2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

Brake install

Old Jun 20, 2008 | 01:24 PM
  #26  
rnjmur's Avatar
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Joined: 06-06-06
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From: O Fallon, MO
Originally Posted by Jephron
I am experiencing the same thing.

One thing I noticed about this write up is that you did not remove clean, and re grease the slider pins, this should be done any time you replace brakes.

ALSO is there anybody out there that have had problems with the rubber bushings on the end of the slider pins. The bushings on mine seem to be swelling and stopping the pin from sliding properly.

I noticed he didn't grease the pins as well. Also noticed he didn't mention putting grease on the on the back of the pads at the grease points, which should always be done as well.


Originally Posted by 06' SS2SS
I have had this problem. The grease was all dried up too. I had to get the pin out (PITA) and clean it up with some steel wool.

If the bushings are not working correctly and/or the grease on the pins is dried up and the pins are not sliding correctly you should replace the caliper mount (not sure what the part is called that houses the pin), the pin and the boot. Cleaning the pin with steel wool and regreasing it is only a temporary fix. You need to replace the parts. If it got dried up and froze it is not working correctly. Brakes are one of the most important parts on your car (at least as long as you want to stop) and you should take any malfunctioning part very serious.
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 01:35 PM
  #27  
06BrandonSS's Avatar
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Joined: 11-24-07
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From: Griffith, Indiana
Originally Posted by Silv3r
The rotor retaining pins (as you call them), the ones that look like lock washers on the studs.. do those need to go back on or does it really matter?
These do not have to go back on, they are put on by the manufacturer just to hold the rotors up to ease assembly for them. Nothing to worry about, all new vehicles come with them on.
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