Battery relocation
Battery relocation
Has anyone ever relocated the battery to the engine compartment? I see that there is a box for it, but the battery is in the trunk.
Wouldn't it make more sense to have that heavy battery over the front wheels?
Wouldn't it make more sense to have that heavy battery over the front wheels?
If its not the fuse box, there is a place to put it,, on the passenger side there is a open spot the battery could fit...there is nothing there, under the hood. Its not because of lack of space..atleast on the 2.0
Actually, the further you could move it towards the front the better - at least off the rear bumper. A 40 lb battery located behind the rear axle exerts not only a rear wards inertia force upon acceleration (due to it's mass), but actually a downward component as well - due to its weight (the force of gravity) coupled with the leveraging effect of it being mounted behind the rear axle. Just moving it in front of the axle will help somewhat.
If you really want to get serious, buy a odyssey or dynabatt high-tech battery. An Odyssey pc680 weighs 15.5 lbs (and is big enough to start and run your Cobalt fine). An Odyssey pc925 weighs 26 lbs and is large enough for some stereo reserve capacity too. Either could be mounted under the rear seat. I've actually measured it, and there is plenty of room on either side. The Odyssey is a dry cell, so it doesn't gas, can't leak, and can be mounted in any position. This mid-car battery placement would also shorten the cable run to the front, saving weight and allowing more current flow for high current devices - like my 120amp e-rams. It's been said that 100 lbs in weight savings = .1sec in the 1/4mile this 25lb weight savings, coupled with superior battery placement (traction gains) should improve your 1/4 by about .03sec.
It seems that no one is interested in performance gains unless they can shave 1/4 second or add 10hp. When engineers design a car, they try to save every single ounce they can off of each component. They know that the cululative effect of all these ounces make a measurable difference in performance, mileage, braking - and ultimately retail sales because of these gains. They know that every hp and every lb counts.
By the way if you think .03sec is not very much, if I could save .03 off my 1/4 mile time (by this simple mod) it would make me the quickest 2.4l auto on the board so far. It's the difference between in first place and being the first loser.
If you really want to get serious, buy a odyssey or dynabatt high-tech battery. An Odyssey pc680 weighs 15.5 lbs (and is big enough to start and run your Cobalt fine). An Odyssey pc925 weighs 26 lbs and is large enough for some stereo reserve capacity too. Either could be mounted under the rear seat. I've actually measured it, and there is plenty of room on either side. The Odyssey is a dry cell, so it doesn't gas, can't leak, and can be mounted in any position. This mid-car battery placement would also shorten the cable run to the front, saving weight and allowing more current flow for high current devices - like my 120amp e-rams. It's been said that 100 lbs in weight savings = .1sec in the 1/4mile this 25lb weight savings, coupled with superior battery placement (traction gains) should improve your 1/4 by about .03sec.
It seems that no one is interested in performance gains unless they can shave 1/4 second or add 10hp. When engineers design a car, they try to save every single ounce they can off of each component. They know that the cululative effect of all these ounces make a measurable difference in performance, mileage, braking - and ultimately retail sales because of these gains. They know that every hp and every lb counts.
By the way if you think .03sec is not very much, if I could save .03 off my 1/4 mile time (by this simple mod) it would make me the quickest 2.4l auto on the board so far. It's the difference between in first place and being the first loser.
Right on, Steve. Not only is the battery in the rear to balance it, it's also on the passenger side to help counter the added weight of the driver.
personally it could benefit you in times of need.
Say your parked in a parking lot and have a dead battery, your surrounded except for the rear. Well it just so happens your battery is in the trunk! BAM! No more dead battery. (if you get a jump of course)
And yes I know you technically shouldn't jump start a battery directly but its rare that it explodes
There is another concept in road racing called mass centralization. This refers to the very center of the car being the heaviest (most massive) ie. where the engine, tranny, driver and the bulk of chassis mass is located.
Think of the car like a merry-go-round or a gyroscope, pivoting around it's center axis. The less mass located around the peripherals ie. bumpers, wheels, roofline, etc, the less inertia the car will exert on the controls, and the more easily it can change directions. Moving the battery to the center of the car helps in this regard. So would replacing your steel inner bumpers with aluminum replacements, replacing hood and trunk with c/f items, removing the sun roof, replacing glass with lexan, etc. Not only does this save weight, but it contributes to a car with less peripheral mass. This will make the car handle much better on the road or a road course (where the car is used most.)
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