Ariel Atom: Timing Chain Tensioner? HELP!
#27
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I can't answer your first question, I haven't tried that before. However the 2nd one, I would at least spin the motor through a full cycle by hand to make sure you're not going to smash your valves. My buddy did the bungie cord method at some point when he pulled the head or cams, he stuck it back together and just cranked it on his 2.2 L61 motor, bent all 8 exhaust valves.
"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." -Benjamin Franklin
You did the Zipties though so I think you should be alright.
Found this too if you haven't seen it already. https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...sioner-276244/ mentions getting the tensioner in there and then smacking the chain with something.
"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." -Benjamin Franklin
You did the Zipties though so I think you should be alright.
Found this too if you haven't seen it already. https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...sioner-276244/ mentions getting the tensioner in there and then smacking the chain with something.
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#31
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So does anyone have any insite as to why the tensioner needs to be "set" when it's installed and not beforehand? The chain seems to have really good tension and the notch on the tensioner is aligned with the chain guide properly. (see pictures on page 1)
#32
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So why does CED (where i bought it) say to do it the other way? http://www.crateenginedepot.com/pdfs/12608580INS.pdf
if the spring is released before install the plunger will be at full extension and that makes it a bitch to put in
#33
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no need to do that
Cool, that's what I thought.
there is the gm way and the css way and zip ties in the cam gears do do **** for keeping the chain tight on the crank
I assume you meant "don't do ****"? Guess I'll have to check the timing then eh?
if the spring is released before install the plunger will be at full extension and that makes it a bitch to put in
Cool. I was able to install it extended without too much trouble. Chain tension seems to be good now.
Cool, that's what I thought.
there is the gm way and the css way and zip ties in the cam gears do do **** for keeping the chain tight on the crank
I assume you meant "don't do ****"? Guess I'll have to check the timing then eh?
if the spring is released before install the plunger will be at full extension and that makes it a bitch to put in
Cool. I was able to install it extended without too much trouble. Chain tension seems to be good now.
#34
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When I changed mine, just took the old one out, new one in, right out of the box. Bumped the starter 3 or 4 times and went on my way. Was easier than changing a light bulb.
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