daythecountrydied21

alright everyone well the swap is complete (hopefully).

one question, did any of you like scratch or put a very minor dent in the lamniova end at all or anything?
one of mine has a few little scratches and has one very small dent in it, you can't even see it, have to run your finger over it to know that it's there.
thanks guys

^^^ bump for this

qwikredline

not good. if the seal is intact and undamaged you should be okay, the cooling will not be perfect, but then neither is your install....lol

daythecountrydied21

the seal? which is the o ring and 2 brass rings? they're fine sealed on there, i figured that it would be fine cause 1, shaun said it would be fine and 2, the brass and o-rings kindve cover that area and stuff?
i've got one headache already lol, leaky tank, don't need to order new cores and start all over again.

Flatgod

iTrader: (1)

Ya I did both on the one. Getting them out is a bitch. I in no way damaged any seals though. I have not had any problems.

BlilBT

I use Distilled water & water wetter, But water does boil under pressure depending on the pressure supplied the Higher the boiling point, Our system aren't perfectly smooth which causes air bubbles, needless to say alot of people put tap water in their cars!
But here you might like this,

The boiling point of water is the temperature at which its vapour pressure equals the ambient pressure. The result of this is that bubbles of water vapour are able to form within a body of liquid water. (This in no way distinguishes it from the boiling point of any other liquid.) Thus the boiling point depends on the ambient pressure, and is higher than normal near the Dead Sea, and lower than normal at high altitudes. It even varies slightly with the weather, for which reason eggs should be boiled for a little longer during a hurricane. (Tornadoes are unlikely to affect the cooking conditions for long enough to make an appreciable difference.)

When a body of water has been heated to the boiling point of same, the effect of any further heat energy being introduced into it is no longer an increase in its temperature, but an increase in the rate at which the water turns into water vapour. The extra energy goes into overcoming the force of attraction between the water molecules that tends to keep the water in the liquid phase, and it is referred to as 'latent heat of condensation', since it is the heat that will be given up by water vapour when it condenses. Thus the boiling point is the highest temperature at which liquid water can exist under normal circumstances.

The constancy and general predictability of the temperature of boiling water makes it a useful medium for cooking: immersing a particular kind of food in it for a given period of time will generally lead to similar results. If this period of time is such that given your schedule your guests are likely to have fainted from inanition before the food has reached the desired state, you may consider using a pressure cooker. This retains some of the water vapour produced by the water boiling inside it, leading to an increase in pressure within the pressure cooker, which leads to an increase in the boiling point of the remaining water. The food is cooked at a higher temperature and is therefore ready more quickly. An alternative use, once popular in England, is to ensure that no life or vitamins remain in vegetables intended for human consumption. Another possible use would be making a decent cup of tea at high altitudes, but mountaineers tend to object to the extra weight.

Since the creation of vapour bubbles requires a force to be exerted against the surface tension of the inner water surface of the new bubble, they, like the bubbles in champagne and Fanta, cannot form without a nucleation point – an imperfection in the container, or a particle floating in the liquid – and it is therefore possible for pure water in a perfectly smooth container to enter a 'supercritical state' in which its temperature rises above boiling point because the water is physically unable to start boiling. The addition of a teaspoon of salt to a sample of water in this state can be entertaining.1 The addition of salt or another soluble material at an earlier stage can increase the boiling point of the water: substances dissolve because of the attraction of their molecules or ions to water molecules. This attraction increases the amount of energy required to remove water molecules from the solution.

Supercritical water can also be produced by heating it in a closed system under pressure and then allowing it to escape from that system. Doing this in the general direction of a turbine attached to a dynamo can be very useful. It is a more effective way of delivering energy than allowing the water to boil and then producing a jet of water vapour because the energy density by volume of the water is greater by far than that of the equivalent mass of steam.

This is also why our intercooler cap is a pressure release!

Tennpenn83

well... i was going to say exactly that, but i didn't want to go into that much detail lol

daythecountrydied21

bill idk if you've seen my threads but somethings wrong with my setup and idk what it is.
im ordering 2 new laminovas and the intake mani gasket and if that doesn't help me then i have no clue what i'll do. but lemme know waht you think about it bill.

cobalt ss/sc

why do you need to run the 1/4 bleeder for opion b?

qwikredline

to bleed air out of the system. Entrained Air makes the aftercooler system not work.

cobalt ss/sc

so the ic pump won't pump coolant through and push the air out?

If you use a reservoir with a vented cap or vent tube shouldn't the ic pump push the air out of the lines and then it would vent out

Flatgod

iTrader: (1)

I never hooked up the bleeder line when i did my install so today I pulled the cap off my H/E to see how much air it had in it. Was down about a half an inch after around 7000k, and I'm not even sure if i filled the H/E to the brim when i did my install. Needless to say fluid from the option b tank gravity fed into the H/E the instant i pulled the cap and topped it up. Then I just filled the option b tank again. The whole process literally took less then 1 min so I'm not even gonna bother with the bleeder line.

daythecountrydied21

Have fun failing.
Post your temps and I'd venture to say those of us with bleeder lines have better..
not to be a dick but john(qwikredline) has more experience than 99.9% of people on here, being as he had a hand in designing the system and everything, i'd suggest you take his word over your intuition. just my fyi.

cobalt ss/sc

why you say you will have lower temps? bleeder line just bleeds the air out from the h/e, if the resivor tank has a vented cap the pump will push coolant through along with the air and yes it will take longer to bleed the air out but it will finally bleed out.

If im wrong I want sombody to explain why that wouldn't work.

flash13brandon

You're gonna talk about someone else failing? Aren't you the one that can't even get your setup to work w/o breaking something? I still don't understand why you need a bleeder line if you have the extra coolant tank.

BlilBT

The vented cap only releases air & fluid if the PSI gets above 14 on option B & 5 psi Stock, this is to save it from blowing gaskets <<<<Just like a radiator cap does, Air bubbles form every time the fluid is moving thru the system whichs means not only when getting the air out from filling! Read the post I made above & you will see, that air is formed by inperfections & so on.... with that being said it means the system is always bleeding air all the time!
Please remember it is not a open system with vents tubes....it is a closed system & the vent is only used when the fluid has gone supercritical & has to go some where which is the Pressure release cap... Not a vent Tube, so the only time it bleeds out that cap is when it is forced too!

Flatgod

iTrader: (1)

I'm not as sadly concerned as to whether my system is down 100ml of coolant at any given point in time or if my AIT's are one degree hotter then yours which I'm confident to say they are not considering you confess to f#$king up your own install. Not to be a dick.

qwikredline

I think BlilBT gets it. I think DTCD21 finally gets it, as youth and enthusiasm eventually catches up to age and skill. Probably folks like BlilBT have to figure it out, and he has done a good job with his posts; as the ambients are so high where he lives maybe he gets smarter sooner, (he has to or fail maybe ) while folks like myself up in Canada and especially Saskatoon just dont have enough warm days to worry if they are not particular.

My last words on this subject are easy. The stock system has a 5 psi cap ( as BlilBT pointed out correctly) and this cap sometimes falls off the threads are so pathetic. As the option B reservoir is a Saturn engine coolant reservoir, it has a high pressure cap, because of what it is. But. 14 psi in the intercooler system would be defying science, the system isnt capable of generating that sort of pressure. And. No bleed = fail. That is all.

Flash you should get it. You dont. Read BlilBT.

flash13brandon

I did read Bill's post. But it's hard to relate to that because I'm not using the stock h/e or the redline tank. I have a CXR w/ just a extra coolant tank like Stu's. I don't have a bleeder line going to anything. The nipple on the top of the CX h/e is just there. Wouldn't the air escape from there if the pressure reaches x psi??

rico

ill be gettings stu's mod soon. i got a question tho i got my dual pass on and i wanted to know if i had mounted the hoses right. i have the line from the stock filler going into the middle of the dual pass is that correct or does not matter?

daythecountrydied21

didn't break a thing bud, bolt came loose when i was tightening the IM to the block, was about 5 in the morning running on no sleep, honest mistake.
bill and qwik pointed out the rest so i'll leave it at that.

just look at the GM instructions for it...i didn't use the stock so idk.
I can't see why it would pass through the filler neck and into the cold port of the dual pass plate though, it should be going from the h/e to the middle nipple. like i said, double check the diagram.
2ndly stus mod would be retarded for you imo, option b is what you'd want.

flash13brandon

Why would the extra tank be retarted? It can accomplish the same thing Option B can for less money and hold more coolant.

cobalt ss/sc

Im using zzp h/e with the stock one and I am also doing dual pass but i am doing stu's mod with the filler neck moved im asking do i still need a bleeder hose even though the stu's mod tank has a cap that is vented?

BlilBT

If you are doing the dual pass then just get the redline bottle with the correct hook ups from Crate engine depot, Again the way option B is designed it's a closed system! Moving the neck to a reservoir is Option B, but if you go thru all the trouble why not add the bleeder line... thats the easiest thing of the whole dual pass setup. Look at your cap now it's 5 psi, The option B is a 14 psi setup if you have that cap then it will be fine.... if there is no 1/4 inch line just add a NPT fitting to it!
The bleeder line on the reservoir is the (in) the 3/4 Hose is the (out) Creating a vacuum of sorts in Reservoir, This allows for air to be retained in the reservoir & fluid returned to the system. The cap only release when pressure is to high...letting it out the overflow tube that is cap activated. <<< This is the way Option B is designed to run with the dual pass, the only time this happens is when you are Low on fluid, Pump stops working,you have been running the the system Hard or Air is in the system creating more heat.
Just remember that GM doesn't always know what it's doing, but the air bleeding system was designed by some very smart people that know what they are doing!
From what I gather stu's setup is like running Option A whichs is fine.... but if you have a dual pass & H/E's & going to mount a bottle to replace the neck just simply put on the bleeder line as well it's the only thing your missing.

No it can't unless it also has a 1/4 fitting & a 14 psi Cap, Like I stated it's simply running Option A..... Option B is always bleeding air from the system, Option A does not!

daythecountrydied21

^^ what this smart man said lol

rico

so the line coming from the bottom into the middle of the dual pass then the one from the filler into the top? and one from the middle or the dual pass into the bottom of the dual pass with a t? and stu's mod is better than the option b i beleive

got a pic of the gm one?