2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

Little Advise On Mods

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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 01:51 AM
  #26  
mcottingham's Avatar
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Here are my MODs, I like them:
  • 60lb injectors
  • K&N Cold Air
  • 2.7" pulley (any smaller and you will need to machine your m62)
  • Water Meth
  • Shortened Belt
  • Plugs, stay away from iridium they produce a weak spark
  • CA V2 Header

I have around 280WHP and am pushing about 16PSI at WOT. I would also recommend getting an HP Tuners kit and doing the tune yourself. I originally purchased a canned tune and had nothing but problems with it.

Also, if you plan to push more than 16PSI you should vent your PCV to atmosphere, not back into the intake. I would also bypass the boost overflow controller.

Mike
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 07:30 AM
  #27  
Staged07SS's Avatar
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Originally Posted by mcottingham
Here are my MODs, I like them:
  • 60lb injectors
  • K&N Cold Air
  • 2.7" pulley (any smaller and you will need to machine your m62)
  • Water Meth
  • Shortened Belt
  • Plugs, stay away from iridium they produce a weak spark
  • CA V2 Header

I have around 280WHP and am pushing about 16PSI at WOT. I would also recommend getting an HP Tuners kit and doing the tune yourself. I originally purchased a canned tune and had nothing but problems with it.

Also, if you plan to push more than 16PSI you should vent your PCV to atmosphere, not back into the intake. I would also bypass the boost overflow controller.

Mike
Incorrect.

They produce a very strong spark.

Originally Posted by mcottingham
Here are my MODs, I like them:
  • 60lb injectors
  • K&N Cold Air
  • 2.7" pulley (any smaller and you will need to machine your m62)
  • Water Meth
  • Shortened Belt
  • Plugs, stay away from iridium they produce a weak spark
  • CA V2 Header

I have around 280WHP and am pushing about 16PSI at WOT. I would also recommend getting an HP Tuners kit and doing the tune yourself. I originally purchased a canned tune and had nothing but problems with it.

Also, if you plan to push more than 16PSI you should vent your PCV to atmosphere, not back into the intake. I would also bypass the boost overflow controller.

Mike
Oh my....

Last edited by Staged07SS; Jan 25, 2012 at 07:37 AM.
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 09:40 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by mcottingham
Here are my MODs, I like them:
  • 60lb injectors
  • K&N Cold Air
  • 2.7" pulley (any smaller and you will need to machine your m62)
  • Water Meth
  • Shortened Belt
  • Plugs, stay away from iridium they produce a weak spark
  • CA V2 Header

I have around 280WHP and am pushing about 16PSI at WOT. I would also recommend getting an HP Tuners kit and doing the tune yourself. I originally purchased a canned tune and had nothing but problems with it.

Also, if you plan to push more than 16PSI you should vent your PCV to atmosphere, not back into the intake. I would also bypass the boost overflow controller.

Mike
This is incorrect.
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 10:48 AM
  #29  
SlowCobaltSS's Avatar
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From: Hot Arizona
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
And this is why I like my tuner right here, he knows what hes doing and it will tune my car and it will be safe too and I won't have to worry about blowing up my engine or anything like that

Thanks Chris your one of the best tuners on here
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 11:41 AM
  #30  
mcottingham's Avatar
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Originally Posted by SCcobaltSS
This is incorrect.
I don't mean to insult anyone here, however, if you have not vented your PCV to atmosphere then you must not be making more than 16PSI of boost or you are in trouble. Under normal running conditions your engine will have approximately 14PSI of pressure in the crank case, increasing the pressure to the engine will result in boost creep, which could seriously damage your engine. Also, the air that returns to your intake can sometimes contain oil particles which results in a HUGE performance hit. I'm sure you'll agree that even a single drop of oil in a barrel of gasoline will lower it's octane value considerably. If you don't believe me, take off your intake and take a look at your throttle body, I bet it's covered in oil/junk.

Iridium plugs might burn cooler, however, many tests have been done that show that the improvement is really only visible on bigger engines 3.0L and above. You will notice that your iridium plugs wear out faster and are WAY more expensive. I have run both and prefer the copper ones.

Mike
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 11:44 AM
  #31  
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by mcottingham
I don't mean to insult anyone here, however, if you have not vented your PCV to atmosphere then you must not be making more than 16PSI of boost or you are in trouble. Under normal running conditions your engine will have approximately 14PSI of pressure in the crank case, increasing the pressure to the engine will result in boost creep, which could seriously damage your engine. Also, the air that returns to your intake can sometimes contain oil particles which results in a HUGE performance hit. I'm sure you'll agree that even a single drop of oil in a barrel of gasoline will lower it's octane value considerably. If you don't believe me, take off your intake and take a look at your throttle body, I bet it's covered in oil/junk.

Iridium plugs might burn cooler, however, many tests have been done that show that the improvement is really only visible on bigger engines 3.0L and above. You will notice that your iridium plugs wear out faster and are WAY more expensive. I have run both and prefer the copper ones.

Mike
Wow.

You posted incorrect information again....

Copper plugs wear out faster than iridium. Iridium's do not burn cooler. That is all determined by the heat range of the plug, and that goes for any plug (copper, iridium, platinum).

Your description considering boost & blow by is not correct at all.
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 11:58 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Staged07SS
Wow.

You posted incorrect information again....

Copper plugs wear out faster than iridium. Iridium's do not burn cooler. That is all determined by the heat range of the plug, and that goes for any plug (copper, iridium, platinum).

Your description considering boost & blow by is not correct at all.

It's easy to say that someone is incorrect. Justifying your answer is a bit more difficult.

I stand corrected on the fact that iridium plugs don't last quite as long, the last longer, however, they are less conductive and tend to overheat more often than copper. Stick with copper, also, copper costs like $10 to replace all 4.

WRT to the blow by, I have been vented out to atmosphere via a catch can for a year and have never had an issues. I have noticed that my TB is clean all the time. I understand that that air is metered, however, if you do your tuning with it vented you will be fine. Think of it as a safety feature.

Mike

Last edited by mcottingham; Jan 25, 2012 at 12:20 PM.
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 12:22 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by mcottingham
It's easy to say that someone is incorrect. Justifying your answer is a bit more difficult.

I stand corrected on the fact that iridium plugs don't last quite as long, the last longer, however, they are less conductive and tend to overheat more often than copper. Stick with copper, also, copper costs like $10 to replace all 4.

WTR to the blow by, I have been vented out to atmosphere via a catch can for a year and have never had an issues. I have noticed that my TB is clean all the time. I understand that that air is metered, however, if you do your tuning with it vented you will be fine. Think of it as a safety feature.

Mike
I have tested both plugs as well.

My car does not like copper plugs. It came with iridiums from the factory, and has always been happy with them. The whole iridium is bad copper is good debate is nonsense this day in age. Like I mentioned, you can control the heat with the heat range of the plug. The LSJ is hit or miss when it comes to plug selection. Some like copper plugs some don't. Yes, they are cheaper than iridium, but need to be changed more often. It's all in what you and your car prefer.

I understand catch cans and blow by, and greater than 16 psi is not the magic number for hurting these engines from excessive blow by & crank case pressure.

Last edited by Staged07SS; Jan 25, 2012 at 01:24 PM.
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 12:24 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Staged07SS
I have tested both as well.

My car does not like copper plugs. It came with iridiums from the factory, and has always been happy with them. The whole iridium is bad copper is good debate is nonsense this day in age. Like I mentioned you can control the heat with the heat range of the plug. The LSJ is hit or miss when it comes to plug selection. Some like copper plug some don't. Yes, they are cheaper than iridium, but need to be changed more often. It's all in what your car prefers.

I understand catch cans and blow by, and greater than 16 psi is not the magic number for hurting these engines from excessive blow by & crank case pressure.
Agreed on the plugs.

I also agree that 16PSI is not the magic number as there isn't really one, it was just my humble opinion.

Mike
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 01:06 PM
  #35  
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I had a vent to atmosphere PCV boosting 23psi with my turbo and it smoked. I reconnected the PCV to my intake and it stopped smoking. I never had an issue when I was SC'd on a M62 with the crank case pressure. When you increase boost even further and with a larger Turbo/SC you need to release even more pressure and adding some type of breather at the oil cap will help.

If you connect the catch can between the PCV and intake the dirty TB and such will go away. I still think a vent to atmosphere PCV isnt the way to go.
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