^^^ yeah just take the valve cover off. probably the easiest way to see which stroke it's in.

 

Thats the same code I was throwing.

Also not understanding what you are saying about me being incorrect or it didnt work for your setup with the 207R cams? I aggree with the statement that the hex may not line up in the same clock positions as the lsj hex. If the hex is off a small amount everything may be being done properly but the small offset the PCM will see as the cam out of time. How aggressive are the 207r turbo cams vs the LSJ cams, I have a set of lsj cams i would be able to sell ya if you wanted to go that route.

 

are you running the saab engine

 

The motor runs fine. Mr. Beldevere you can see the thread on this in my sig


ALSO Saab cam specs:
Number of bearings: 6
Bearing diameter (mm): 26.935-26.960
End float(w/o camshaft sprocet)(mm): .11-.184
End float(w/ camshaft sprocket fitted)(mm): .104-.177

cam lift(mm): 9.70
Exhaust lift(mm): 9.90

B207 E/L:
cam lift, intake (mm): 5.75528
cam lift, exhaust (mm): 5.87187

Inlet valves:
opening: 10 degrees BTDC
closing: 40 degrees ABDC

Exhaust valves:
opening: 34 degrees BBDC
closing:16 degrees ATDC

B207 R:
cam lift, intake (mm): 5.75544
cam lift, exhaust (mm): 5.87203


Inlet valves:
opening: 14 degrees BTDC
closing: 41 degrees ABDC


Exhaust valves:
opening: 47 degrees BBDC
closing:13 degrees ATDC

B207 E/L: Total valve opening duration intake and exhaust: 230 degrees
B207 R: Total valve opening duration intake: Intake: 235 degrees, Exhaust: 240 degrees

Seems their slightly less aggressive, however have a ton more duration.

 

it wasent a stab just a question

the problem could be that the hex in the ex cam just isent positioned correctly for the the lsj electronics due to the fact that the saab engine dosent use a cps(astleast that is what i have gathered from reading if that is the case just turn the code off with hpt

now as for how aggressive a cam is there is just to many variables to determine what cam is more aggressive then another without alot of measuring and just because it may have less lift dosent mean its less aggressive it could have a much higher rate of lift then other cam your comparing it to

advertised duration dosent mean squat they dont publish were they take that measurent from adv duration is more to sell the cam then anything most people think bigger is better that is why you will see 2 cams with the same @.050 duration but different advertised durations adv is more of a gimmick to sell cams the @.050 and r.o.l. is where its at

 

Easy to check how the CAM sensor is timed now by removing the sensor and looking inside the housing @ #4-TDC and #1-TDC. One should look similar to that LSJ build book picture, but most likely it's off by a few degrees due to the Saab cams...

 

Having some problems like this myself, when the sensor is hooked up my car wont start. When it is left unhooked it starts after a few cranks.

 

have you had anything In the engine mechanical timing removed

 

mixed up the connectors maybe, so put the correct connector on the cps. If you mixed it up. check and see if your reverse lights work. If they dont, then you know where the right connector is lol

 

Yes they work im thunking I installed it incorrectly

 

Nothing rwmoved but it was retimed after I did my headgasket ever since then its been having this problem.

 

either you timed the sensor incorrectly or the engine is out of time or both

 

so im having a similiar issue right now with my cam postion sensor. what notch on the crank pulley do i line up with the notch on the timing cover?

 

that is not the proper way the proper way is posted above

 

i had the start problem after my engine build. I retimed my car, lined up the CPS per the picture above (thanks to mrbelvedere) with the number one at TDC and the cams lined up correctly. Then reset my codes with my phone app and elm327, problem solved.

 

I timed my cps just like the pic above. I was asking about the mark on the crank pulley to make sure I had cylinder 1 on compression when it was at tdc

 

you do not time the cps of of #1cylnder compression you time it off of cylinder #4 compression tdc use a compression tester and roll the engine over by hand when it starts to build compression you can put a long screwdriver in #1 to see when you hit tdc as 1 and 4 are at tds at the same time

 

im scared now. i had replaced my CPS a few months ago, didn't know i had to do anything with the timing. all i did was remove the old sensor and put the new one in... same thing with my timing tensioner. somehow the car runs, and well. but still.... my timings GOTTA be off. its just gotta be.

 

If your car is running and not throwing codes your timing is more than likely not off....

When I first installed my cams the chain jumped a tooth or two. Trust me, u will know when your timing is off.

As for a "how to" for the CPS housing see below:

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...ng-kit-292811/

Here's how the CPS housing should look before installing:

 

i thought that too... no codes. guess i lucked out twice then huh?

 

if you removed just the sensor and left the housing installed your fine

 

yes... the sensor on the drivers side rear of the engine

 

That's why you didnt mess up timing....

You can remove the sensor no problem.

It's when you remove the housing timing issues can occur.

 

I should have been more clear, i retimed because I had a tensioner problem the CPS was done because I already had the code and was in there fixing it anyway. They were two seperate issues for me, none the less if you have things off and are working on timing/cams/etc. Make sure you finish up with the CPS being right as well; as a final step.

 

ok so im even more lost now. i still have the old cps that i thought went out so i swapped it back in and put the cps housing in one way with cylinder 1 at tdc and the car just cranked so im assuming that was 180degrees in the wrong way so i spun the crank pulley around 360 degrees and pulled the housing back out and the hex key was 180 degrees away from the mark on the outer housing so i spun it around and put it back in and tried starting it and bam same thing i got going now car starts then dies same thing thats happening in the video i posted. so i unplugged the sensor to see if anything would change and bam same thing car starts then dies. SO WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON IM LOST