Making the LS4 TB driveable
I put the scalar at 4950 and havent had any issues with drivability. I have had it for about a month or so and can drive my car just as smooth as I could with the stock TB. I do have the boost limited in first, but not sure of the exact number's.
here is your gain in power, and normally, yes, you can just change the ETC scalar and go. If there was any change to your timing, thats why you gained power. You're replacing a non-restrictive part with an even less non-restrictive part. There would not be a 16hp gain solely from that swap
thats not really true, but the guy you're responding to is definitely confused, becasue the LS4 and the LSJ TB DO use the same wiring.
To explain to the confused guy, the area scalar tells the ECM when the throttle is open X%, what volume of air should be flowing through it. If it expects X CFMs at 10% throttle, but is seeing 1.5X CFMs at 10% (since the larger TB will flow more at the same throttle percentage), it can do many things, including at the extreme thinking there is a vacuum leak, and put you in limp mode.
If you tell the ECM the TB is bigger than it really is, it will open the throttle less per the same pedal travel since it is trying to get X CFMs at Y pedal travel.
I hope this made sense....And I hope what I said is accurate, but this is my understanding how it works.
To explain to the confused guy, the area scalar tells the ECM when the throttle is open X%, what volume of air should be flowing through it. If it expects X CFMs at 10% throttle, but is seeing 1.5X CFMs at 10% (since the larger TB will flow more at the same throttle percentage), it can do many things, including at the extreme thinking there is a vacuum leak, and put you in limp mode.
If you tell the ECM the TB is bigger than it really is, it will open the throttle less per the same pedal travel since it is trying to get X CFMs at Y pedal travel.
I hope this made sense....And I hope what I said is accurate, but this is my understanding how it works.
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From: Harrisburg, PA
I loaded up the 5500 scaler today, a bit too early to tell if its helping but I really enjoy having the low end power back again
Im having intermittent issues with my hp tuners cable not working so its making things much harder, if anyone wants I can upload tonights log
Im having intermittent issues with my hp tuners cable not working so its making things much harder, if anyone wants I can upload tonights log
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I found my car made better power with the stock Tb over the LS4 one, you would get all kinds of throttle response with the LS4, but the mid range and top end seemed better with the stocker. Not sure what every one elses experience was
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From: Chanfunetta NY
I Just Installed An Ls4 And I Should E Getting Tuned Correctly Some Time Next Week But Yes The Car Is Very Sensetive Now ! Its Crazy Makes Me Look Like I Never Drove Stick Before ! Lol I Just Ease Off The Gas And Throw It Into 2nd So I Dont Look Like A Fool Driving In Traffic
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From: Minnesota
Personally, my Ls4 was a night and day difference..
Ran a friends car (lsvtec CRX) from a 40roll without it, and he pulled a good half length on me, after i swapped to the ls4 tb, i would stay atleast 1/2 length in front of him..
yes its not scientific and its not the smartest thing in the world to do, but that is MY experience with. believe it or not, I think it works.
Driveability...eh its a little harder, just keeps me off the gas pedal as much.
what cable problems are you have RP?
Ran a friends car (lsvtec CRX) from a 40roll without it, and he pulled a good half length on me, after i swapped to the ls4 tb, i would stay atleast 1/2 length in front of him..
yes its not scientific and its not the smartest thing in the world to do, but that is MY experience with. believe it or not, I think it works.
Driveability...eh its a little harder, just keeps me off the gas pedal as much.
what cable problems are you have RP?
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From: Sacramento, CA
I just put my LS4 on a couple days ago....that first gear is tricky at first. but the response is awesome!! i know i 100% gained power on it. i also got tuned too...but my car NEVER has been so responsive since i've owned it.
my g/f....whom never notices ANYTHING new i do to my car.....got in and said "you're car seems like it doesn't hesitate anymore and runs smoother now". So if she notices....there is a def difference.
my a/f or timing or anything like that wasn't changed in my tune. the LS4 leans you out a bit because of it delivering more air faster.
the things that were changed in my tune were:
PE @ 2500 rpm
7200rpm redline
LS4 scaler
speed limiter delete
50% boost in 1st
my g/f....whom never notices ANYTHING new i do to my car.....got in and said "you're car seems like it doesn't hesitate anymore and runs smoother now". So if she notices....there is a def difference.
my a/f or timing or anything like that wasn't changed in my tune. the LS4 leans you out a bit because of it delivering more air faster.
the things that were changed in my tune were:
PE @ 2500 rpm
7200rpm redline
LS4 scaler
speed limiter delete
50% boost in 1st
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From: louisville k.y
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From: Harrisburg, PA
Well intermittently now my hp tuners claims that the key needs to be to the on position when i try to scan or write a calibration, after unhooking the cable from the box 20 times then it starts working again, I dont get it never in the 3.5 years ive had it did it ever do this.
The things that I did to smooth it out was of course tuning the MAF table, set the scaler to 5500 and then cutting off boost in 1st completely to 4250 then ramp it in very slow
The things that I did to smooth it out was of course tuning the MAF table, set the scaler to 5500 and then cutting off boost in 1st completely to 4250 then ramp it in very slow
Well intermittently now my hp tuners claims that the key needs to be to the on position when i try to scan or write a calibration, after unhooking the cable from the box 20 times then it starts working again, I dont get it never in the 3.5 years ive had it did it ever do this.
The things that I did to smooth it out was of course tuning the MAF table, set the scaler to 5500 and then cutting off boost in 1st completely to 4250 then ramp it in very slow
The things that I did to smooth it out was of course tuning the MAF table, set the scaler to 5500 and then cutting off boost in 1st completely to 4250 then ramp it in very slow
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From: Harrisburg, PA
the boost cut made the biggest difference and even that I dont think does it properly, reason being if you have ever noticed if say you run no boost in first gear at all then stomp on it in first or even at half throttle for that matter you will noticed that it jumps into boost then back out and then back in again and so forth. By nature jumping in and out of boost is going to cause some roughness in driveability.
I guess the factory bypass valve or whatnot is still allowing some boost to build I don't know anything about boost controllers but if theres a better way that boost can be properly cut but only in first gear that might help a tad also.
I guess the factory bypass valve or whatnot is still allowing some boost to build I don't know anything about boost controllers but if theres a better way that boost can be properly cut but only in first gear that might help a tad also.
the boost cut made the biggest difference and even that I dont think does it properly, reason being if you have ever noticed if say you run no boost in first gear at all then stomp on it in first or even at half throttle for that matter you will noticed that it jumps into boost then back out and then back in again and so forth. By nature jumping in and out of boost is going to cause some roughness in driveability.
I guess the factory bypass valve or whatnot is still allowing some boost to build I don't know anything about boost controllers but if theres a better way that boost can be properly cut but only in first gear that might help a tad also.
I guess the factory bypass valve or whatnot is still allowing some boost to build I don't know anything about boost controllers but if theres a better way that boost can be properly cut but only in first gear that might help a tad also.
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the boost cut made the biggest difference and even that I dont think does it properly, reason being if you have ever noticed if say you run no boost in first gear at all then stomp on it in first or even at half throttle for that matter you will noticed that it jumps into boost then back out and then back in again and so forth. By nature jumping in and out of boost is going to cause some roughness in driveability.
I guess the factory bypass valve or whatnot is still allowing some boost to build I don't know anything about boost controllers but if theres a better way that boost can be properly cut but only in first gear that might help a tad also.
I guess the factory bypass valve or whatnot is still allowing some boost to build I don't know anything about boost controllers but if theres a better way that boost can be properly cut but only in first gear that might help a tad also.
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