2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

Idle problem CURE!!!!!!!! Finally!!

Old 08-18-2008, 09:57 PM
  #176  
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I also tried this fix today (05 SS S/C 68000 miles) and it did the trick. I am having the issue that a few others mentioned though where it hangs around 1500 before it drops back down. I'll drive it more tomorrow and see if it fixes itself. The TB was totally caked in black ****... I used about 3/4 can of TB cleaner to get it all off. Otherwise yeah it looks like this did the trick.
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Old 09-05-2008, 12:26 AM
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downshifting, neutral, and gas usage.

Originally Posted by rnjmur View Post
I don't know the specifics on how the decelleration fuel cut-off works with downshifting, but I don't know that it would help at all. If you use the downshifting to slow yourself down you may actually hurt your gas mileage. Fuel cut-off is typically enabled above a certain RPM i.e. above 1800 RPMs fuel cut-off is enabled. It is then disabled once you get below 1200 RPMs. So above 3K there would still be fuel cut-off. However, the fuel doesn't necessarily cut off immediately, I am sure there is some kind of delay like maybe a second or so before it actually cuts off.
yea, ur right depending on the car the fuel cutoff is different. next time you put the car in neutral and coast to a stop, watch where the rpms drop to, and then hang at for a slight second before going to idle but you'll see it stay around 1100 1200 or so for a tiny bit. this is the cutoff point, where the ECM monitors the engine load (none, neutral) and rpm (getting low, fuel is needed.) and decides to start injecting fuel. it then realizes it doesn't need to use much fuel, and it slowly lowers afr to proper idle amount. sort of like catching an egg, you got to catch it and move with the momentum smoothly before it gets to its destination, or it'll break.

you can't notice fuel cutoff anyways. if your foot isn't on the gas at moderate to high rpms, you're not suppling gas. you're sucking air in, compressing it, and pushing it out yes but no gas goes in so no ignition or combustion. neutral lets the car coast farther yes because you're avoiding that air compression by being disengaged with the engine. however, coasting at idle uses gas!

ya'll go ahead and pop it into neutral if you won't be idling for long before you stop or get back in gear. if not, keep it in high gear until 25 mph or so, you won't bog down @ 1000rpms just pop it out of gear b4 you do.

downshifting uses no fuel so long as ur above the rpm where fuel is needed for a sustained running engine (idle, 750 but kicks in sooner so to avoid stalling or rough idle, see shitty egg analogy above lmao) and you're not on the gas.

only revmatching on downshifts hurts ur gas, unless the driver pulls the clutch out slowly each gear without gas, which is awful for your clutch. either way downshifting = less gas efficient, or clutch wearing. pick your poison.
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Old 09-09-2008, 10:04 PM
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Weird thing, I tried this trick and it did nothing for the fluttering idle, but its been helping with gas mileage. I dont know why it helped everybody but me.... I cleaned it till it was spotless and shiny.... weird, W/E i can deal w/ it.
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Old 09-13-2008, 12:29 AM
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going to try this tomarrow and new plugs let you know!!
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Old 09-13-2008, 12:31 AM
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The idle problem is mostly caused by a flaw in the tuning. There are different idle spark tables, and fuel tables and those result in crap idling.

Ask some that I have tuned recently.....it goes away.
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Old 09-13-2008, 12:50 AM
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Why why why why why the **** are these cars having so many drivability problems? My axles have been changed twice now and they are still clicking. WTF?!
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Old 09-13-2008, 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnnySasakiMGS View Post
Why why why why why the **** are these cars having so many drivability problems? My axles have been changed twice now and they are still clicking. WTF?!
I went through 3 axles.......broke them all. The biggest problem is when you get Stage 2 on the 07s. They stall and have a very jumpy idle then it gets worse with the AC on. It will give you a heart attack sometimes because it does it so bad that the car shakes.
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Old 09-14-2008, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Psykostevo View Post
I went through 3 axles.......broke them all. The biggest problem is when you get Stage 2 on the 07s. They stall and have a very jumpy idle then it gets worse with the AC on. It will give you a heart attack sometimes because it does it so bad that the car shakes.
So what might resolve this problem then? Getting a custom tune?
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Old 09-14-2008, 07:40 AM
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damn im having misfire problems and we cant figure out what it is, im going to have to try this
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Old 09-14-2008, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Psykostevo View Post
I went through 3 axles.......broke them all. The biggest problem is when you get Stage 2 on the 07s. They stall and have a very jumpy idle then it gets worse with the AC on. It will give you a heart attack sometimes because it does it so bad that the car shakes.
its even worse with a lightened flywheel
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Old 09-14-2008, 01:02 PM
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My car has had a idle misfire since it had the stage tune flashed 2 years ago (the car was 3 months old 7k miles) . The local dealer and i have tried everything short of opening up the motor. I have a great idle , and it's never set a code. It's just annoying as hell to watch it on a tech2 misfire graph. Very random , and it's never missed under load. I think it's in the GM tune myself.

Last edited by rukkee; 09-14-2008 at 11:37 PM.
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Old 09-14-2008, 05:19 PM
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Mine keeps saying multiple cyl misfire and it runs idles and drives fine. cant figure it out. hoping this is it
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Old 09-15-2008, 10:29 AM
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is there anything you have to know when putting it back on? trq specs, gaskets, nething like that?
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Old 09-24-2008, 05:41 PM
  #189  
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Just did this last night..

38k miles..

Made a HUGE difference. Big thank you to the OP!!!!

Def worth it. Only took 20 mins and 3 dollars for the throttle body cleaner!
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Old 10-17-2008, 01:00 PM
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Cleaned my throttle body out 3 nights ago. What a diff. it made. I only have 15,000+ miles on my car, but it was pretty gummed up. I tried this, because for a couple of weeks my car has felt pretty sluggish on a 2nd gear pull and it was drivin me nuts that the power wasn't coming on instantly like it used to. You don't have to take the throttle body off to clean it properly. All I did was take my upper intake duct off, sprayed some approved throttle body cleaner on a rag (some cleaners don't work on F.I. cars), and manually oppened the throttle plate and cleaned behind and around it. It looked brand new when I was finished !!! Props to the guy who started this thread ....

I also wanted to add something that I have seen a lot of on this site about the crappy 07' GM Stage tunes. I have an 07' and I have had the Stage tune on my car for over a year now with no problems. In my Stage kit instructions at the very end when the dealer has to download the tune there is a list for all the SS/SC and Ion RL years. The 07's need to have a diagnostic table downloaded along with the tune due to the difference in the stock 07' tune vs. 05' and 06's tune. I bought my Stage 1 kit from the dealer and it included the updated instructions with the right part number to download for the 07' tune. I then purchased the Stage 1 to 2 upgrade kit from Crate Engine Depot and the instructions didn't even list the 07' model year in them. Maybe some of you who have 07's had the older set of instructions with your Stage kits and the dealership downloaded the 05' - 06' tune. Hope this helps.

Last edited by Staged07SS; 10-17-2008 at 02:55 PM.
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Old 10-17-2008, 03:21 PM
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For those who are still wanting to do this, I posted a how to, just waiting for the mods to approve it...I have pics and vids of how the car runs after the tb was cleaned....I think this is a must at least every 15K miles.
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Old 10-17-2008, 04:40 PM
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I agree with every 15000 miles !!!
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Old 10-17-2008, 04:41 PM
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^after doing this to my car, my throttle position sensor failed... hahah got a new throttle body out of it!
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Old 10-19-2008, 09:26 PM
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I just wanted to say that I stumbled across this thread and was having the same issues as the OP since last December. My rough idle wasn't bad enough to cause it to stall out but it was very embarassing at stoplights and made the ride quite jerky.
To make a long story short I got some throttle body cleaner and removed my throttle body as recommended here. It wasn't clean on the inside and had some grease in it but by no means did it look bad enough to be causing my problems. However, after thoroughly cleaning it and buttoning it up I took the cobalt for a spin and it was a completely different car. First off it idled smoother at startup and when coasting with the clutch depressed. Also it had much better low end power that hadn't been there for so long I forgot it even existed. This made my upshifts a lot smoother, especially 1 to 2, because before it would bog a lot and then lurch forward. This was bad enought in the past that I thought I was having clutch issues. Overall acceleration seems pretty much unchanged especially on the top end but below 2500 rpm you can really tell the difference.
The change that i have felt is way too noticeable to be due to wishful thinking, however, we will see how long it lasts. Hopefully, this isn't something I will have to repeat but I can say that taking the throttle body off is pretty painless and will take 45 minutes the first time and probably 15 minutes if you do it again. I would recommend trying this to anyone having idle issues without a CEL.
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Old 10-20-2008, 05:50 AM
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I did mine a long time ago and its still workes great. However the rpm isnt staying up as long now while changing gears...which imo is a good thing.
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Old 10-21-2008, 04:30 PM
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Thanks for the info red06/sc
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Old 10-21-2008, 05:34 PM
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I do mine at every oil change , after you do it once it takes about 5 minutes to get it off and another 5 to clean it . You can do this while the oil is draining out of the motor .
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Old 10-29-2008, 03:06 AM
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Well well, I am the guy who started this thread and I have to say that I am extremely excited about how many people this has helped so far but I am now experiencing another problem. I recently had an aftermarket "Centerforce dual compression clutch and flywheel" installed on the car and now the problem is back 100%. It is however slightly different now. Whenever I leave my car sitting overnight outside my house for example and go to start it in the morning my idle jumps like crazy again and then the car stalls. Normally the car will stall 2-3 times and then finally start and run but when the temperature gets colder like it is starting too this time of the year the problem is getting worse and worse with the weather. The other day it was -10 degrees Celcius and the car took 8 attempts to start before it would run on its own. I am baffled because I had spent the time cleaning the TB again for the 3rd time and I have an oil catch tank also installed. No codes are tripping from the Tech tool from GM and everything is showing normal. The car was left at the GM dealership the other day and the head tech left it outside to see the problem for himself and did all the testing but nothing is showing up, he says that he cant start replacing things on the car to see because its against GM's rules so he needs some definitive facts that something is wrong before he can go ahead and start replacing something. I am soo frustrated that my only opinion on this matter would be that mabye the actual physical mechanical part of the TB is troubled and not showing up on his tool because mabye all the sensors are fine. I will keep you guys posted if anything comes up that might help......
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Old 10-29-2008, 03:19 AM
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Great thread by the way, it help me get rid of my idle problem.
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Old 11-09-2008, 12:28 AM
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Mine still does it : \ I cleaned the TB and everything
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