Gm Stage 3 pulley
Yes, you should be fine ! The stock stage 2 pulley is 77.9mm and the stage 3 pulley is 76 mm. It's not alot smaller. But maybe it will add alittle more hp. I'm not too sure on how much you would actually feel in the power difference. A member here named rukkee (i think) is running the stage 3 pulley on a stage 2 tune. He would be able to answer any of your questions im sure..
Doesn't the stage 3 pulley rasie boost to 17.5? And would I be able to use the gm hub to go smaller to like a 2.8 nates or cobalt addiction pulley? Would it bolt right on like a stage 3 pulley in other words?
GM staged hub has the 4 bolt pattern. Stage 2 pulley (77.9) it is recommended to get the GM2 belt or an oversized tensioner pulley.
You need a 15mm open ended wrench, (I think that is the correct size, if that wont work I use a prybar) to get the tensioner loose, (you will use that to pry the tensioner down to get the belt off) if you still have the blue bolt on the pulley you need that tool, and be careful not to break the tool or bolt (I have before, if the dealer did the stage 2 they put lock tight on sometimes). And that is basically it. You will want to keep the belt on when you loosen the bolts on the pulley.
I would recommend changing to a cap head screw or something for the pulley bolts that wont be such a bitch to get off later, and you wont need a special tool to change it in the future.
I would recommend changing to a cap head screw or something for the pulley bolts that wont be such a bitch to get off later, and you wont need a special tool to change it in the future.
I noticed a difference in putting a S3 pulley on my basically stock Stage 2 car.
Check this out for comparison:
Chevy cobalt stage 3 vs chevy cobalt stage 2
Installation is a matter of pressing down on the tensioner and toward the firewall with your 15mm wrench. Once the tensioner bottoms out you will have enough slack to get the belt off. At this point, I like to tap the back of the wrench with a hammer just to make sure it wont slip off. I remove the belt by slipping a flat head screwdriver between it and the tensioner pulley.
Check this out for comparison:
Chevy cobalt stage 3 vs chevy cobalt stage 2
Installation is a matter of pressing down on the tensioner and toward the firewall with your 15mm wrench. Once the tensioner bottoms out you will have enough slack to get the belt off. At this point, I like to tap the back of the wrench with a hammer just to make sure it wont slip off. I remove the belt by slipping a flat head screwdriver between it and the tensioner pulley.
Last edited by Pyros777; Apr 13, 2009 at 02:17 PM.
Nah you good you didn't jack it. I wanna know also. Cuz the dealer put my stg2 kit on and didn't give me my stock pulley nor that tool. Also are they reg screws that can go in place of the blue screws? And how do I tighten the tensior back up?
It looks like a shock absorber. When you press down on it you relieve the tension by compressing it, thus moving the pulley downward away from the belt. When you take the pressure off of it, it goes back to its regular position, providing tension for the belt.
To get the tensioner back up you just push it back down, the same way you got it off, and put the belt back on. Make sure the belt did not come off any other pulley, (i.e. compressor) because you will shread your belt. It happened to me. lol
And I hate that the dealer did the same thing to me, they didnt give me **** back, so I had to purchase the tools for those crap blue bolts.
also where can i find the tool to take out the blue bolts?
now would it be ok to run a 2.8 on the gm canned tune for a while till i can get tuned?
Last edited by 07touringcoupe; Apr 13, 2009 at 06:45 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
These are the part numbers:
19158223 Wrench (MT2)
19158224 Wrench (MT2)
(from CED.com)
You might be able to get them at your local dealer. They don't show up on gmpartsdirect.com
The other obstacle you might have once you do have the proper tools will be whether the bolts were loc-tited or not. If they were, you may have to heat them to 400F with a torch in order to get them loose.
19158223 Wrench (MT2)
19158224 Wrench (MT2)
(from CED.com)
You might be able to get them at your local dealer. They don't show up on gmpartsdirect.com
The other obstacle you might have once you do have the proper tools will be whether the bolts were loc-tited or not. If they were, you may have to heat them to 400F with a torch in order to get them loose.
These are the part numbers:
19158223 Wrench (MT2)
19158224 Wrench (MT2)
(from CED.com)
You might be able to get them at your local dealer. They don't show up on gmpartsdirect.com
The other obstacle you might have once you do have the proper tools will be whether the bolts were loc-tited or not. If they were, you may have to heat them to 400F with a torch in order to get them loose.
19158223 Wrench (MT2)
19158224 Wrench (MT2)
(from CED.com)
You might be able to get them at your local dealer. They don't show up on gmpartsdirect.com
The other obstacle you might have once you do have the proper tools will be whether the bolts were loc-tited or not. If they were, you may have to heat them to 400F with a torch in order to get them loose.


