max boost on stock internals
http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/publ.../ct_128484.gif
tell me what that says, and you will have an answer.
there is a way to overspin the blower well past it's efficiency range. most people do this with failed success. compressing air regardless of how many "psi" you run still creates heat. the stock efficiency of the m62 is 7 psi. this does not account for the after cooler.
does a smaller pulley produce more boost, horsepower, torque? yes. i have dyno sheets to prove this. does it also create heat?
**** yes it does. this is where people make major mistakes.
tell me what that says, and you will have an answer.
there is a way to overspin the blower well past it's efficiency range. most people do this with failed success. compressing air regardless of how many "psi" you run still creates heat. the stock efficiency of the m62 is 7 psi. this does not account for the after cooler.
does a smaller pulley produce more boost, horsepower, torque? yes. i have dyno sheets to prove this. does it also create heat?
**** yes it does. this is where people make major mistakes.
I see what your saying.
but your not disagreeing that superheated boost is bad....
your saying that there are ways to avoid making that superheated boost and still make good power off the m62
that i completely agree with.
honest bro, when i had the meth in the car, after hard hard pulls i could touch my s/c without it being too warm that it burnt or anything, it greatly decreased temps and kept the s/c in efficiency
i hear ya.
its the reason im expecting a shipment from AIS in the next day or two
living in alberta really helps dealing with temps too.
at least theres ONE good thing about this frozen tundra hah
its the reason im expecting a shipment from AIS in the next day or two
living in alberta really helps dealing with temps too.
at least theres ONE good thing about this frozen tundra hah
What you really have to address is:
If I spin my blower at X rpms, what is the heat efficiency.
If Y is the blowers ability to disipate heat, then once you exceed the heat efficiency you will start to rapidly gain heat. Let's say that the blower can operate at 12.5psi producing only enough boost as it can handle the heat from.
So if 12.5psi = max X, then 12.5*X=Y anything above that creates excessive heat that will continue to BUILD since you are adding faster than it can subtract.
Let's go to 15psi Now you are talking about 15.0*X=Y+2.5 (per second) so do a 14 second pass at the track and now you will have 15.0*X=Y+35.
The question is at what heatsoak will your car blow the piston ringland into your oilpan. That number will vary with each car.
Then you take the people like Blown4Banger who races at 19.5 psi for about 20 seconds.
We are looking at 19.5*X=Y+140
That is 4 TIMES as much heat stress as a 14 second track run with stage 2.
Now there are obviously other variables that don't need to be addressed per say (like starting cylinder temps if not properly cooled between runs)
If I spin my blower at X rpms, what is the heat efficiency.
If Y is the blowers ability to disipate heat, then once you exceed the heat efficiency you will start to rapidly gain heat. Let's say that the blower can operate at 12.5psi producing only enough boost as it can handle the heat from.
So if 12.5psi = max X, then 12.5*X=Y anything above that creates excessive heat that will continue to BUILD since you are adding faster than it can subtract.
Let's go to 15psi Now you are talking about 15.0*X=Y+2.5 (per second) so do a 14 second pass at the track and now you will have 15.0*X=Y+35.
The question is at what heatsoak will your car blow the piston ringland into your oilpan. That number will vary with each car.
Then you take the people like Blown4Banger who races at 19.5 psi for about 20 seconds.
We are looking at 19.5*X=Y+140
That is 4 TIMES as much heat stress as a 14 second track run with stage 2.
Now there are obviously other variables that don't need to be addressed per say (like starting cylinder temps if not properly cooled between runs)
Well it's actually better to let the car run for about 3 minutes. You want to let the coolant circulate to bring down the temps of the cylinders and head. Parking it right away will just trap all of the heat where you don't want it. Same kind of philosophy as a Turbo Timer.
yup. same with the equipment i run at work.
but it usually takes me a few minutes to putt over to the parking area anyway, which is plenty enough to settle down the temps.
I train people how to drive 4000hp haul trucks for a living, one of the first things i tell them is to NEVER shut off a hot engine
but it usually takes me a few minutes to putt over to the parking area anyway, which is plenty enough to settle down the temps.
I train people how to drive 4000hp haul trucks for a living, one of the first things i tell them is to NEVER shut off a hot engine
god there is so much ****-poor information in this thread, yet again.
at least Steve finally laid out the math behind IAT's and Bryan is handing out cookies again.
boost has absolutely jack **** with why the motor pops, its not AIT related eaither. this i know, this is what i do.
if 20psi is the limit as you say, please dear god exsplane why i can run well over 20psi on a unit that moves multiple times the air volume of the m62 and have a perfectly fine engine?
yup. same with the equipment i run at work.
but it usually takes me a few minutes to putt over to the parking area anyway, which is plenty enough to settle down the temps.
I train people how to drive 4000hp haul trucks for a living, one of the first things i tell them is to NEVER shut off a hot engine
but it usually takes me a few minutes to putt over to the parking area anyway, which is plenty enough to settle down the temps.
I train people how to drive 4000hp haul trucks for a living, one of the first things i tell them is to NEVER shut off a hot engine

head temps get crazy after a few pulls, just look at egt's!!!!!
Last edited by 06black; Jan 26, 2008 at 10:39 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
im thinking pre-blower meth with post blower n20, will be as cold as it gets. should make decent powa with moderate timing. and i have a 2.8 and 60's. need to get my dual pass in dammit.
wow... i read all of this post and came up with nothing....
I'm thinking about getting a 2.99 or a 2.95 pulley on the GM stage 3 ECM. I heard the stage 3 runs alot leaner then the stage 2 so I'm not sure which pulley to get. But instead of doing alot of cooling mods like meth and dual pass would just a heat exchanger be alright?? And is there much of a difference between a 2.99 and a 2.95 or even a 2.9 pulley? Which would be better and but also safe? I think the stage 3 pulley is 2.99 and i think i should stay with that.
I'm thinking about getting a 2.99 or a 2.95 pulley on the GM stage 3 ECM. I heard the stage 3 runs alot leaner then the stage 2 so I'm not sure which pulley to get. But instead of doing alot of cooling mods like meth and dual pass would just a heat exchanger be alright?? And is there much of a difference between a 2.99 and a 2.95 or even a 2.9 pulley? Which would be better and but also safe? I think the stage 3 pulley is 2.99 and i think i should stay with that.
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