i had the stock water pump stop working and the temp went to 250 on the guage..so i imagine the temp around the cylinders wat 280 or so..

but the wat dose move a lil with the expansion of the water...i noticed the temp wouldn't go above 250 it would fall to 220 then climb to to 250...
but yes the temp sensor to turn the pump on will be in the block...

 

Trust me lots of people have warped the head or blown a head gasket from driving with a broken water pump. Temp is much higher at the head. Antifreeze flashes to steam even though the system is pressurized and "burps" the steam. Which is the only thing moving the antifreeze. The sensor is near the thermostat where the water temp is much lower.
If you don't believe me shoot an infrared thermometer at the heads when the pump isn't running, ask your mechanic or google broken waterpump and warped heads. Not trying to be an ass just wanted to point out things you might not have considered.

 

ya i totaly under stand...Im a mechanic myself.
i defiantly appreciate the information..

im basikly using the stock coolant system with a electric pump its made a huge difference.

 

the temp sensor isent near the thermostat on the lsj

 

Difference as in? all ecotec run off the thermostat. Power? Not sure what you mean, interesting project you have done. But thats as far as it goes for me.

 

the power difference i can feel..and how quickly the engine reves now..

 

Oops my bad, I haven't had to replace that sensor on mine . I googled the temp sensor location before I replied and didn't notice it was for the 2.2. Being located in the head you "might" get away with using the temp sensor to start the pump running but I still don't think it has any advantage and you are better off starting it at key on.

These guys recommend running a digital controller and removing the thermostat for Max efficiency. I dont think you you will gain much hp or gas mileage. By their calculations at top rpms a mechanical water pump is only using a max of 6-10 kilowatts(8-13 hp) and .2 hp at idle. Power used at 3500 rpm would only be 3 or so hp since they say the power used increases by the cube of the speed.
http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electr...P-content.aspx

Even the hypermilers feel it is of limited use unless you can also remove the alternator.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...mp-3952-6.html

An interesting project but I think the only real use of it is so you can cool your car down quickly between runs by running the electric waterpump and fans with he engine off.

 

the coolant system circulates the coolant through the head block and heater core while the stat is closed when the stat opens it circulates through the rest of the system the lsj stta housing has provisions to put a temp probe in it so what he is wanting to do should work i would just put the pump on at a lower temp

 

to be totally respectful of your interesting and certainly extensive project, butt dyno counts for diddly.

 

i agree with u 100%..ive owned my cobalt for about 3 years..this is my 2nd year on css..ive learned alot about these cars from u guys...this mod in my mind was to totaly eliminate the functionality of the balance shafts...and take that chain off the engine. less moving parts to worrie about is my main goal..more oil to the mains and valve train..

 

When you gettin back on the rollers??

 

me??
i did plan to get the car dyned this month sometime...with the tune i have on it now...to see if the electric water pump made a difference...
but i tested E85 before i dyno the 306whp and it was E85..my brother told me that its at E70 right now in modesto..so Im sure it will effect the numbers...Im sure ot will cuz me car seems to be on the rich side now but we will see.

 

Yeah you, I'm really interested in the gains to be had with the electric pump and bs delete!

 

i think you need to refigure your guestimation as i bet you are way off the kilo wat it takes is going to be different on the pump you choose

as example if it takes 1 hp to turn the pump at 600 rpm then at 1200 it takes 8hp to turn the pump and so on the power a pump pulls is 8cubed/squared or what ever the **** it is


so when the pump speed doubles from idle speed say 600 rpm to 1200 rpm, the power it takes increases by 8 times. Then another 8 times going to 2400 rpm and so on up top 10,000 rpm. It is this extra power and torque you are releasing by disabling the mechanical pump,

the other advantage is mechanical pumps tend to cavitate high rpms with an electric it wont

 

Could be. I just used the numbers supplied from the site that was selling ewp's. .2 hp at idle to 13 at high rpm. I found another showing 20hp or so on a vette with a mezier pump but my main point was that it was better suited to a track only car.
Corvette Electric Water Pumps - LS7 Pump Adds 13 HP - Vette Magazine

 

if i was drag racing i would just use ice for the supercharger intercooler and propolyne glycol for the cooling and go. no pump lol wellnot really but still. 1320 is not a long distance

 

lots of people run electric pumps on the street with no ill effects the tricky part is getting the flow rate dialed in

 

ok guys Im gona try and see how well this pump will work this weekend..

 

"I like the way the sounds, whatchu got in mind?"

 

beat the **** out of it like always..

 

Lol oh I was hoping for some numbers!

 

won't have dyno # till end of the month