Knocking Sound in Engine
I put new tensioners in cars that come in, I just look at the nut if its thin and rusty I know its old and change it. All the new ones I have seen from Tom have a thicker nut with a groove in it although toms CED picture does not show this.
Mr Belvedere is right. You are wrong. Ecotecs in good condition start and run quiet as a mouse. Great motors.
My motor is quiet except for one "bad" hydraulic lifter that ticks sometimes, it comes and goes and i just dont bother with it.
My ecto cavvy wintr btr is quiet as a mouse. Oh both motors have the new tensioner from CED its so cheap its silly not to run one.
My motor is quiet except for one "bad" hydraulic lifter that ticks sometimes, it comes and goes and i just dont bother with it.
My ecto cavvy wintr btr is quiet as a mouse. Oh both motors have the new tensioner from CED its so cheap its silly not to run one.
trust me its not valve noise its your lash adjusters and they are on their way to out gm has done a revision on them what is happening is they are bleeding off overnight and when you fire the engine it takes time for them to repump up and quiet down basicly when the cam comes around to open the valves the lash adjuster is colapsing untill it gets repressurized by the oil pump
the timing chain tensioner is the ticking noise in these motors 90% of the time. change the timing chain tensioner and recheck. its cheap so wont hurt. ud probobly have to replace it soon anyway. other than that these are well built motors ha. THANK U SAAB TECHNOLOGY!
trust me its not valve noise its your lash adjusters and they are on their way to out gm has done a revision on them what is happening is they are bleeding off overnight and when you fire the engine it takes time for them to repump up and quiet down basicly when the cam comes around to open the valves the lash adjuster is colapsing untill it gets repressurized by the oil pump
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Joined: 04-29-08
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From: Hoover, Al
Yeah, it did. $1800, a new set of heads and valves, ARP studs and installation later, I learned my lesson the hard way. They aren't indestructible, and if ANY problem arises, no matter how simple, it should be taken care of immediately. Take care of the little things, and the big things take care of themselves.
The cause was a tune that needed attention after moving from Ohio to Alabama, and was leaning out. I didn't take care of it soon enough. I wasn't leaning badly either.
The point is, just because something hasn't happened yet, doesn't mean it won't happen later.
The cause was a tune that needed attention after moving from Ohio to Alabama, and was leaning out. I didn't take care of it soon enough. I wasn't leaning badly either.
The point is, just because something hasn't happened yet, doesn't mean it won't happen later.
Yeah, it did. $1800, a new set of heads and valves, ARP studs and installation later, I learned my lesson the hard way. They aren't indestructible, and if ANY problem arises, no matter how simple, it should be taken care of immediately. Take care of the little things, and the big things take care of themselves.
The cause was a tune that needed attention after moving from Ohio to Alabama, and was leaning out. I didn't take care of it soon enough. I wasn't leaning badly either.
The point is, just because something hasn't happened yet, doesn't mean it won't happen later.
The cause was a tune that needed attention after moving from Ohio to Alabama, and was leaning out. I didn't take care of it soon enough. I wasn't leaning badly either.
The point is, just because something hasn't happened yet, doesn't mean it won't happen later.
Ok, need some clarification. The new tensioner needs released once threaded in? And what needs to be removed to install the tensioner? Reading some of the J-body forum posts they are tilting/pulling their whole engines to do the tensioner :-\
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