I have no idea how to set it up without having the dualpass endplate. Has anyone done this it without have dual pass if so give me some info because I'm lost.

 

I would add a Y splitter right between the pump outlet and heat exchanger inlet. Inlet being the one on the passenger side of the vehicle. You'll have to cut some hose to make room for the Y connector.

Run a 3/4" hose from the outlet of the opt. B tank to the remaining part of the Y connector.

Run the 1/4" hose from the small connector of the opt. b tank to your bleeder valve on top of your stock h/e using a 1/4" brass fitting.

So...

One of these:
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...P1720C221.aspx

One of these:
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...P1693C221.aspx

Some of these (or home made):
http://www.ottperformance.com/store/...ets-11p160.htm

Some 3/4" hose, some 1/4" hose, and a few hose clamps, plus whatever connectors you feel you need to get from point a to point b.

Basically you'll still have your stock reservoir attached to the front of the supercharger, PLUS the opt. b tank.

Should definitely help in bleeding the coolant system when adding an aftermarket heat exchanger, plus whatever small help the extra coolant volume provides.

 

I've tried this...Check out my old thread

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l-lsj-performance-tech-47/option-b-no-dual-pass-182975/

From what I can tell, you want the coolant to enter the front mount heat exchanger in the bottom, and exit in the top, that way the coolant flow and the air are both going up, instead of the coolant flowing down and the air trying to escape up.

 

it's not option B without the endplate, just a larger tank. Why don't you have a dual-pass plate?

 

I agree, leave the factory T, it might help. I never tried the T and option B with no dual pass.

 

I never got one. lol so option b is pointless without the dualpass endplate?

 

Ehh, I wouldn't say useless. It does increase the coolant capacity of the intercooler system, but teaming it with a dual pass endplate is the most effective

See if ItalianJoe can make you one. I have one of his and it's fantastic

 

^ same here.

 

Yeah i might have to. I checked out your thread. so you put a T in the line going to the stock h/e from the enplate?

 

Yep, the T is required to run a 3/4" line to the opt b tank.

 

could you draw me a diagram on exactly how you saying so when i do this i don't get confused.

 

There is a diagram in the post I linked Trying to do exactly what you're doing, but I don't recommend it without a dual pass endplate, I had horrible luck doing that.

 

So your recommending waiting until I get dual pass?

 

Yes, highly. I gave up and put the factory T back in until I got a dual pass. Once I did the dual pass and hooked my opt b tank back up, it's golden.

 

you mean the fill cap t? so when i get dual pass or just get rid of the option b since i have meth injection.

but when dp is installed that t gets takin out?

 

Yep, you get rid of the factory T when you have dual pass and option B.

 

damn that looks complicated. where you fill it up then? in either of the big tanks i guess

 

Yeah, it looks complicated, but once you get a dual pass, i'll help ya.

There's only 1 tank for the intercooling system, which is the Option B tank. That's what you fill up.

 

I had like a proud father moment, two of my customers educating someone on how to do it right Makes me so happy.

OP, I have another plate ready (actually Nate's old core), so if you are ready, it's ready to go. PM me if interested.

 

it is so easy. put an upside down T in place of the silly little Rervoir. take a hose from the top of the t to the new reservoir (option B) then run a small 5./16 id hose with .040 restrictor to the top of the stock HE. Redlines need a 1/4 barb 1/8 npt 90 degree fitting, Cobalts a straight. I can post a fancy diagram later. The stock system cant keep the air out. The Option B does, and therefore the system will work as it was intended, which it generally does not stock. I ran just this for 2 years. It was uncomplicated and worked great. OTTP have all the parts you need and it is not expensive. Diagram later...

 

Exactly right, although for most people it doesn't seem to be that simple John. Gotta remember, not everyone has done this kind of work before.

I've walked people through it over the phone before though, it's not as hard as it seems with a little guidance. I can also supply the necessary bleeder fittings for the top of the stock H/E if needed, I can get them the same place I get the big fitting for the endplate. Straight or 90 degree, 1/8npt to 1/4" hose is what I had luck with.

 

When you take that cap off the stock h/e theres like a blueish seal or something what you do leave it alone and just put the fitting on it?

 

a pipe thread is a tapered hole with a thread. The blueish stuff is pipestick or teflon tape, YOu wrap the tap or put the pipestick (a white paste) on the threads and then gently tighten it, not so it locks or it will pull out the threads in the alloy he they are fragile. Thats why the pipestick or teflon tape to make it snug in the threads but leak proof. Ital Joe can help you he is a good man.

 

Some sort of pipe thread sealant (teflon tape or liquid stuff works fine), nothing special.

 

Now that is a nice diagram .... people shouldn't have anymore questions on installing an Opt. B tank or Opt. B tank w/ dual pass. Nice post qwikredline