I just got my car back from the mechanic to do my throw out bearing again, and the car was way down on power.

Pulled the code, maf sensor. Engine stumbles all over after I cleared it, after I coaxed alive for a minute the code came back and it would stay alive.

Engine runs exactly the same if I disconnect the wire at the sensor, which leads me to believe the other side(engine side) isn't connected.

My question is, where does the maf wire go to on the engine itself, does it connect under the fuse box or does it go somewhere else?

​​​​​​I can't trace it back too far without removing stuff and I'm 100 miles away from my tools.

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Need a little more info to help some. What model Base, Sport, SS/SC/TC? What code was it throwing? I'm unsure 100% where the wires end or what else they go to. Let me see if I get this. You have CEL, and the car runs smooth just down on power? You reset the code and the car stumbles. The code comes back and the car runs smooth again, but down on power? You disconnect the MAF and the car runs smooth still and back to normal power? Kinda hard to follow what you wrote. Either was kinda sounds similar to bad MAF issues. I had my HHR Turbo that had a bad MAF, wouldn't boost past 5 psi when the CEL was illuminated. I could reset it and it would be fine for a lettle bit, and then would come back. MAF disconnected it would run jsut about perfect. Replaced the MAF in the HHR SS with the one from my Cobalt SS, and problem solved. Actually the MAF from the HHR SS is still in my Cobalt SS with no issues. Kinda shows how some times these car can be sensitive to the MAF. Try cleaning your MAF ad see what happens.

 

2006 SS, LSJ Motor -that's why I posted in the LSJ section( not trying to be a dick, just assumed)
With the code left on, it's way down on power

With the code cleared, it won't even idle.

With the code left on, and the MAF disconnected at the sensor, there is no difference from being connected. It is still down on power.

I'm thinking they needed to disconnect it to do the clutch since the subframe needs to be dropped. But I don't know where.

 

Also,when I say down on power, I'd guesstimate it's sitting at around 100hp, and only boosting to 7psi.

Car is stage2/3, normally is around atleast 260whp @15psi

 

Assuming you sent it to your mechanic working fine except for the TOB, you need to take it back and make the shop fix it.

The MAF is powered through the EXH fuse in the fuse box under the hood, but it also powers EVAP, O2 sensor and IAT. Signal wires would be going back to the ecu, I'd start which chasing wires, thankfully the maf harness is on the ecu side so you only have 2-3 feet of loom to chase.

EDIT: Which maf code are you getting?

 

$h!t, my bad. I didn't realize it was in the LSJ section. I clicked new posts and wasn't really paying attention. Anyway, what code is it?

 

Follow the wires to make sure none of them are pinched under a mount.

Outside of something stupid like that, or them not reconnecting a ground properly, I'm betting the fuse box wasn't put back together properly (improper tightening on connectors; it happens sometimes).

 

Fuse box is my guess if the wire goes through there, I've had them not put it back properly before.

Code is P0102, thanks for the replies guys

 

Car died, rip /thread lol part out coming soon

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What happened to the car? If the problem is still the code I don't see why go thru all the trouble to part out than just fix it

 

Dunno, but something major. At first I thought the timing guide broke again, but everything under the valve cover was correct and the engine turns over.

I was driving on the highway with all of the 100hp, then out of nowhere there was a huge thud and the whole car was shaking violently.

Somehow the fuel pump stopped working, otherwise I think the engine would start.

My guess is something with the tranny and all the vibrations knocked **** loose. I'm going to investigate a bit more before parting out but the cars useful lifespan is over.

 

If the fuel pump stopped working, check the fuse box (the reoccurring theme in this thread). The relay is easy to check. Maybe just go ahead and disassemble the fuse box and then make sure everything is connected properly; a 7 mm and a 10 mm is all you need to take it apart completely.

I highly doubt is was the transmission. If it was, it'd be leaking like crazy and you'd know it. It also wouldn't kill the engine.

Check all your wired connections. There's only about a dozen or so of them on the engine. Chase the wires around and make sure you don't have any loose connections or grounds. Especially grounds.