Yeah I do plan on getting a EGT gauge too. So do I want a internal or external wastegate?

 

IF you are going to run high boost my preference is external since you can do spring changes and they dont suffer from creep as much as an internal. Plus there is also the bling factor of an external.... lol!!



A Tial 38mm or 42mm should do the trick and be nice and adjustable for you. Be prepared to drop $250-$350 on an external gate. The other thing to look at is are you going to go atmospheric or closed loop bypass system? My guess is atmospheric dump...since its the better option in most high boost situations.

On the EGT gauge there are lots of options but if you are trying to stay on a budget look at this gauge setup.

GLOWSHIFT EGT



The gauge runs $89 for a single probe setup and is a pretty good quality gauge for the money.

 

Does the GT3071 come without a wastegate option?

 

So for now I could run 16-18psi on an internal wastegate? Do most turbos come with the internal wastegate? Also I was planning on atmospheric dump, but I heard there were tuning issues because the PCM freaks out when it bleeds since we have MAF sensors.

 

Ok to answer both questions......



First yes you can get the GT3071 with an internal or external gate.


ATPTURBO



Ok on to the dump valve issue.. There is a valve that seems to be working on the MAF'ly challenged SAAB's and V'dubs as well. It is a twin piston Forge 004 diverter valve. It vents about 40% to the air and recirculates the remainder thus keeping the MAF and ECU happy.





As for running internally gated up to 15-16PSi you should not have an issue at all. If you want some added security Forge also makes an upgraded actuator you can use that will run on a system pushing 25PSi no problem.

This is an example of what it looks like... it has a spring kit as well to adjust bleed off pressure.



For your turbo needs here is another one you may want to look at. This is speced for a Mitsubishi Eclispe as a direct bolt on. and will support 440BHp and is internally gated.


Price should hit you around $850 or so for a new unit.



BLOUCHE TURBO




This sneaky-Pete is stock appearing on the outside and all business on the inside. Featuring the 44 lb/min performance of the TD06 20G compressor wheel and a clipped TD05H turbine wheel in a 7cm2 nozzle area turbine housing, this turbo comes on hard and will set you back in the seat. To reduce boost creep, the turbine housing must be ported and is included in the price of the turbo. If your engine/application is heavily modified, Blouch Turbo recommends an external gate configuration to maintain proper boost control or upgrading to the TD06H high flow turbine wheel to reduce exhaust manifold/turbine housing backpressure. The Eclipse TD05H-20G is based upon a brand new genuine Mitsubishi turbo direct from Mitsubishi Turbo North America and requires no modification (internal gate version) to intake, exhaust, oil and coolant connections for installation.

 

Yeah its a pretty serious turbo and you will be racing from a roll almost always but man it is a fund ride to say the least. My brother and I fitted this turbo onto a 4speed automatic starion with lots of internal work done and it was awesome. On the road just cruising you could bust the tires loose at 40mph no problem.

You may be right on the 16G super being the better choice there for streetability too.

 

Damn! So many different choises! What's me best bet on a budget? I want to get a turbo with a internal wastegate for now.

 

Nice Denny!!


Ok blackss/sc .. if you are going to grab something that will work well and be on the cheaper end of things then go to this turbo....


Turbocharger - Garrett T3/T4E, 50trim compressor, Quick Spooling Stage II wheel with T3, 4 Bolt (2.5") discharge 63AR or 5 bolt Ford style .48 A/R, 400+HP

ATP Turbo --- T3/T4E 50 Trim




Talk to them on internally gating it for you and then go from there.

This will be a $695 dollar turbo new..... or you can go with Denny's suggestion and find a 16G from a DSM guy used and then rebuild it and go from there.

I may be able to get you a discount with ATP by the way since my boy is a ATP dealer.

 

subscribed, intersting thread.

 

The only reason I have not posted which turbo to use and it's map is because it changes so much with the application. We now know what he wants and what his goals are. As long as the plotted points don't exceed the surge limit and function within the island for most of the powerband it is a viable turbo at X RPM and X PSI.

I know you know that, I'm just saying this as just because the exducer bore is a little larger (GT30) does not mean that it wouldn't be a good match as ALL of the parameters have an effect on selection not just the exducer bore size.

Edit: I mentioned a few pages ago that it would work okay to use a GT35 for a 24psi setup. The trims on both compressor and turbine side changed the compressor map allowing for the boost to reach full pressure through most of the powerband. You could see the setup would lag down low however, which is why I didn't post the map and recommend the turbo. Like I said earlier the only way we can recommend a specific turbo is if we know what numbers the person is looking for.

 

YaY, another 1g guy who kept the stock maf {well stockish i should say}


on a 2.0 liter, a big16g is capable of producing over 400 to the tire. it's not happy when you do this, but can be done.

i still suggest the 35r. thats just me

 

I personally think this would be a good turbo for the threadstarter. These are very potent, work well, in my experience reliable, less in cost. I looked at the compressor map and it looks like a good fit as well.

They would work. One of them that I plotted last night did not clip the surge line, and was in or around maximum efficiency between 4,000RPM to 7,000RPM. That turbo would have some lag but if you are wanting a strip setup that would change.

 

I think the T3/T4 seems right up my ally.

 

AND would have some room to grow into it as well. for a later date when then full build satan rebirth hell on wheels act took place

 

Is there anything else I need to look since I'm at a higher altitude?

 

A/f ratio is EXTREMELY key for you if you are at altitude. You are subject to lean conditions and detonation due to the reduced Oxygen content in the air. Who ever tunes the car needs to really work on the fueling to boost mapping. You also need to be more aware of your EGT's since the lean conditions can cause super high egt's.


If you go on http://saablink.net and PM a guy named JZW he can tell you all about high altitude turbo charging since he is in Denver at over 5000+ feet.


By the way the Dyno plot with the GT3071R that I posted is his car at altitude.

 

I will look into that, I'll be tuning the car myself too. Just wanted to make sure I didn't need a different setup for my altitude. I'm only at 2200feet though.

 

whit the hp tuner i would desable the maf and install a 2 or 3 bar map sensor
maybe you already have it on the cobalt supercharger

no need fo maf sensor on a turbo car

and the external wasgate would be easyer to tune and whit the tail wasgate you could run fron 3 to 25 psi depending on size 38 to 46 mm of the wasgate whit just changing the sprng inside

 

There is a GM 3 bar sensor we could use.

How high of an altitude are you at? If you're high enough it would even affect turbo selection because the atmospheric pressure calculates into the pressure ratio.

 

Factory you use a 2.5 Bar MAP sensor

 

Since the LSJ VE table only runs to 210kpa, you cant even tune for the 2.5 bar thats on the car. You could switch to a 3 bar and rescale it so the car only thinks its a 2 bar and run it that way. You would have to purposely scale it wrong, kinda like a Jbody fake 2 bar tune, but it is possible to run a 3bar. djt81185 is thinking about doing this cause he has better results with a speed density setup than a MAF one especially now since he did a turbo swap.

 

Yeah that's what I was thinking. We've had to do that before on other cars.

 

LMFAO let me guess who gave me negative rep for, "no supporting facts for argument" in this thread. im gonna take a stab at it and say the kid that thinks 500hp on the m62 is easier than 500hp on the turbo, just a guess. Bro i said make a new thread if you want to argue it and you can do just that and look like an idiot when i bombard you with information you won't understand. Don't give me negative rep because i was trying to keep this thread on topic. What a bitch move.

 

Or you could also go the hard way and install a standalone engine management system on the car. There are lots of systems out there to use and you can range in budget from slim to expensive.


At 2200Ft you should not have too much issue with the altitude at all though.

 

+1 and you are right 2200 ft is really not that high. Most places aren't at sea level, you would be surprised how elevated some places are that you would never expect. I really wouldn't worry about elevation too much at only 2200 ft...you only really need to worry about it when you are at a significantly high level above sea level.