fuel pump went out
I believe you mean this plate (labeled 'J'). I took this pic when I made my fuel pump rewire (black harness below). I didn't know it had enough room to take out the pump however. I hope I'm wrong!

This should really help the OP out as well...
Last edited by csementuh; Aug 30, 2010 at 11:23 AM.
ORLY?? I need to install the ZZP boost referenced fuel setup, and it requires modding the stock setup to remove a ball and spring to disable the stock regulator. If I could access that from the inside that would be fantastic... I know what you're talking about inside under the seat, I just didnt think there was enough room...
I believe you mean this plate (labeled 'J'). I took this pic when I made my fuel pump rewire (black harness below). I didn't know it had enough room to take out the pump however. I hope I'm wrong!

This should really help the OP out as well...
I believe you mean this plate (labeled 'J'). I took this pic when I made my fuel pump rewire (black harness below). I didn't know it had enough room to take out the pump however. I hope I'm wrong!

This should really help the OP out as well...
Supposedly the tank needs dropped for the BRFPS, but I don't see why if the entire pump and sending unit can be removed through the top like you're suggesting.
ZZP States...
"Option 2, manifold regulated fuel pressure.
-In this installation method, the factory regulator is bypassed. All other installtion is the same as option 1. This requires dropping the tank and bypassing the factory 60psi regulator as displayed in lower right slide show. Open canister and clip off zip ties holding the clips on the regulator. Then open regulator to expose ball and spring tab. Remove ball and spring tab, then clip fuel diverter back on. Re-install canister.
This method makes your fuel pressure start at ~42psi under full vacuum, and rise under boost. This requires PCM reprogramming."
ZZP States...
"Option 2, manifold regulated fuel pressure.
-In this installation method, the factory regulator is bypassed. All other installtion is the same as option 1. This requires dropping the tank and bypassing the factory 60psi regulator as displayed in lower right slide show. Open canister and clip off zip ties holding the clips on the regulator. Then open regulator to expose ball and spring tab. Remove ball and spring tab, then clip fuel diverter back on. Re-install canister.
This method makes your fuel pressure start at ~42psi under full vacuum, and rise under boost. This requires PCM reprogramming."
OK I just had my back seat out, and there is definitely no way to access the fuel pump or tank. The fuel pump wiring is under there, but nothing else. Unless there is a major year difference or it was a Redline difference or something, there is no way to get to the pump...
Last edited by csementuh; Aug 30, 2010 at 06:44 PM.
If you want a cheap and good fuel pump just get the Walbro GSS342. I just installed one the other day. They are 89 dollars at Summit.
Stock 2006+ Fuel pumps flow just as well, so you won't really gain anything, but it's probably cheaper than an OEM one.
If you have a 2004-2005 LSJ, the stock pumps are garbage and the Walbro would be a well bought upgrade.
You don't need to spend no 1000 dollars like someone said above or get a new canister.
Stock 2006+ Fuel pumps flow just as well, so you won't really gain anything, but it's probably cheaper than an OEM one.
If you have a 2004-2005 LSJ, the stock pumps are garbage and the Walbro would be a well bought upgrade.
You don't need to spend no 1000 dollars like someone said above or get a new canister.
Hey no prob, I just didn't want you to get your hopes up lol. Dropping the tank isn't a terribly hard process, it's just a little time consuming and it's dirty. Good luck!
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