfs/12608580INS.pdf
Old 05-10-2013, 12:52 PM
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So does anyone have any insite as to why the tensioner needs to be "set" when it's installed and not beforehand? The chain seems to have really good tension and the notch on the tensioner is aligned with the chain guide properly. (see pictures on page 1)
Old 05-10-2013, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by c130aviator
dude that looks like the new style tensioner, it requires you to turn the motor over without starting the car.
no need to do that

Originally Posted by shooterblaze250
So why does CED (where i bought it) say to do it the other way? http://www.crateenginedepot.com/pdfs/12608580INS.pdf
there is the gm way and the css way and zip ties in the cam gears do do **** for keeping the chain tight on the crank

Originally Posted by shooterblaze250
So does anyone have any insite as to why the tensioner needs to be "set" when it's installed and not beforehand? The chain seems to have really good tension and the notch on the tensioner is aligned with the chain guide properly. (see pictures on page 1)
if the spring is released before install the plunger will be at full extension and that makes it a bitch to put in
Old 05-10-2013, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by mrbelvedere
no need to do that

Cool, that's what I thought.

there is the gm way and the css way and zip ties in the cam gears do do **** for keeping the chain tight on the crank

I assume you meant "don't do ****"? Guess I'll have to check the timing then eh?

if the spring is released before install the plunger will be at full extension and that makes it a bitch to put in
Cool. I was able to install it extended without too much trouble. Chain tension seems to be good now.
thanks!
Old 05-10-2013, 07:10 PM
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When I changed mine, just took the old one out, new one in, right out of the box. Bumped the starter 3 or 4 times and went on my way. Was easier than changing a light bulb.
Old 05-10-2013, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackyK
When I changed mine, just took the old one out, new one in, right out of the box. Bumped the starter 3 or 4 times and went on my way. Was easier than changing a light bulb.
^this, i just recommended getting oil in there since it is hydraulic operated. But you definitely dont need to tap that one from CED.
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