need a little help...
need a little help...
i dont know alot about a car.. with air to fuel ratios and stuff like that.. my cummins is easy.. more fuel=more boost.. more boost=more power... but no worrys if to much fuel..
so i will be getting paycheck and a small bonus at work.. so im looking to invest some money into this cobalt now.. (try something beside my turbo diesel) i am curently saving up for a supra but want something out of this... i am ordering a ott heat exchanger.. catback 3inch (would just strait after cat work? or sound like ****?) what im looking for is.. a gauge for afr... exhaust temp.. iat.. also i would like to order a gm stage 2. or a ott stage 1 kit.. i am undecided.. the gmstage 2 i have been told runs at a 10 afr witch is rich.. with a 42# injector and 2.9pully well ott is 60#injector and only 2.8pully wont that run real rich/?? also if you could explain afr to me.. and how to keep them in track.. were would i want mine to be at for the best performance.. were is the safe range on these?? thank you and sorry for so many questions..
so i will be getting paycheck and a small bonus at work.. so im looking to invest some money into this cobalt now.. (try something beside my turbo diesel) i am curently saving up for a supra but want something out of this... i am ordering a ott heat exchanger.. catback 3inch (would just strait after cat work? or sound like ****?) what im looking for is.. a gauge for afr... exhaust temp.. iat.. also i would like to order a gm stage 2. or a ott stage 1 kit.. i am undecided.. the gmstage 2 i have been told runs at a 10 afr witch is rich.. with a 42# injector and 2.9pully well ott is 60#injector and only 2.8pully wont that run real rich/?? also if you could explain afr to me.. and how to keep them in track.. were would i want mine to be at for the best performance.. were is the safe range on these?? thank you and sorry for so many questions..
You can get a AEM Wideband which will display the A/F Ratio. If you want to see all that other stuff a Intercepter gauge will do that. Alot of the vendors sell them. OTTP H/E is a good mod to keep the IAT down. Meth works better tho, which is one thing u will want to get if u decide to get the OTTP Stage 1 kit. It wont run rich if it is tuned right. Its all about the tune. If you arent worried about your warrenty, dont bother with gm stage 2. Costs to much money for the little hp gain. OTTP Stage 1 kit is a good kit (i had it)...u can set the tune so u dont need alot of cooling mods but wont see the full potential the kit can do. Heat Exchanger, Meth, Dual Pass endplate are all cooling mods u can get to keep the heat down on the 2.8. But like i said, you dont NEED them. I ran 2.8/60's for a full summer and my IAT werent that high. I got the car custom tuned so it would run safe with no cooling mods. However like i said before...i wasnt able to see the full potential.
I recommend. To start off, OTTP H/E, Cold Air Intake. After that you can get the OTTP Stage 1 kit and get a custom tune. However to tune you need a wideband.
I recommend. To start off, OTTP H/E, Cold Air Intake. After that you can get the OTTP Stage 1 kit and get a custom tune. However to tune you need a wideband.
u said *** :giggle:
but more gas doesnt equal more power. More AIR equals more power. more COLDER air I should say. the more air and the colder it is crammed into each cylinder the more power you will get. Colder air is denser meaning more oxygen molecules to ignite making a larger explosion. Also the leaner your car is the more power you get, but you can only go so lean before you damage your car. leaner = meaner. You want power out of your balt, go OTTP, i hear theres is like the best. and get catted DP and a muffler b/c LSJ sound kinda crappy unmuffled
but more gas doesnt equal more power. More AIR equals more power. more COLDER air I should say. the more air and the colder it is crammed into each cylinder the more power you will get. Colder air is denser meaning more oxygen molecules to ignite making a larger explosion. Also the leaner your car is the more power you get, but you can only go so lean before you damage your car. leaner = meaner. You want power out of your balt, go OTTP, i hear theres is like the best. and get catted DP and a muffler b/c LSJ sound kinda crappy unmuffled
Last edited by Gestapo007; Jul 13, 2009 at 09:01 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
thanks to both of you... you said that if tuned right i can run 60# on a 2.8.. well i dk how to tune.. and i dk were around here i could go... also for afr what is a good number.. what is the best you can get and what is the safest???... also when i said more fuel more power.. thats with my diesel.. with out the fuel adding timming witch fuels the map sensor i wouldnt hit the 56psi on my diesel that i get.. haha.. but thats not the case here i know.. thats y i want to know a safe afr..
I recommend grabbing an aem wideband gauge to read your air to fuel ratio and an interceptor gauge for your iat2's and knock. Air to fuel ratio is exactly what it sounds, its how much air is going into the motor along with how much fuel is being dumped in. The 60lber and 2.8 kit from ottp runs leaner then the gm stage 2 kit which is good. The ottp kit will run mid to high 11s roughly and the gm stage 2 kit will run high 9s low 10s across the board. I HIGHLY recommend getting the ottp kit unless you can afford a personal tune. Canned tunes aren't all that bad, but personal tunes are much better. You can adjust the fuel trims, dial in the maf if your tuner has the time and is friendly enough *most don't lol*, and adjust the timing until the car is at its peak.
As far as an egt gauge goes I know that dynotune sells some square egt gauges that would go straight into the cabin, I would grab one of those also. You hit the nail on the head with the 3 most important things though, air to fuel is very important it should be roughly 11.7 in my opinion for peak power. This is highly debatable and some people say the lsj can be pushed to low 12s or even mid 12s with no problem. I personally don't think its worth the risk and keep mid to high 11s on all of the cars I tune and have had nothing but happy customers =D. *The lnf motors are different*.
As far as iat2's the interceptor gauge from aeroforce which can be purchased at ottp is a great gauge. It can monitor a ton of things including knock which is also very very important.
If possible, try and find a tuner in your area or one that will drive to you, cough cough me haha.
As far as an egt gauge goes I know that dynotune sells some square egt gauges that would go straight into the cabin, I would grab one of those also. You hit the nail on the head with the 3 most important things though, air to fuel is very important it should be roughly 11.7 in my opinion for peak power. This is highly debatable and some people say the lsj can be pushed to low 12s or even mid 12s with no problem. I personally don't think its worth the risk and keep mid to high 11s on all of the cars I tune and have had nothing but happy customers =D. *The lnf motors are different*.
As far as iat2's the interceptor gauge from aeroforce which can be purchased at ottp is a great gauge. It can monitor a ton of things including knock which is also very very important.
If possible, try and find a tuner in your area or one that will drive to you, cough cough me haha.
I recommend grabbing an aem wideband gauge to read your air to fuel ratio and an interceptor gauge for your iat2's and knock. Air to fuel ratio is exactly what it sounds, its how much air is going into the motor along with how much fuel is being dumped in. The 60lber and 2.8 kit from ottp runs leaner then the gm stage 2 kit which is good. The ottp kit will run mid to high 11s roughly and the gm stage 2 kit will run high 9s low 10s across the board. I HIGHLY recommend getting the ottp kit unless you can afford a personal tune. Canned tunes aren't all that bad, but personal tunes are much better. You can adjust the fuel trims, dial in the maf if your tuner has the time and is friendly enough *most don't lol*, and adjust the timing until the car is at its peak.
As far as an egt gauge goes I know that dynotune sells some square egt gauges that would go straight into the cabin, I would grab one of those also. You hit the nail on the head with the 3 most important things though, air to fuel is very important it should be roughly 11.7 in my opinion for peak power. This is highly debatable and some people say the lsj can be pushed to low 12s or even mid 12s with no problem. I personally don't think its worth the risk and keep mid to high 11s on all of the cars I tune and have had nothing but happy customers =D. *The lnf motors are different*.
As far as iat2's the interceptor gauge from aeroforce which can be purchased at ottp is a great gauge. It can monitor a ton of things including knock which is also very very important.
If possible, try and find a tuner in your area or one that will drive to you, cough cough me haha.
As far as an egt gauge goes I know that dynotune sells some square egt gauges that would go straight into the cabin, I would grab one of those also. You hit the nail on the head with the 3 most important things though, air to fuel is very important it should be roughly 11.7 in my opinion for peak power. This is highly debatable and some people say the lsj can be pushed to low 12s or even mid 12s with no problem. I personally don't think its worth the risk and keep mid to high 11s on all of the cars I tune and have had nothing but happy customers =D. *The lnf motors are different*.
As far as iat2's the interceptor gauge from aeroforce which can be purchased at ottp is a great gauge. It can monitor a ton of things including knock which is also very very important.
If possible, try and find a tuner in your area or one that will drive to you, cough cough me haha.
check your pm i sent you about tuning..
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