2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

Camshaft Position HOW TO????

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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 05:23 PM
  #51  
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From: st.charles mo
heres a link of whats its doing. im almost certain i have the housing in correctly so i clearly have a diffrent issue i just cant figure out why the car is doing the same thing with the sensor unplugged. CAM00036_zpsc0259fe6.mp4 Video by tbandit420 | Photobucket
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 07:09 AM
  #52  
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by tbandit420
ok so im even more lost now. i still have the old cps that i thought went out so i swapped it back in and put the cps housing in one way with cylinder 1 at tdc and the car just cranked so im assuming that was 180degrees in the wrong way so i spun the crank pulley around 360 degrees and pulled the housing back out and the hex key was 180 degrees away from the mark on the outer housing so i spun it around and put it back in and tried starting it and bam same thing i got going now car starts then dies same thing thats happening in the video i posted. so i unplugged the sensor to see if anything would change and bam same thing car starts then dies. SO WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON IM LOST
When u installed it the first time did you pull it back to make sure it didn't turn?

It's very touchy, and moves easily.
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 08:37 AM
  #53  
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From: LR, AR
^ this

I pulled mine and as i tried to reinstall it with the lines lined up it seemed there was a magnet or something pulling it off the line I just set on the hex. Stupid thing, pulled it two or three times to make sure it was truely line up. But it did fix my cps obdII code and starting issue.
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 11:05 AM
  #54  
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From: Port Perry
I can understand why Mr.Belvedere gets cranky. Folks either dont read the answers, dont google it, or whatever. I already pointed out, that if the magnetic pull is too strong for you and makes it a pita, simply remove the sensor ( magnet) from the unit, and it will line up perfectly. Then put the sensor back in.

The pita with that, the ac lines and firewall etc make it difficult to put the sensor back into the unit.
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 11:14 AM
  #55  
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
I can understand why Mr.Belvedere gets cranky. Folks either dont read the answers, dont google it, or whatever. I already pointed out, that if the magnetic pull is too strong for you and makes it a pita, simply remove the sensor ( magnet) from the unit, and it will line up perfectly. Then put the sensor back in.

The pita with that, the ac lines and firewall etc make it difficult to put the sensor back into the unit.
This.

If you carefully line the hex with the line on the housing, and slowly insert into the camshaft it shouldn't move.

It should easily slide into the camshaft hex if lined up properly.

Pull back, but not all the way out, to make sure it stayed aligned.

Last edited by Staged07SS; Feb 14, 2013 at 11:19 AM.
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 11:37 AM
  #56  
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From: Port Perry
^^^^^ exactly. See, now we gotta get folks to read...
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 11:51 AM
  #57  
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
^^^^^ exactly. See, now we gotta get folks to read...
It's tough John.... Most people want the answers w/o taking the time to research & learn. I'm a stubborn person, and like to do things myself. I will work at something until I figure it out. Only if I can't get something to work, will I ask a question.
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 03:54 PM
  #58  
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A tip is to remove the sensor and shove your finger in there to make sure it doesn't rotate.
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 04:10 PM
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From: LR, AR
Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
I can understand why Mr.Belvedere gets cranky. Folks either dont read the answers, dont google it, or whatever. I already pointed out, that if the magnetic pull is too strong for you and makes it a pita, simply remove the sensor ( magnet) from the unit, and it will line up perfectly. Then put the sensor back in.

The pita with that, the ac lines and firewall etc make it difficult to put the sensor back into the unit.
I didnt pull the sensor because the coolant lines were in the way. But its not like this took me hours, I did it in probably 5 minutes. Anyone can, you just need to be sure that line is where it should be when you get the thing back on. I dont have all those other sensors in the way on that side of the motor however. The turbo swap pretty much cleared off that whole side of the motor for a cleaner engine bay.




Also be sure and catch that residual oil in the housing with a rag under the sensor when you pull it, otherwise you will have a dollar sized oil puddle under the car and have you thinking something is wrong.
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 12:11 PM
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by bratboy90
A tip is to remove the sensor and shove your finger in there to make sure it doesn't rotate.
That's easier said than done with the engine intalled....

There is hardly any room to hold your finger in there due to the lines behind the sensor.

If you gently line the sensor wheel up, and slowly install it into the cam, it shouldn't rotate.

Originally Posted by c130aviator
I didnt pull the sensor because the coolant lines were in the way. But its not like this took me hours, I did it in probably 5 minutes. Anyone can, you just need to be sure that line is where it should be when you get the thing back on. I dont have all those other sensors in the way on that side of the motor however. The turbo swap pretty much cleared off that whole side of the motor for a cleaner engine bay.




Also be sure and catch that residual oil in the housing with a rag under the sensor when you pull it, otherwise you will have a dollar sized oil puddle under the car and have you thinking something is wrong.
This. It can get messy.

I let the bitch drain out onto a rag before I installed the housing.
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 03:14 PM
  #61  
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From: st.charles mo
Yes i pull the sensor out and make sure its still lined up.ive even just tried putting ut in just one.hex off both directions and still it just starts then dies.
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 03:18 PM
  #62  
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We replaced the Thermostat on my friends gf's LSJ and he took off the sensor. Didnt know it needed to be timed and they quoted 893$ at a GM Dealership for the labor.
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 03:54 PM
  #63  
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hey bandit have you replaced the crank sensor
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 04:00 PM
  #64  
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Did this recently, took me 20 min, thought it woulda been harder
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 07:15 AM
  #65  
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by leemanfor
We replaced the Thermostat on my friends gf's LSJ and he took off the sensor. Didnt know it needed to be timed and they quoted 893$ at a GM Dealership for the labor.
Fyi

U don't need to time it if you only remove the sensor.

Its when you remove the entire housing timing is required.
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 08:29 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Staged07SS
Fyi

U don't need to time it if you only remove the sensor.

Its when you remove the entire housing timing is required.
yeah we took the whole thing off. I told him it probably needed to be timed but we were running out of daylight/warmth on Sunday.
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 02:46 PM
  #67  
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From: st.charles mo
Originally Posted by mrbelvedere
hey bandit have you replaced the crank sensor
yes i replaced the crank sensor when i put the new motor in and iv driven 250 miles on the new sensor with no problems.
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 02:52 PM
  #68  
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From: KY
try and see if it will run off of starting fluid
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 06:15 PM
  #69  
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From: Port Perry
^^^^ please dont do that. A big risk.
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 06:33 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by jp1600
Did this recently, took me 20 min, thought it woulda been harder
Damn. Took me forever! Had to remove that big coolant line, moved my fusebox ( ) and had to grind down a bit of the new sensor to get it to fit in. Hell it took me forever just to find the elsensor im not very mechanically inclined
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 07:28 AM
  #71  
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by riceburner
Damn. Took me forever! Had to remove that big coolant line, moved my fusebox ( ) and had to grind down a bit of the new sensor to get it to fit in. Hell it took me forever just to find the elsensor im not very mechanically inclined
oh man.... u did a hell of a lot more work than needed to do this.
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Old Feb 26, 2020 | 12:12 PM
  #72  
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From: Red Lion Pa.
Cam sensor timing

Originally Posted by 07_Red_SS/SC
Sounds honestly like you are a bit off with your cam hex. When mine was way off(180* out) it would try to start but then just have crazy loud back fires. I would check again the cps, and I would also check the timing once again of the cams themselves. The car will run with them being a tooth off.
mine starts hard sometimes and a real small back fire once in a while. Any ideas ???
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