I tried the cleaner on my throttle body but it didn't correct my problem. it still flex's in rpm's but the only difference is that it stops after about 5 or 10 seconds vs never stopping. idk if this is the main or only issue but im getting TERRIBLE gas mileage. is there any ideas on what else to check or reasons for this gas mileage issue? i also was advised to switch my intake filter cause maybe its not getting proper air flow?
thanks in advance

 

I was having this trouble also and like many of us I couldn't figure it out as the damn dealershiT couldn't find a code or a problem. Their solution was to clean the fuel injectors, which unknown to the dealer, were brand spanking new ZZP injector and had been in the car for 185 miles. Upon taking apart the intake system( cai typhoon) cleaned the filter itself, the maf and sci sensor along with the tb and the small breather hole on the tb. The car is right now and idles right were it should with no weird surges or roughness. If you have just cleaned the tb and not the sensors I would suggest doing a complete cleaning of the entire intake system before beating your head against a brick wall. The catch can theory will be tested once I get the can in place and I'll let you know if it prevents a recurrance.

 

alright ill try that. thanks

 

hmm this makes perfect sense. my idle only drops low when im braking in neutral, once i stop it kinda slowly goes up and down then its all good. also when i just tap the gas in neutral it drops too.

but hot damn! this sounds easy, giving it a shot tomorrow!

also food for thought, it wouldn't hurt to grab one of those 'dry flow' filter covers, for those with aftermarket systems. theyre SUPPOSED to keep water and **** out.. idk 100% about the water but it should definately help.

im gonna look into an oil catcher too..

 

yup this method most certainly fixed my idle issue! i didn't even clean it that good!

 

Yup, figured this out a year or so ago. 40k miles on the car (35k when I got it) and had idle problems and the damn cruise quit working, cleaned the TB good and fixed it, 3k later same thing, cleaned it and fixed it for a few more miles. finally quit fixing it. Finally the exhaust came apart in the flex piece before the cat and I got the dealer to replace the whole downpipe, cat and o2 under the recall for the cat. 8k miles now and still no problems with idle or cruise. offhand tho, I goofed apparantly putting the intake boot back on it the last time I cleaned it before the dealer got it and rolled the lip up on the bottom side and didnt know it. straitened that out when I changed the oil after the dealer fixed the other piece. I dont know if it was leaking or not or if it had anything to do with my issues but could have been.

 

i just got my balt a few months ago. would this cause a lingering lean code?

 

I recently purchased some CRC throttle body cleaner and started to use a lil bit until i read the directions which said that it was not to be used on supercharged engines. Anyone know why this might be? I know i tried their maf cleaner and it worked like a charm.

 

I think that has more to do with cleaning by just spraying it into the intake tract with throttle body still attached. You should really clean it with the throttle body away from the car.

 

definitely this

 

Cleaning the throttle body and changing your filters every so often is the best thing ever for your car

 

I did mine with a new MAF, clean K&N filter, and now the car idles ok but holds above 1200ish after you push the clutch in until it stops...

 

yea i did the same thing and now im having the same problem. like, i stop and it just holds revs for no reason. idk i cleaned my tb perfectly, brand new filter as well. vacuum lines?

 

throttle body failure is common on our cars. Some years of the Colorado had the same issue because it uses the same throttle body. You just have to get a new one in some cases (like mine )

 

LS4 tb Inc then

 

too touchy and too tricky to tune

 

THank yyou SOOO MUCH THIS problem Was pissing me off bad!!!!!
But as soon as i read this i went straight to my car and did it. As soon as i turned it on i felt the difference BIG TIME!!!!! it never turned off!!!
AGAIN!!!! THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I have been having idle problems for a long time, My car would rev up and down just to stay alive, and would often stall. I have the stage 2, injen intake, headers downpipe high flow cat and cat-back exhaust. I cleaned out my throttle body then reinstalled it and boom, problem solved.

 

I was reading about misfire codes in the shop service manual. Heres something interesting.

It uses the crank position sensor to detect misfires by looking for unsteady revolutions.
If your seeing your rpm bounce some, chances are so is the PCM and after so many
bounces/ seconds, I forget, it can give you a misfire code.

If its bouncing only in the same spot, IE: When cylinder X is on power stroke,
it will throw code P030X
but if it bounces on diffrent spots, it will throw P0300.
Also if the crank position sensor is going out, It will also throw code P0300

 

I was reading this last night as I had made an appointment with my dealer to take a look at my car because it seemed to be boging down low in first take off and shift to 2nd. Seems to only do it when I have a full tank of gas and drives great and normal when I have a little under a half to almost empty. Very weird. I had this with my focus and they said it was software updates. I didn't know any better and said that must be the case. But I bet they just cleaned my tb, intake, and sensors lol. I took it this morning to the dealership and they basically told me if it doesn't have a check engine light on there is nothing they can do. Like WTF? Don't people know how to work on cars anymore? No mechanics anymore just computer nerds lol, what ever happen to process of elimination. Well I'm going to take my **** off and try this to see if it fixes anything. I mean the car doesn't have these idle problems thats I'm hearing some have but it just seems to bog down low in first and second and I seem to be getting some hesitation going into second and it just isn't the same, you know? Like when I have the radio on and its doing it sometimes it seems like a bitch taking off from a light almost like i'm going to kill it. Although I'm driving it the exact same as if it had under a half a tank and was getting better throttle response which equals smoother shifts and better gas mileage. I'll give this a try when I get a chance and get back to you guys.

 

thanks for this info and I wil be getting / doing this on the coming weekend!

 

It kinda sounds like somethin to do with ur evap system. Not 100 % but I think that might be it cuz ur fuel tank vents in to the intake. I would try letting it vent to the atmosphere and capping the port on the TB and see wat happends.

 

Dude, I have had it with my car and these Idle Issues! I never had these Issues UNTIL I Installed my 2.7, 60lbs Injectors, etc. and now when I push in the clutch at a stop the Idle drops down to like 500 RPM's and then Flutters to 1,500 RPM's then Back down to around 800 RPM's and Holds at 800 RPM's, It also Bogs from 1st gear to 2nd gear until I hit around 3,000 RPM's....WTF! I'm gonna try cleaning the TB this weekend and see if that Helps.

 

Ok, mine was only dipping at idle when you first came to a stop. Would almost die for a sec. Was excited to clean tb, did it tonight. Now it does not die or idle way down anymore but holds about 1500 till you come do complete stop then drops to 800 and stays there perfect. TB was very gunked up, very very gunked up. Used whole can of cleaner. Even going down the road if you step in on the clutch it holds 1500 till you stop. This mean the tb is bad?
Also now the the mileage is bad. Something must have happened to the tb while cleaning. Oh and it lost 10 mph on the hwy.

 

Do we need to disconnect our Batteries BEFORE we clean the TB? I was told by someone that we need to Disconnect the Battery or cleaning the TB would be pointless, Is this True?