Everyone is saying go with this turbo, or go with that one, but no one is showing a mapped compressor map. Here is one I did a few months back with the GT3076. Bonus points go to whoever can tell me why I'm not gonna go with it.



It's mapped at 2 different boost levels. Neither of them work out at all. It would take a VE of well over 100% to make that turbo work, unless you changed some other things, like someone I know.

 

On garrett's site there is a reference of a 2.0 S.I motor using this turbo running a VE of 72%.

 

That GT3076R looks to be way to big. As its spooling it is almost on the bad side of the surge line. Also you arent really in the peak efficency island for very long. Just at redline.

I think this is Y the LAJ would be more benefical woth a GT28xx

 

This is a dyno chart for a 2.3 Ecopower motor from a SAAB that is using the GT3071R in it running at 6000FT Above sea level. This shows the that the GT3071 is still in the right range for this powerplant.

 

Steve, can't see the dyno pic

 

how bout you stop worrying about the type of turbo and start worrying about how your going to build the motor to handle the power.. jesus.. you dont need to be doing this.. your just gonna nuke yourself

 

Look man I'm not asking if my engine will handle it!! You don't need to worry, you don't have a cent into my car. I blow it up then oh well, build it bigger I really don't care. So if you don't want to help then don't post in my thread. I don't mean to come off as being rude or anything, I know what the engine will handle and it will be tuned correctly.

So the GT32 is way too big according to ATP Turbo. They said it wouldn't have full boost untill around 5000rpm on our engines. So the GT 28 series is looking really good.

 

How about now??

 

Yup, nice numbers. How much boost is that running and where does boost come on?

 

This is at WOT during high speed runs.

2700RPM in 2nd gear at 27PSI,
3300 in 3rd Gear at 28PSI
3500 in 4th and 5th at 30PSI.


Also look back at the video I am hosting here.... This is a GT3071 at 33PSI making 412WHP and just shy of 500BHP with forged internals.


GT3071R 33PSI

 

So that's a 2.3l, would this be a bit too big for a 2.0l? I'm looking to run 15-16psi for now and hoping that's around 320-330whp. I just want to make sure what I get has potential in the future once I change the rods and pistons,etc and won't lag too much.

 

how about im tired of reading blown up motor threads from people doing half-ass builds, and most of these half-ass builds are from other chiming in 2 cents worth of how to make more boost.. hell .. fine.. i dont give a ****.. be a typical ricer and blower your **** up, but i dont wanna here you nor anybody else crying when you could of taken more time to build a proper base.

ditto though.. ill await for the poppage

 

earlier remote mount turbos got some bad flak on 4 cylinders. This just isnt true at all. I happen to know a guy Andy from Jbom who has a remote mount turbo on his 01 Z24. I watched it do a dyno run, and on a stock block he managed 262WHP at 12 PSI i believe.

heres a video of the car accelerating, decide for yourself if you really think remote mounts arent worth it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R7kRqyYhkGU

you dont seem to understand engines and forced induction. People arent blowing there engines because the engine cant handle the power, people are blowing there engines because they are running ungodly high intake temperatures and pushing a pretty much stock fuel system far beyond its limits and design.

 

the GT3071R would be at the top of the limits of what I would run on your car unless you just bite the bullit and build the motor now. If you want a cheaper alternative that will give you 330-340WHP that wont cost an arm and a leg (and that you can sell on the saab boards for bank when you decide to upgrade) go with a TD04HL-19T. Or find a budget
TD04HL-15G from a Volvo for $200 (used) and have it rebuilt and worked to a 19T spec. That turbo would be a fast spooler (in the 2500RPM range) and take you at WOT and Full boost to redline in every gear.

This is a good site to hit up for some detailed info on VE of every different type turbo you can think of.

STEALTH316



Also Have a look at this site as well....

Mitsu Tubo Specs

TD04-19T MAP



GT28RS

 

Oh, so now my build is going to be halfass? Where did you come up with this? I didn't say I was expecting to get 400whp on the stock bottom end! I'm not cranking up the boost till the internals are done. No big deal, 320whp on stock engine will be ok. If not then oh well!

 

unless i interpreted that wrong..

plus i see only turbo talk.. no internal talk.. and you still ask my why i am worried how your building.. im not arguing to be an ass.. im trying to make damn sure your not gonna hate yourself down the road

 

I have a simple solution....... Dont read the threads?????? Short simple and effective.

I think the thread starter is asking valid questions here. Looking for the best sized turbo to build a streetable car around to get to a predescribed power level. I think also he is aware of the fact that supplemental issues have to be addressed along the way too. So sit back and take a chill pill man.


I think what you are seeing is the same with any car community where there are learning curves of boosting an engine that was not factory produced with boost (from a turbo). Tuning is the most important thing you can do. Managing A/F ona wideband, EGT's, Intake temps are all keys to a safe and effective setup. Add in Water/Meth injection and you increase your chances of boosting more with less worry of detonation on stock internals or forged internals.

 

yea.. thats it.. and thats why i read "i blew up my motor, time for 10.5:1 CR"

i know much more about FI motors then you maybe believe(currently building a 331 turbo), all i see is +boost on the forum ... i dont see a single person other then a few people actually doing a correct build... as this whole thread.. "i want a 500hp motor, what do i need"... responces.. ALL +BOOST responce except for me..... right...

hell ditto then.. ill delete all my posts in here and ill let you motor heads take over then..

 

If you go back and read the thread in whole you will see that me and alot of others are telling him a turbo that will suport him both pre internals build up and post internals build up.

The internals in this engine are capable of handling 350BHP without being touched so by specing a turbo that will go with that and then some he is actually planning out his build quite well.

 

if thats the case then great, but "pre-internal" built doesnt tell me what items are going to be used.. you see what im getting at... everybody is focused on the turb alone and nobody has even bothered to make sure what compression ration/type of piston/rings/rods are going to be used... wouldnt you wanna know that first...i would

can i atleast see a list of interals you are planning to go with please?

im not arguing to argue guys.. i just dont want to see another member have to dish out money b/c of not getting proper advice.. is this not why we are here for multiple answers... dont shun the person that might save your butt one day

 

Sorry about that.......



Do you have an idea of your engine management strategy yet? I am not sure 100% of the tuning options on the Cobalt side of things but you may want to look into a system like the SDS Fuel management system to aid in fueling based on boost.


From the looks of it there seem to be some other tuning options out there to handle most of the tune and build.


Also what type manifold do you plan on running tubular or log style?


This may be a good place to start when you decide to look at the internals of the motor by the way.....


LSJ Ecotec Performance Build BOOK PDF's

 

Just wanted to thank you for your help! Oh I've got meth injection right now too.

 

No problem man.... check out the build books in the post right above yours. They will give you part numbers and specs on forged internals and build levels.

 

I do plan on doing forged rods and pistons(lower cr), etc. I'm very good at the tuning aspect and will not have any issues there. The manifold on ebay, the only one I can find is a log style turbo.

 

Only thing that sucks is the log style will sacrifice some flow but as long as you port match the manifold to the head you should not lose to much efficiency out of it. The other thing is log style is probably the best for space too.


Just a fore thought is to have EGT bung welded in the 2 of the runners of the manifold a the usually placed on Cyl 1 and 4 to get true EGT's from the motor. But I am sure I am not telling you anything you dont already know.