yup

 

on stock motor parts stay away from nos.

 

wrong the stock stuff will handle it a 75 shot just fine gm offers a stage 3 with a 50 shot

 

A couple locals ran nitrous for for a long time and never had a problem. The motor will take it fine. Its all in the tune

 

This.

This will also get you very close to 300whp as well. Roel dyno'd 275whp and 300+wtq with GMS3 + 50 shot, and a non functioning intercooler pump.

 

wow. hmm... iv always heard build your motor before nitrous. il have to look into that. im sure you would have to get a spot on tune to run nos?

 

yea that is true if your gonna run enough nos to power the space shuttle

 

And, 100% of the time, the stage 2 car with nitrous will outrun the car that is just modded to 300hp. Powerband/tq curve > peak numbers.

 

thank you all for your responses, the world of tuners is much different than that of muscle cars so I came into it a little lost... but now I'm on day two and i have some more questions for you...

-after getting my car up off the ground for the first time I noticed the stock "manifold" is not a manifold at all... I don't see where replacing it is going to give me any great performance gain. Instead I've run a straight pipe (2.5) from the cat back and cut out the resonator. Opinions?

-can someone explain to me what an "otto tvs kit" is

-can someone recommend "the biggest baddest heat exchanger out there"

-to clarify I don't know what my budget is but I'm willing to save and want my build to last, currently I can handle about a grand/mo.

-more to come ty again.

 

P.s. build will also be a daily so nitrous is a negatory.

 

ding ding ding


-----------


OP,

Find a local dyno... go baseline you car before you do anything. Stick with that dyno from here on out.

 

The "otto tvs kit" is the OTTP TVS Kit.. OTT Stage 3 Kit - Over The Top Performance

The "biggest baddest heat exchanger out there" would probably be the Griffin, which is also from OTTP

 

My Cobalt was getting 20K+ a year and was on bottle for the better part of it. Proper setup is the key, and intelligent driving habits. An idiot can make a well put together car break, an educated, mechanically inclined person can make a heap run hard and stay together.

Stock manifold is cast iron and looks like a manifold, possible you have an aftermarket header on the car already?

 

yes from the top it looks like a manifold, but like a header when viewed from the bottom it has individual tubes that come off of the ports. I'm not saying I would get no power gain from aftermarket replacement, just not enough to be immediately worth my while.

 

thanks for clarifying that.

 

Can you consistently drive around town pushing nitrous? I don't want to be able to push a button and have 300 hp... i want to be able to push my gas pedal and have 300 hp. Know what I mean?

 

so can someone explain the importance of the dual pass? Cools intake air? and then?

 

You don't need that much power on a daily basis anyway. In stock form the car gets over the speed limit very easily. I'd rather have the power when I need it, and have a stock car that uses regular fuel and has normal injectors, idles smoothly, has midrange torque, etc for my daily use. Then I can open a bottle and push a button and outrun much faster cars. Just my thoughts though.

The dual-pass is nice because it gets the heated up coolant back out of the manifold in half the time, keeping cooler liquid in there to draw the heat out of the charge air. I make and sell the dual-pass plates if you are going to be in the market for one.

 

I ran a ported stock manifold for the entire time I was on the stock engine and never felt like it was a restriction. Yeah it isn't the best at high rpms or with big power, but it will support plenty if you open up the collector a little and smooth out the ports. Mine was cracked when I took it out and the CIA header was a great piece, but I did a bunch of other work so I can't say about power gains just due to the header vs. a modded stock manifold.

 

I live a little off the main path in Washington state... I take frequent drives up into uhh... lonely mountain roads and like to open it up. Thus my reason for consistent power. I do completely understand your argument for nitrous, just not in my particular case.

 

And I understand your argument. These cars are fun to drive like that, i've had it both ways, from fairly stock with spray to pistons/cams and decent power, still with spray for special occasions lol. If you are setting the car up for fun driving, get some decent rotors and good pads, some solid CAB's, and suspension before you try for a ton of power.

 

With the Griffin, ZZP single pass is what ive been told is the best setup... no dual pass option b or other secondary heat exchangers required.. its what im plannin to do soon!

 

Single pass > Dual pass, for sure.

 

GM Stage 3 can run a dry 50 shot controlled via the PCM

 

Best that I can reccomend is get this book
GM Performance Parts 88958686 - Ecotec 2.0 LSJ Power Book | SDParts - 1-800-456-0211

It tells you how to install Stage I, II, and III kits, as well as
how to build a 300 hp lsj.