Knock retard ?
Knock retard ?
I was just curious as to what others are seeing for knock retard amounts...I know 0 is preferred but what is an acceptable or common amount to see? On my LSJ with the w/i turned on I see about 0. With it turned off I see anywhere from 1.7 to 5 under load
Well I think I'm questioning the acuracy of the interceptor gauge. I tried it again this morning....with or without the w/i when you get on it the gauge will randomly bounce around from sec to sec...I never get a steady climbing reading. The car runs and sounds fine. Could this be fake knock or just the acuracy of the gauge?
with my setup, i get soem knock when i lay on it, only in third, as the rpms climb the knock dosnt come back, i too am using an areoforce.
i added 110 octane gas lastnight and i got absolutley ZERO knock.
my a/f is good and my iat2s are good.
i think in my case anyways its due to too much timing in a certain area and the cooler weather, because a few months ago i was not knocking at all and was running 94 octane.
i added 110 octane gas lastnight and i got absolutley ZERO knock.
my a/f is good and my iat2s are good.
i think in my case anyways its due to too much timing in a certain area and the cooler weather, because a few months ago i was not knocking at all and was running 94 octane.
true, the time you could see knock and it be acceptable is right after shifting into gear.
its called burst knock
its called burst knock
Last edited by Doc; Nov 8, 2007 at 11:15 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
toe in knock is a bitch.
there is a fine line between acceptable levels and retarded levels.
acceptable is more or less toe in/burst knock. with the tune i run, it happens. audible knock isn't good. not hearing the knock, but seeing it on the cancer gauge isn't always bad.
there is different things that cause it. solid mounts. {phantom knock is a bitch} toe in. wrong octane. too aggressive of a map. i get more knock at part throttle then i ever do at wot.
throttle transition points, blah blah blah.
you have a knock sensor for a reason. you can adjust how this sensor reacts as well.
there is a fine line between acceptable levels and retarded levels.
acceptable is more or less toe in/burst knock. with the tune i run, it happens. audible knock isn't good. not hearing the knock, but seeing it on the cancer gauge isn't always bad.
there is different things that cause it. solid mounts. {phantom knock is a bitch} toe in. wrong octane. too aggressive of a map. i get more knock at part throttle then i ever do at wot.
throttle transition points, blah blah blah.
you have a knock sensor for a reason. you can adjust how this sensor reacts as well.
another reason i put in 110 lastnight.
i was thinking due to the cooler temps here the poly was hardening on my tranny mounts, this happened with my side engine mount which resulted in me goin back with the stock mount and the engalls.
but to my suprise it wasnt the tranny mounts since after puttin in 110 i got no knock at all.
i was thinking due to the cooler temps here the poly was hardening on my tranny mounts, this happened with my side engine mount which resulted in me goin back with the stock mount and the engalls.
but to my suprise it wasnt the tranny mounts since after puttin in 110 i got no knock at all.
knock sensor basically detects knock by the vibration it senses due to pre-detonation.
so things that increase your vibs will cause false knock.
mostly during high load, or shifting in my experience.
when you get knock during a pull, not during/shortly after your shift....is the stuff you really dont want.
also, knock retard will show up on the gauge as the biggest number first,
and then slowly drop down till its zero again.
this is your engine showing you that its pulled X amount of timing due to knock, and then slowly feeding the timing back in to make sure it doesnt come back.
so things that increase your vibs will cause false knock.
mostly during high load, or shifting in my experience.
when you get knock during a pull, not during/shortly after your shift....is the stuff you really dont want.
also, knock retard will show up on the gauge as the biggest number first,
and then slowly drop down till its zero again.
this is your engine showing you that its pulled X amount of timing due to knock, and then slowly feeding the timing back in to make sure it doesnt come back.
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