compression tested
i did a compression test today,
1-225
2-225
3-220
4-217
is that good
07 ss/sc 52k on it.
looked in to see the pistons and did see a little oil on pistons is the normal.
car runs great, just did it cuss i was bored and needed to chang the plugs so fig i would do it and see the results.
1-225
2-225
3-220
4-217
is that good
07 ss/sc 52k on it.
looked in to see the pistons and did see a little oil on pistons is the normal.
car runs great, just did it cuss i was bored and needed to chang the plugs so fig i would do it and see the results.
mine was worm dry crank as the car sat for a hour or so. i thought something was wrong, so i called gm serves and they said that's really good like new. worm test is how they would do it too. he said that's cuss it take time to get everything ready for the test. oh and that was with WOT. he said that i should do a leak down test to make sure the valve seats are good as well. and that the little bit of oil that i see on the pistons is normal.
Last edited by Cobalt ss/sc Jake; Mar 6, 2013 at 06:40 AM.
i did a compression test today,
1-225
2-225
3-220
4-217
is that good
07 ss/sc 52k on it.
looked in to see the pistons and did see a little oil on pistons is the normal.
car runs great, just did it cuss i was bored and needed to chang the plugs so fig i would do it and see the results.
1-225
2-225
3-220
4-217
is that good
07 ss/sc 52k on it.
looked in to see the pistons and did see a little oil on pistons is the normal.
car runs great, just did it cuss i was bored and needed to chang the plugs so fig i would do it and see the results.
an engine can pass a comp test but fail a leak down
wrong
there really aint no help other then replacing the pistons, i know u had something about replacing the rings but id have to hone the sleeves to do that and by the time I do all that I may as well buy new pistons, and if I buy new pistons I may as well sleeve the block and you get my point lol.
there really aint no help other then replacing the pistons, i know u had something about replacing the rings but id have to hone the sleeves to do that and by the time I do all that I may as well buy new pistons, and if I buy new pistons I may as well sleeve the block and you get my point lol.
Last edited by mrbelvedere; Mar 6, 2013 at 10:07 AM.
Alot of different thoughts in here....
GM spec is over 100psi and within 10% of the average. This spec is used on everything I have seen and it is just a guideline.
Some people have different numbers for many reasons. Mostly gauge difference's. They are just like dyno's but even worse because no one ever gets a compression gauge calibrated.
Engine temp does affect readings, so does engine wear.
As long as your numbers are all close to each other you should be fine, if you feel they are low try a different gauge before tearing the engine apart.
GM spec is over 100psi and within 10% of the average. This spec is used on everything I have seen and it is just a guideline.
Some people have different numbers for many reasons. Mostly gauge difference's. They are just like dyno's but even worse because no one ever gets a compression gauge calibrated.
Engine temp does affect readings, so does engine wear.
As long as your numbers are all close to each other you should be fine, if you feel they are low try a different gauge before tearing the engine apart.
Alot of different thoughts in here....
GM spec is over 100psi and within 10% of the average. This spec is used on everything I have seen and it is just a guideline.
Some people have different numbers for many reasons. Mostly gauge difference's. They are just like dyno's but even worse because no one ever gets a compression gauge calibrated.
Engine temp does affect readings, so does engine wear.
As long as your numbers are all close to each other you should be fine, if you feel they are low try a different gauge before tearing the engine apart.
GM spec is over 100psi and within 10% of the average. This spec is used on everything I have seen and it is just a guideline.
Some people have different numbers for many reasons. Mostly gauge difference's. They are just like dyno's but even worse because no one ever gets a compression gauge calibrated.
Engine temp does affect readings, so does engine wear.
As long as your numbers are all close to each other you should be fine, if you feel they are low try a different gauge before tearing the engine apart.
I only do these tests when something isn't right. Normally this is found right away by a compression test. But if you feel like doing a bunch of tests on a good engine, you might as well do a running compression test and I would also use a manometer to measure crankcase pressure and then back pressure in the exhaust.
My point is don't do more work than you have to, unless you are bored and just want to.
Ever taken an ASE test? This sounds like a question on one of them lol.
I only do these tests when something isn't right. Normally this is found right away by a compression test. But if you feel like doing a bunch of tests on a good engine, you might as well do a running compression test and I would also use a manometer to measure crankcase pressure and then back pressure in the exhaust.
My point is don't do more work than you have to, unless you are bored and just want to.
I only do these tests when something isn't right. Normally this is found right away by a compression test. But if you feel like doing a bunch of tests on a good engine, you might as well do a running compression test and I would also use a manometer to measure crankcase pressure and then back pressure in the exhaust.
My point is don't do more work than you have to, unless you are bored and just want to.
Ever taken an ASE test? This sounds like a question on one of them lol.
I only do these tests when something isn't right. Normally this is found right away by a compression test. But if you feel like doing a bunch of tests on a good engine, you might as well do a running compression test and I would also use a manometer to measure crankcase pressure and then back pressure in the exhaust.
My point is don't do more work than you have to, unless you are bored and just want to.
I only do these tests when something isn't right. Normally this is found right away by a compression test. But if you feel like doing a bunch of tests on a good engine, you might as well do a running compression test and I would also use a manometer to measure crankcase pressure and then back pressure in the exhaust.
My point is don't do more work than you have to, unless you are bored and just want to.
The resin I did the compression test was because I was bored and was changing the plugs anyway, so thought sense it's apart I might as well test it. I do drive my car purity hard, Not all the time. I like to do Burnouts occasionally, and take it to the red line at WOT in 2-3 gear. I hit the rev limiter wants in awhile, but not on purpose.
"manometer to measure crankcase pressure and then back pressure in the exhaust" is that easy to do, and does it take specialized tool. oh hell, I will Google "manometer" and how to.,,,
Thanks, Josh
Last edited by Cobalt ss/sc Jake; Mar 7, 2013 at 03:15 PM.
Originally Posted by Josh@ottp;6956486[B
]Ever taken an ASE test? This sounds like a question on one of them lol.[/B]
I only do these tests when something isn't right. Normally this is found right away by a compression test. But if you feel like doing a bunch of tests on a good engine, you might as well do a running compression test and I would also use a manometer to measure crankcase pressure and then back pressure in the exhaust.
My point is don't do more work than you have to, unless you are bored and just want to.
I only do these tests when something isn't right. Normally this is found right away by a compression test. But if you feel like doing a bunch of tests on a good engine, you might as well do a running compression test and I would also use a manometer to measure crankcase pressure and then back pressure in the exhaust.
My point is don't do more work than you have to, unless you are bored and just want to.
now you are just showing off with all of these fancy words and tests!!
I think what he's getting at is that if a car passes the comp test *and* is running like a champ, no reason to waste time doing a leakdown test as well. Of course if something was off and the comp test still passed, leakdown is certainly something worth doing to help diagnose a problem.
I think what he's getting at is that if a car passes the comp test *and* is running like a champ, no reason to waste time doing a leakdown test as well. Of course if something was off and the comp test still passed, leakdown is certainly something worth doing to help diagnose a problem.
I always change my oil when it's at 50% oil life. and use Royal Purple HPS 5-w30, and ZMAX oil treatment, And ZMAX fuel treatment, at every oil change,
The clutch slips a little wants in awhile, but only under hard pull, it's not really that noticeable. but the throw-out bearing is making a rattling noise when i let the clutch out. I can only hear it at idle. It sound like ****. I ordered a new "LSJ Trans with LSD", and a Clutchmasters stage 2 with trow-out bearing. it's just sitting in my shed till I have the time to drop it in.
So after I install the New Trans, the car should be performing at IT'S peak performance.
Yep I did. I am not going to tear my trans apart, for the price it would cost to do that. Just spend couple hundred more for new one, then just install it myself. BAM'.... new trans with LSD. and a stage 2 clutch with bearing.
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