Install pics and directions for the SnowPerformance kit
Originally Posted by meister
We spray after the blower with centrifugal blowers and Roots/PD blowers and turbos. You CANT spray before the blower on these car's because the meth will not atomize properly, nor will it be in boost so the hot temps will not drop as they should.
You want to tap the manifold/below the blower for this to work properly...this will also keep the meth off the blower rotors.
To run meth properly under the blower, you need an upgraded solenoid from snow. Because manifolds, or anywhere after a TB has vacuum, it will suck the meth into the intake at idle, etc. The upgraded solenoid prevents the meth from being sucked into the engine while running under vac. conditions
The gains of spraying after, rather than where this is spraying will be HUGE! Add extra tuning with meth and watch for mega gains. There will be no need for a second HE or anything like that.
You want to tap the manifold/below the blower for this to work properly...this will also keep the meth off the blower rotors.
To run meth properly under the blower, you need an upgraded solenoid from snow. Because manifolds, or anywhere after a TB has vacuum, it will suck the meth into the intake at idle, etc. The upgraded solenoid prevents the meth from being sucked into the engine while running under vac. conditions
The gains of spraying after, rather than where this is spraying will be HUGE! Add extra tuning with meth and watch for mega gains. There will be no need for a second HE or anything like that.
That washer fluid is vaporized long before it leaves the blower! I want my blower cooled to combat the extreme operating conditions we are putting it in. It will not hurt the rotor coatings, it does not affect atomazation and if anything, the blower helps acting like a big blender. Sorry, i totally disagree with your statement.
Roots/PD Blowers other than KB or Whipple have teflon coatings on the rotor's The alcohol content in the meth, WILL, overtime, wear this coating off the rotors. This is fact and I have seen it with my own eyes. Alcohol/Methanol wears down teflon. These are real life scenarios. I have installed more meth kits than anyone in Canada, tuned more PD/Twin screw blowers with and without meth than anyone in Canada and I have tried both ways.
If you are spraying before boost, you will not cool the air charge enough or fully take advantage of the system. Spraying after/in boost in the intake stream is the most effective method. On a centrifugal blower car/turbo car, you spray in the discharge tube after boost thus cooling the hot boosted air.
This is not an argument I will have as I have tested both ways and KNOW what works. You are still getting the same cooling effect. I have been testing this for a long time and spraying into the intake stream on a PD/Roots blower is the best and most logical method.
You stated your IAT2 temp's are increasing about 36*, which is still big. When spraying the meth into the intake stream I guarntee you see very little change in IAT2's from start to finish
http://public.fotki.com/PMeister/mis...er-meth-n.html
If you are spraying before boost, you will not cool the air charge enough or fully take advantage of the system. Spraying after/in boost in the intake stream is the most effective method. On a centrifugal blower car/turbo car, you spray in the discharge tube after boost thus cooling the hot boosted air.
This is not an argument I will have as I have tested both ways and KNOW what works. You are still getting the same cooling effect. I have been testing this for a long time and spraying into the intake stream on a PD/Roots blower is the best and most logical method.
You stated your IAT2 temp's are increasing about 36*, which is still big. When spraying the meth into the intake stream I guarntee you see very little change in IAT2's from start to finish
http://public.fotki.com/PMeister/mis...er-meth-n.html
Originally Posted by meister
Roots/PD Blowers other than KB or Whipple have teflon coatings on the rotor's The alcohol content in the meth, WILL, overtime, wear this coating off the rotors. This is fact and I have seen it with my own eyes. Alcohol/Methanol wears down teflon. These are real life scenarios. I have installed more meth kits than anyone in Canada, tuned more PD/Twin screw blowers with and without meth than anyone in Canada and I have tried both ways.
If you are spraying before boost, you will not cool the air charge enough or fully take advantage of the system. Spraying after/in boost in the intake stream is the most effective method. On a centrifugal blower car/turbo car, you spray in the discharge tube after boost thus cooling the hot boosted air.
This is not an argument I will have as I have tested both ways and KNOW what works. You are still getting the same cooling effect. I have been testing this for a long time and spraying into the intake stream on a PD/Roots blower is the best and most logical method.
You stated your IAT2 temp's are increasing about 36*, which is still big. When spraying the meth into the intake stream I guarntee you see very little change in IAT2's from start to finish
http://public.fotki.com/PMeister/mis...er-meth-n.html
If you are spraying before boost, you will not cool the air charge enough or fully take advantage of the system. Spraying after/in boost in the intake stream is the most effective method. On a centrifugal blower car/turbo car, you spray in the discharge tube after boost thus cooling the hot boosted air.
This is not an argument I will have as I have tested both ways and KNOW what works. You are still getting the same cooling effect. I have been testing this for a long time and spraying into the intake stream on a PD/Roots blower is the best and most logical method.
You stated your IAT2 temp's are increasing about 36*, which is still big. When spraying the meth into the intake stream I guarntee you see very little change in IAT2's from start to finish
http://public.fotki.com/PMeister/mis...er-meth-n.html
researching teflon and methanol msds sheets shows teflon is only chemically reactive with strong oxidizers...methanol is as well..meaning methanol is not a strong oxidizer and as such there is no chemical interaction between the 2.
Only damage to blades could be cause by large droplets hitting the blades and the repeated impact breaking chunks off. With proper atomization this would not even be an issue
hmm a couple thoughts:
on 6-71 and other Blowers, with teflon seals, you have the carbs on top of it, thus gas is passing thru the blower, and they don't seem to mind that one bit....
I've only seen the downstream alky kits on GN's, and they work awesome (also drove a GN with an alky kit and that was AWESOME lol)
I can see where you'd wanna cool off your blower as well, since I believe 18psi and up is redlining the blower, what about double spray? one before one after, cool both?
And last but not least, could you elaborate on the ECM retune you need to do to run an alky kit? -if any-
thanks !
on 6-71 and other Blowers, with teflon seals, you have the carbs on top of it, thus gas is passing thru the blower, and they don't seem to mind that one bit....
I've only seen the downstream alky kits on GN's, and they work awesome (also drove a GN with an alky kit and that was AWESOME lol)
I can see where you'd wanna cool off your blower as well, since I believe 18psi and up is redlining the blower, what about double spray? one before one after, cool both?
And last but not least, could you elaborate on the ECM retune you need to do to run an alky kit? -if any-
thanks !
Originally Posted by djt81185
researching teflon and methanol msds sheets shows teflon is only chemically reactive with strong oxidizers...methanol is as well..meaning methanol is not a strong oxidizer and as such there is no chemical interaction between the 2.
Only damage to blades could be cause by large droplets hitting the blades and the repeated impact breaking chunks off. With proper atomization this would not even be an
issue
Only damage to blades could be cause by large droplets hitting the blades and the repeated impact breaking chunks off. With proper atomization this would not even be an
issue
Pierre
Originally Posted by pierre
It's not a corrosion issue it's an errosion issue. Teflon is a soft coating that can abrade fairly easily compared to metal. Thats why they used it in this application. Atomizing still forms droplets although they should be small. With the rotors high tip speeds I can see where wear could be a problem.
Pierre
Pierre
^^Exactly, no teflon for us. Though I don't think anyone has sprayed on a Gen V for long enough to know for certain that it will be okay, we don't have the Teflon issue to worry about.
Hells yeah man, this will be awesome. Isn't that one of the earlier upgrades GM recommends in the cook book?
I can't wait to see someone do this on a production car,
Originally Posted by FAST06SS
My next expierment is turning the IC into a double pass instead of a single pass. Got the parts, just need to find the time.
I can't wait to see someone do this on a production car,
I think rob did on his impala ss... I think they had the same coating... If I remeber correctly he ran it for 30000 miles with no obvious wear issues... I think I"m gonna remove my stock HE and get the LFP one with dual fans.... should be better plus more room for the rad to breath... hopefully have that up in running in a week or so...
Talk to ken@kenne bell regarding the effects of methanol on the rotors. I have seen coating wear off on the rotors.
My main point is that you are not making full use of the kit spraying pre blower.....iat2's will be way lower and barely climb spraying in the intake stream/boosted air. You are still getting an increase of almost 40*, which is a lot especially over 120* You can feel that spraying in front of the blower in non boosted air is just as good and ignore all of my R&D...after all, this is just my life and profession...what do i know i have only experimented with both ways 20 or so times
My main point is that you are not making full use of the kit spraying pre blower.....iat2's will be way lower and barely climb spraying in the intake stream/boosted air. You are still getting an increase of almost 40*, which is a lot especially over 120* You can feel that spraying in front of the blower in non boosted air is just as good and ignore all of my R&D...after all, this is just my life and profession...what do i know i have only experimented with both ways 20 or so times
Originally Posted by 06blackg85ss
By the way... we don;t have teflon coated rotors... these are gen V's with an epoxy coating.... you can spray through them with no added wear.
Pierre
Originally Posted by meister
Talk to ken@kenne bell regarding the effects of methanol on the rotors. I have seen coating wear off on the rotors.
My main point is that you are not making full use of the kit spraying pre blower.....iat2's will be way lower and barely climb spraying in the intake stream/boosted air. You are still getting an increase of almost 40*, which is a lot especially over 120* You can feel that spraying in front of the blower in non boosted air is just as good and ignore all of my R&D...after all, this is just my life and profession...what do i know i have only experimented with both ways 20 or so times
My main point is that you are not making full use of the kit spraying pre blower.....iat2's will be way lower and barely climb spraying in the intake stream/boosted air. You are still getting an increase of almost 40*, which is a lot especially over 120* You can feel that spraying in front of the blower in non boosted air is just as good and ignore all of my R&D...after all, this is just my life and profession...what do i know i have only experimented with both ways 20 or so times
I agree... an added benefit of spraying through the s/c will be the cooling of the s/c itself... ever touch one after a run to 7400 rpm with a 2.6... its f'n HOT!!.. so any temps I can bring down I'll be happy.
I hear that... I hate down time.... I should be installing that setup soon myself... I finally get to use my extra LT1 maff... yay!! I'm dying to try out this meth/water injection stuff... everyone I"ve talked to the runs has had great results (mostly turbo guys I know) but will work in the same principle as ours.
Please repeat after me and then write it 1000 times on a chalk board!!!!
THE GEN5 BLOWER ON OUR CARS DO NOT HAVE TEFLON COATED ROTORS!!!!!
It has an abraidable coating that does not come off with WI, TESTED 25K miles and counting with NO WEAR! Will you not listen ot what???
Ask the guys in the 3800 SC community what blower temps they see. They would be happy as a pig in mud to see LESS than 200deg outlet temps AFTER the INTERCOOLER!!!!
I fully agree though with injecting after the turbo
THE GEN5 BLOWER ON OUR CARS DO NOT HAVE TEFLON COATED ROTORS!!!!!
It has an abraidable coating that does not come off with WI, TESTED 25K miles and counting with NO WEAR! Will you not listen ot what???
Ask the guys in the 3800 SC community what blower temps they see. They would be happy as a pig in mud to see LESS than 200deg outlet temps AFTER the INTERCOOLER!!!!
I fully agree though with injecting after the turbo
Last edited by FAST06SS; Jul 26, 2006 at 10:34 PM.
Originally Posted by FAST06SS
Please repeat after me and then right it 1000 times on a chalk board!!!!
THE GEN5 BLOWER ON OUR CARS DO NOT HAVE TEFLON COATED ROTORS!!!!!
It has an abraidable coating that does not come off with WI, TESTED 25K miles and counting with NO WEAR! Will you not listen ot what???
Ask the guys in the 3800 SC community what blower temps they see. They would be happy as a pig in mud to see LESS than 200deg outlet temps AFTER the INTERCOOLER!!!!
I fully agree though with injecting after the turbo
THE GEN5 BLOWER ON OUR CARS DO NOT HAVE TEFLON COATED ROTORS!!!!!
It has an abraidable coating that does not come off with WI, TESTED 25K miles and counting with NO WEAR! Will you not listen ot what???
Ask the guys in the 3800 SC community what blower temps they see. They would be happy as a pig in mud to see LESS than 200deg outlet temps AFTER the INTERCOOLER!!!!
I fully agree though with injecting after the turbo
ha ha ha, getting a little stressed out Rob? Thats like me and this one guy bickering at each other about a FMIC...I say it is useless, do a damn HE!!!
Originally Posted by vandy0419
ha ha ha, getting a little stressed out Rob? Thats like me and this one guy bickering at each other about a FMIC...I say it is useless, do a damn HE!!!
Just tired of people not paying attention to what is said. A guy posted we don't have teflon yet they still want to argue the teflon theory
Dammit, where's my ridilin
Originally Posted by FAST06SS
Just tired of people not paying attention to what is said. A guy posted we don't have teflon yet they still want to argue the teflon theory
Dammit, where's my ridilin

Blower outlet temperatures would be what 300-350 F with a 2.5 pulley @ 7400. And your point was?
Peace
Pierre
Originally Posted by pierre
I was paying attention. Just because I don't believe or agree with everything people say does not mean I wasn't. I have not been here long enough to figure out who is knowlegable and who is not. Teflon, epoxy and abradable coatings are not mutually exclusive words.
Blower outlet temperatures would be what 300-350 F with a 2.5 pulley @ 7400. And your point was?
Peace
Pierre
Blower outlet temperatures would be what 300-350 F with a 2.5 pulley @ 7400. And your point was?
Peace
Pierre
My point??
Originally Posted by FAST06SS
Actually it is well north of 350F if you kept it there but thankfully since our engines rev so fast, we are only at the 'critical' point for a split second.
My point??
My point??


