2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

smaller pulley

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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 09:47 AM
  #26  
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From: Frederick MD
im not trying to blow it up lol
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 05Blackss.sc
im not trying to blow it up lol
Modifying to any extent involves risk.

You saw my supercharger rotors on page 1, shoulda seen my motor
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 10:00 AM
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From: Frederick MD
when your dealing with sc its a lot more risky...i think im just going to get full bolt ons get all the cooling upgrades and cam it. as long as i do my cam right theres little risk.
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 10:09 AM
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Just make sure she has a good tune, this can be considered to be one of the most important aspects. Don't cheap out here. You can spend thousands and build a top notch motor, and blow it up within minutes if you don't tune it right, whereas, you can have a relatively stock motor with a serious power adder, and if the tune is keyed in correctly, you may not necesarily be sacrificing reliability.

If you aren't looking to squeeze everything you can out of it, you will probably be happy with the things you have listed, on your 3.0 pulley, and a good tune.
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 12:12 PM
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she pretty much said it all
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Jazer
This.

You guys wanna see what happens to rotors after 22k miles on a 2.7 puley with no cooling mods. Theres no way anything got in there from the intake, or from the engine.. this is the damage caused from either supercharger debris, or just plain over heating and/or over-spinning. Don't try this at home, hahaha.
You most definately had something enter your intake. To do that to a rotor there was something that was caught in it. There is no way to do that from overheating/ overspinning. The coating that came off is an APC (abradable powder coating). It’s a graphite based powder electrostatically applied and would cause no major harm to the rotors.

There is nothing wrong with running a small pulley if you have a proper setup going. This is going on 3 years ago now but back in the day i ran my 2.5" setup for 6 months with no cooling mods and over 2 years with all of them. Car never blew, treat the car right, tune it good, and mod it correctly and your fine.



Thats my blower after 17k miles on the 2.5"
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 12:32 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by lsjwannabe
You most definately had something enter your intake. To do that to a rotor there was something that was caught in it. There is no way to do that from overheating/ overspinning. The coating that came off is an APC (abradable powder coating). It’s a graphite based powder electrostatically applied and would cause no major harm to the rotors.

There is nothing wrong with running a small pulley if you have a proper setup going. This is going on 3 years ago now but back in the day i ran my 2.5" setup for 6 months with no cooling mods and over 2 years with all of them. Car never blew, treat the car right, tune it good, and mod it correctly and your fine.



Thats my blower after 17k miles on the 2.5"
My car was run like this before it was my car (it was my xbf's beforehand - I personally would have never run it like that)... but I don't see how anything could have gotten in there. Im not entirely canceling it out.. But I think it was from the S/C itself.. Especially considering the housing got a stress crack in it as well from the heat it generated. The car was beat on, and had more truck runs than you could keep track of. Back to back runs included. It had a rough life, and the supercharger & engine showed this.
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Jazer
My car was run like this before it was my car (it was my xbf's beforehand - I personally would have never run it like that)... but I don't see how anything could have gotten in there. Im not entirely canceling it out.. But I think it was from the S/C itself.. Especially considering the housing got a stress crack in it as well from the heat it generated. The car was beat on, and had more truck runs than you could keep track of. Back to back runs included. It had a rough life, and the supercharger & engine showed this.
Maybe the filter was loose or off at some point in time? The stress crack is most likely becuase the clearance between the case and rotors was compromised when that object came into contact with the rotors.

If you still have or had the blower check the opposite rotor for a witness mark in the same spot.
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by lsjwannabe
Maybe the filter was loose or off at some point in time? The stress crack is most likely becuase the clearance between the case and rotors was compromised when that object came into contact with the rotors.

If you still have or had the blower check the opposite rotor for a witness mark in the same spot.
Nope, never ran without a filter or anything like that.. it also happened awhile after he had a short ram intake on it as well, filter was clean as a whistle, no sand/junk on it that a CAI is more likely to see.

I don't really think that's how it cracked either, it's not cracked on the inside, nor all the way through. Just the outside.

At this point tho, I don't really care how it happened, he was an idiot, I rebuilt my motor and it has a new S/C on it with a stock pulley. That and Im sellin the thing in a few months anyways.

Here is the crack.


The moral of my posting these images, is mod responsibly and take care of your car, lol. Don't be a *******.
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 01:10 PM
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Yeah, there's no way just having a 2.7 on the car will destroy the coating on the rotors. My car has had a 2.8" for 30k miles with no cooling mods and the rotors are amazing looking. But agreed on the moral of the story, smart modding is the key to modded car longevity
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 01:11 PM
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Hmmm conflicting arguments but I believe what Jazer said is 100% true, just treat your car right and take care of it and your problems wont be nearly as bad... but then again you could have an alternator go on you and then cause your electrical to get screwy and blow a piston on a 2.9 pulleyd car.... hahaha.... fml
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 01:17 PM
  #37  
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btw lsjwannabe, I just saw the pics, most of the time pics dont go through while im at work. that blower does look emmaculate tho.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 09:27 AM
  #38  
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From: Frederick MD
Originally Posted by Jazer
Just make sure she has a good tune, this can be considered to be one of the most important aspects. Don't cheap out here. You can spend thousands and build a top notch motor, and blow it up within minutes if you don't tune it right, whereas, you can have a relatively stock motor with a serious power adder, and if the tune is keyed in correctly, you may not necesarily be sacrificing reliability.

If you aren't looking to squeeze everything you can out of it, you will probably be happy with the things you have listed, on your 3.0 pulley, and a good tune.
yeah thats what i think im going to do...i just want a good efficient sick ass car lol. not trying to drop 400 to the wheels lol. thanks
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 10:13 AM
  #39  
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Im not tryint to thread jack but i got a quick question.. My car came used with a 2.6.. i wanna put on a 2.8 and i know i need a tune and all the good stuff.. but untill then would i be able to run the car with the 2.8 untill i get a tune as long as i dont go into boost or push it in anyway?
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 10:36 AM
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From: Land of Freedom
if it has a 2.6 on it now a 2.8 will be better for u. i still wouldnt hammer the car but if youll be pushing less air thru the motor on a 2.8
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 10:41 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Xephirothx
Im not tryint to thread jack but i got a quick question.. My car came used with a 2.6.. i wanna put on a 2.8 and i know i need a tune and all the good stuff.. but untill then would i be able to run the car with the 2.8 untill i get a tune as long as i dont go into boost or push it in anyway?
I wouldn't. Then again, judging by this thread, I'm overly paranoid.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 11:55 PM
  #42  
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From: Frederick MD
Paranoid?! I just bought my Balt and had to change all rotors and breaks jus blew a cv joint and strut now my clutch is on it's way out and I'm 16 and have to pay for it all. Tuff **** I know
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 12:16 AM
  #43  
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When you're ready for a dual-pass, let me know. I'd advise it as one of the first mods, along with some exhaust (specifically a good header and cat removal). Drop the pulley size whenever you are ready, it will survive, but you will gain more usable power by doing the support mods first rather than later. I ran my car on basic stage 2 with the 2.8 for a long time, only real mods were a catless dp and a ported stock exhaust manifold. As i got the cooling system sorted, did some porting work on the intake and TB, made other small adjustments, the car just kept getting stronger. All on stock tune and 42lb injectors. Proper cooling is what will make it safe, heat just kills these motors.

Originally Posted by Xephirothx
Im not tryint to thread jack but i got a quick question.. My car came used with a 2.6.. i wanna put on a 2.8 and i know i need a tune and all the good stuff.. but untill then would i be able to run the car with the 2.8 untill i get a tune as long as i dont go into boost or push it in anyway?
You'll be fine Wilson. Bring it by and let me take a look at the tune sometime.

Last edited by ItalianJoe1; Mar 17, 2010 at 12:16 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 07:15 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
When you're ready for a dual-pass, let me know. I'd advise it as one of the first mods, along with some exhaust (specifically a good header and cat removal). Drop the pulley size whenever you are ready, it will survive, but you will gain more usable power by doing the support mods first rather than later. I ran my car on basic stage 2 with the 2.8 for a long time, only real mods were a catless dp and a ported stock exhaust manifold. As i got the cooling system sorted, did some porting work on the intake and TB, made other small adjustments, the car just kept getting stronger. All on stock tune and 42lb injectors. Proper cooling is what will make it safe, heat just kills these motors.



You'll be fine Wilson. Bring it by and let me take a look at the tune sometime.
x2 !!
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 09:02 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
When you're ready for a dual-pass, let me know. I'd advise it as one of the first mods, along with some exhaust (specifically a good header and cat removal). Drop the pulley size whenever you are ready, it will survive, but you will gain more usable power by doing the support mods first rather than later. I ran my car on basic stage 2 with the 2.8 for a long time, only real mods were a catless dp and a ported stock exhaust manifold. As i got the cooling system sorted, did some porting work on the intake and TB, made other small adjustments, the car just kept getting stronger. All on stock tune and 42lb injectors. Proper cooling is what will make it safe, heat just kills these motors.



You'll be fine Wilson. Bring it by and let me take a look at the tune sometime.
For sure man.. I've just been busy as **** with school and crap.. anyways.. Done threadjacking.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 09:02 AM
  #46  
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From: Frederick MD
yeah i have zzp mid length and catless mid
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 09:26 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
When you're ready for a dual-pass, let me know. I'd advise it as one of the first mods, along with some exhaust (specifically a good header and cat removal). Drop the pulley size whenever you are ready, it will survive, but you will gain more usable power by doing the support mods first rather than later. I ran my car on basic stage 2 with the 2.8 for a long time, only real mods were a catless dp and a ported stock exhaust manifold. As i got the cooling system sorted, did some porting work on the intake and TB, made other small adjustments, the car just kept getting stronger. All on stock tune and 42lb injectors. Proper cooling is what will make it safe, heat just kills these motors.

You'll be fine Wilson. Bring it by and let me take a look at the tune sometime.
Stock tune? This is a very bad idea. Too much heat can be your enemy, so is a bad tune for what the car is running.

I wouldnt even run GMs stage 2 tune with a smaller pulley than what it was meant for... aka, 3.0.

You may have been lucky, but that isn't good advice to give out..
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 09:28 AM
  #48  
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From: Frederick MD
i have stg 2 with 3.0 pulley but its tuned
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 09:30 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by 05Blackss.sc
i have stg 2 with 3.0 pulley but its tuned
This is correct... stage 2 is a 3.07 pulley.

Im saying I would not run 2.9/2.8 etc (like he mentioned above)... on 42 # injectors & a stage 2 tune. That is not a smart idea. Unless you wanna increase your risk & strain you are putting on your motor. Then go for it.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 09:35 AM
  #50  
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From: Frederick MD
well before i get a smaller pulley im going to do some cooling upgrades first and i would get it tuned the day i put it on. but def. cooling first im not going to be retarded and throw a 2.6 on a 3.0 pulley tune. clearly not going to be good for the car
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