hey guys so i was wondering if anyone could give me a few tips on how to get the damn thing off lol.. we have all the bolts out and what not but its still up there.. like they freakin glue it up there.. we went at it with a rubber mallet and still nothing.. is there a special trick that needs to be done?.. also while im at it.. anything special to get the balanceshafts out?.. im chanign a piston and i nee to get to the crank lol thanks alot guys!

 

Balance shafts don't need to come out...

Also, there is another bolt somewhere on the pan by the timing side of the motor. It's hidden.

 

so i can work around the balance shafts?.. and im pretty sure i got that.. its like tucked up and away right.. its in like a little freakin cave of its own lol i got that i took out alot of bolts (idk how many they are in the garage) still wont come down did gm like glue it up there or soemthing? lol

bump

 

Its like black silicone on it, not that tough, its just big and stuck on there pretty well. Use a screwdriver/prybar on the front of the engine, there is a little boss in the casting, not on the sealing surface, that should allow you to pry it down a little. Once you break the seal there, you should be able to get it loose by hand. I just did mine last week and it was really quite simple. I was doing pistons as well, its not hard at all. These engines are very easy to work on, just be careful and take your time, don't make any stupid mistakes, and you'll be fine.

 

you need to get something to pry it off. its just silicone.

you dont need to take out the balance shafts to do a piston. just pull the head. intake, exhaust, and oil pan.. there'll be 2 10 mm bolts (GET NEW ONES) in the connecting rod. take those out and push the piston out with a hammer handle or something.


also, be sure all your timing marks on the chain are lined up right

 

yea i wanted to ask here becuase i didnt know if there was a special way to get it off and i didnt wanna go an pry it and like break the pan or anything lol.. i will deff go to work on it tho.. i need to look but im sure all the bolts are out of there.. i cant image where any other ones could possibly be but yea thanks for the help dude! its like the pan wants to stay there haha

 

If you need any other help, lemme know. I just wrapped my car back up saturday night, so everything is still fresh in my mind.

 

haha alright will do thanks alot man! yea thats my only issue im having right now.. everything else is off the car excpet the oil pan.. there has to be another bolt in there lol guess ill have to look later lol

 

I literally took mine off this morning and put it back on. I ran into the same trouble as you...I tried using a screwdriver and a rubber mallet to get it off but the screw driver broke. I bought a small crowbar for $15 and used that and it came off much easier. You want a small crowbar so that it will fit in the difficult to reach places. Once the silicon is not holding the pan, you'll want to slide the pan to the drivers side to allow the opposite corner to fall down (the transmission fluid pan is in the way), then slide it back towards the driver side to allow the opposite corner to fall since the subframe is directly below that side.
finally, make sure you remove the dipstick first...it will hold the pan in place as well. It just pulls out and pushes in, but you want to pull straight out because it can bend and break easily

 

did you change your own wrist pins did they just slide out and the new ones slide in... sometimes they can be a pain ya know?

 

on the right front corner of the oil pan will be a perfect place to pry it off using a pry bar, it's about a half inch lip.
i hope ur not jamming any flat tips between ur block and the oil pan...

 

hmm maybe ill try that i think im gonna go try to work on it in a little while thanks dude

do i need a gasket or do i just have to use the rvt gasket maker.. or both? lol

 

Yeah, they just slide out. The new ones were much tighter in the factory rods... almost too much, but they did slide in by hand and work fine, so I guess thats just the way they are. The spiro-lock clips that ship with the pistons are the biggest PITA of the whole ordeal.

No gasket, just the RTV stuff. I put a solid bead around the pan, more towards the outer edge, so any excess doesn't squeeze out inside the block, but make sure you go around both sides of the bolt holes, if you only do the outside they could leak.

And use at least the regular black, I would recommend the Ultra Black (high temp, oil resistant)

 

as in all the way around or on the block and on the pan.. which as i type that doesnt make anysence as to y would would put it on boht lolol

 

yeah i think he means go around the bolt holes like in a circle...