painted my blower...questions
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painted my blower...questions
I painted the M62 a week and a half ago (used Duplicolor high temp paint with ceramic rated to 500*) and I've noticed that since I painted it, the blower feels just warm to the touch after driving/pulls vs. before it was "oh ****" hot just like the valve cover is after driving/pulls. It makes me wonder where the heat is going now because its generating the same amount of heat as it always has...info/thoughts/input on this please. If this is causing the blower to like encase the heat or something ill take off the blower and remove the paint. It looks badass but if its changing the way the blower disapates/releases heat and such its not even a debate; performance comes first. Anyone have an explanation?
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thats what ive been thinking too. before i painted it i did some searching around to see if it would affect anything and i didnt really find anyone with negative affects but if its holding in heat im gunna remove the paint, i didnt think it would affect it that much but guess i was wrong. could this raise iat2s also? last tune session was last week and that was after the blower was painted and iat2s peaked at 167 at the top of third, a little high for having the dual pass wickedss said, i dont remember what the iat2s peaked at before painting the blower though so i have no comparison number
the thicker the paint and number of coats the more heat its going to retain. The type of paint im sure will also effect it and insulate more heat. My best guess is that since you used an extremly high temp paint, the paint is designed to be insulate a lot more as rapid heating and cooling of any material will wear it out faster. The paint is designed to resist the transfer of heat, i would imagine at the molecular level there are a lot of empty spaces between molecules to give it is high temperate rating. But im no paint expert, i couldnt tell you anything really about paint, just taking a common sense guess.
Your best bet is to check your IAT2s with similar temps as when you check it without the paint, if its within 5 degrees i wouldnt worry about it. If its more than 5 degrees or closer to 10, i would remove it.
and 167F iat2 is pretty high, i would only hitting 130-140F with a 2.7 dual pass and reservoir.
Your best bet is to check your IAT2s with similar temps as when you check it without the paint, if its within 5 degrees i wouldnt worry about it. If its more than 5 degrees or closer to 10, i would remove it.
and 167F iat2 is pretty high, i would only hitting 130-140F with a 2.7 dual pass and reservoir.
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thanks for the input, yea the 167 iat2s is high but i also didnt have any tie to cool down at all, i drove about 40 min to my tuners and we hit the road cruising some more and then did some pulls so that could make some difference too, but i have no idea of what the iat2s were before i painted it, ill see if wickedss has any of the logs saved but idk
if you have the extra coolant reservoir and coolant is flowing through it, this will help keep the iat2s down alot and that along with the dual pass will keep your temps lower, but im getting meth here really soon so im hoping that drops the iats a good amount
if you have the extra coolant reservoir and coolant is flowing through it, this will help keep the iat2s down alot and that along with the dual pass will keep your temps lower, but im getting meth here really soon so im hoping that drops the iats a good amount
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Run through all my mods:
K&N Intake
GM Stage 3 Pulley (2.99")
42# Injectors
GMPP Catback
Factory Header/DP w/ Gutted Cat
Dual Pass Intercooler Endplate
Ingalls ETD
WickedSS HP Tuned
K&N Intake
GM Stage 3 Pulley (2.99")
42# Injectors
GMPP Catback
Factory Header/DP w/ Gutted Cat
Dual Pass Intercooler Endplate
Ingalls ETD
WickedSS HP Tuned
you might want to look into some more cooling mods, ext meth bight after cooler, option b or all. how are the 42's working for you on the 2.99, i thought the stage three pulley was 2.799 basically 2.8?
r u sure ur IC pump is working??? that seems like high iat2s... i only have a heat exchanger and i havent seen temps anywhere near those and i have a smaller pulley than u...
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Nope the Stage 3 is barely smaller than the stage 2... 2.99", its meant to go with the 42s it works nicely, injector duty cycle is in the low 90%s i believe, im getting an alcohol injection systems meth kit wednesday, should be installed and tuned for in about 2 weeks or less; i want to do a "hatrickstu" type cooling setup with the extra coolant reservoir and coolant flowing through vs essentially just being a surge tank like option b, but yes cooling mods are coming first before i drop to a 2.8" and get 60s
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this has occasionally crossed my mind...i cant say for sure that it is or isnt; any tips on how to check for this? if the IC pump was broken would the coolant temps sky rocket? they slowly heat up to around 185-187* and stay around there
but thou ait2 are high imo i see no wear near that but im very very heavily modded al around
yes>
yes>
Last edited by OneCOLDBIZL272; Aug 3, 2010 at 02:18 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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yea judging by your sig i can tell youre heavily modded lol and when you said "yes" to this
"this has occasionally crossed my mind...i cant say for sure that it is or isnt; any tips on how to check for this? if the IC pump was broken would the coolant temps sky rocket? they slowly heat up to around 185-187* and stay around there"
what did you mean?
"this has occasionally crossed my mind...i cant say for sure that it is or isnt; any tips on how to check for this? if the IC pump was broken would the coolant temps sky rocket? they slowly heat up to around 185-187* and stay around there"
what did you mean?
did your tuner turn your after cooler pump on at all time so you can even have your car off and it will still flow with the acc power on. if so put the car up turn the car on with out starting it and go listen for it, if you cant hear it, tap it with a hammer, if it then works your pump is pretty much shot and need a new one asap.
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when i turn the key to the ACC position i can hear something come on...sounds like a fan or pump of some sort, ill ask tom if he set it up to come on with the key in the ACC position but i think he did...cant say 100% for sure though
yea judging by your sig i can tell youre heavily modded lol and when you said "yes" to this
"this has occasionally crossed my mind...i cant say for sure that it is or isnt; any tips on how to check for this? if the IC pump was broken would the coolant temps sky rocket? they slowly heat up to around 185-187* and stay around there"
what did you mean?
"this has occasionally crossed my mind...i cant say for sure that it is or isnt; any tips on how to check for this? if the IC pump was broken would the coolant temps sky rocket? they slowly heat up to around 185-187* and stay around there"
what did you mean?
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yea thats one reason i dont think the pump is broken cuz they slowly climb to around 185-187* and stay around there, so i dont think the IC pump is shot, and the noise i hear when i turn the car to ACC...is that most likely the pump coming on? i know its something of this sort but im not sure if its specifically the IC pump or just the fan or something
yea thats one reason i dont think the pump is broken cuz they slowly climb to around 185-187* and stay around there, so i dont think the IC pump is shot, and the noise i hear when i turn the car to ACC...is that most likely the pump coming on? i know its something of this sort but im not sure if its specifically the IC pump or just the fan or something
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yea i think so too lol i dont beat on it that much/drive like a jackass lol i do occasional pulls at night in the cooler air and gettting on the highway is a given lol but when i saw 167* iat2s during tuning that was at the top of a 3rd gear pull probably 10 min after a 3rd gear pull all the way to 7K and like i said i didnt have any cool down time at all from driving 40 min or so to his apartment, so that all couldve contributed to it; aeroforce interceptor is on the way so i can monitor my iat2s, but yea, i dont beat on my car alot lol
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