I swear my car only ran good with ngks for about 100 miles.... bad batch maybe? Or they dont like Canada

 

what gap martin?

 

i love my zex plugs, my car runs so smooth with them...... all my buddies with the ngks are sayin the ngks are crap.

 

I tried .35, .37 and .40 Nothing seem to make it work right. It did run better with the smaller gap I found, still not ideal though. Stock made it run alot better really?

 

ngk are good plugs why are they still in business if there so crappy like your friends say, go ahead and pay moee for the zex

 

all of my cars i have run ngk in.
92 maxima se, bottle fed, ngk
95 pathfinder, bottle fed, ngk
95 gsx eclipse, 403 to the tire. ngk, bpr6es
91 talon tsi 300 to the tire, ngk, bpr6es
76 280z, stroked, bottle fed, ngk
05 grand prix gxp, bottle fed, ngk tr6's

im sorry, zex is a gimic plug, like the split fires. yes copper plugs wear out faster, yes gm puts ngk's in all of their gasoline cars/trucks stock, so does, nissan, toyota, mazda, and honda.


it is really up to you, but in my past years i have never had one problem with any ngk plugs going goofy on me. i will go with what is proven to work for me, and all the cars i have built before i go off and do some gimic plug. i sell both ngk and zex stuff. i have never had a person ask me for zex plugs over ngk.


again, this is my opinion.

 

^^^Yeah thats cool man. You have ure opinion, I have mine. I can tell you the stock NGK work fine with S2, no complains there. But since I have more boost, I need a colder pluggs. I was saying the model BKR7E (one step colder than stock)for my car doesnt work very well. And there is another few guys on here with the same problem.

 

Zexs are not gimmicks. They are just like NGK's performance plugs which are offered in different heat ranges (Beyond the 1 step hotter/colder for the stock regular plugs) and use metal combinations that you can count on under high performance.

I agree with you that NGKs should be used on a stock application and even stage II, but past that you need to find which one suits your engine the best; if NGK happens to offer the plug to do that then so be it. My point is that ZEX offers more performance oriented plugs with a better setup for boost/nitrous than most normal spark plugs. If you have nevered modified a car then I definately see where you're coming from.

Edit: I do agree that the multiple electrode setup is sort of a gimmick. I can see where if you detonate and one electrode collapses you would still have 2 more for safety purposes but for performance it doesn't do anything.

 

im runnin the 7e's in my car, not one problem really.
it would be classified as the "turbo honda plug"

 

i really like to know where u got ur info..... the ngks are 50 bucks for 4 and the zex are 25....... hows that paying more.

 

the recommended plug for modded apps for our car is the Iridium IX
BKR7eIX. rule of thumb is on a 4 cylinder for every 50 Hp over stock go one heat range cooler. NGK offers up to 3 heat ranges cooler. and drop the gap to.35
If people are interested I can get the lead Tech for NGK to answer questions some time soon. or ask me and I will get him to reply to me and ill post.
Personally go with a plug that makes you happy. if it works for you great if not oh well.
OEM is NGK for a reason.

 

See that's weird man. I hear more horror stories about iridium plugs than any other plugs.

 

nopt sure what type of horror stories they could be. an iridium plus has a copper core, well at least most manufacterers have copper cores some dont. and the tip which is iridium and or various different ground electrodes being platinum or platinum tipped etc etc.

use which ever type of plug you like there is no right and wrong.

 

- BKR7E Copper Tipped spark plugs are one range colder, ideal for when you have a 3.25" pulley or smaller - Help eliminate Knock Retard & get a better conductor of ignition current - Comes in Set of 4

NGK Spark Plugs (BKR7e)- Your Price: $9.99 USD + $4.99 Shipping

 

True. I have seen so many different plugs work fine in different applications.
It comes down to trial and error. See what your car likes...through scanning if possible.

 

i think you you should have gap them a bit smaller i cant realy say on your type of cars
but they do work great on hondas 400 whp whit no problem but the gap is more at 28 and a motor is a motor gm dodge ford honda toyota or even kia

and yes ngk make beven cloder plugs 8, 9 , 10 but have to wait over 2 month to get them

i buy 5 box at the time for the shop for tuning cars

i run number 8 in my car and it make 600 whp on stock ingnitiong

8, 9, and 10 are racing plug

when you can buy a 3.50 cnd dollars plug vs a 10 to 15 dollars plug ho care if you have to change them 2 or 3 time a year

 

Nah, a gap as small as .28" on a step colder plug would fould out in about an hour and start missing since he only has stage II. You only gap smaller if you need to. Like someone said above, for 50 extra horses you should go with a range colder plug; also, for 50 extra you should only need to close the gap by about .05" if at all.

You need a strong spark to ignite the fuel. The smaller the gap, the weaker the spark. You only gap smaller if the heat in the cylinder is making it too hard for the spark to jump the gap; with the step colder you slightly reduce cylinder temps by reducing spark plug temperatures, therefore it won't have as hard of a time sparking.

 

The smaller the gap, the weaker the spark.????
untrue.
you should not go smaller the .35

BKR7EIX is the proper NGK number and its iridium tipped not copper, there is no copper tipped plugs only nickle, iridium and platinum.. nickle being the fastest wearing.

 

Dude, I'm starting to realize you really don't know what you're talking about. How many links do you need to prove this stuff to you?

Yes, the smaller the gap the weaker the spark. The reason is because the lower the resistance the smaller the voltage needed to jump the gap, the result is a lower intensity spark.

Wikipedia: "This adjustment can be fairly critical and if it is maladjusted the engine may run badly, or not at all. A narrow gap may give too small and weak a spark to effectively ignite the fuel-air mixture, while a gap which is too wide may be too wide for a spark to fire at all" http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spark_plug

Howstuffworks.com: "The spark plug is quite simple in theory: It forces electricity to arc across a gap, just like a bolt of lightning. The electricity must be at a very high voltage in order to travel across the gap and create a good spark. Voltage at the spark plug can be anywhere from 40,000 to 100,000 volts." AKA THE LARGER THE GAP THE HIGHER THE VOLTAGE REQUIRED TO JUMP IT THEREFORE A MORE INTENSE SPARK.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system2.htm

This is why if you gap your plugs to high it can kill your coils because they will be forced to produce to much voltage.

This is two things I have corrected you on this far and it's starting to get rather annoying. If you don't know, don't talk. You need to do some research or actually work on cars. I can tell you have ZERO experience.

 

sigh.. im not here for a pissing contest. i you think your right, I asked an NGK Engineer and he replied the opposite.
As for the first correcting, yes i was incorrect in stating this due to my thinking about nickle tips vs iridium vs platinum. Im man enough to admit when i make a mistake. Im not perfect.

Lets just leave it at that.
I cannot convince you, that you're wrong so have a great day.
If you want I can give you a number or email of the NGK engineer and he can set you straight....

 

You're right, you can't convince me I'm wrong when I know I'm right. I have even seen it on an ignition scope. If you gap a plug smaller the voltage goes down.

You said you're not here for a pissing contest, yet everytime I say something you are right behind me saying it's untrue....and then I have to prove you wrong, when instead you should just sit back and learn because you obviously know nothing about this stuff.

I'm really not trying to be a dick, but it seems as though you're the one leading this "pissing contest" by continually trying to prove me wrong when you're the one that is mistaken. I bet it's a bad feeling when you think you know something but then find out it's not right; I'm just trying to set the record straight because with misinformation you aren't doing yourself any favors. Let's just leave it at that.

 

straight from an NGK:

No, the smaller the gap, the stronger the spark is, the larger the gap provides a wider flame front which will exhaust the a/f mixture faster, and more effectively. The sensor however with the smaller gap will be able to make the corrections to the a/f mixture to lean out during bottom end operations to improve mileage. Doug



Doug Morrison CSP

OEM & OES Sales Manager

Technical Service Manager

National Race Coordinator

ISO Internal Auditor

 

1. Ask him which one produces more voltage, since that's what matters in automotive applications. He's right that the larger gap will provide a larger flame front because of a larger spark due to a HIGHER VOLTAGE.

2. That doesn't mean anything to me. I still know I'm right. A larger gap provides a larger amount of voltage because the transformer (The coil) has to produce it to jump the gap. I'm not talking about current...or more reliability...I'm talking about the pure hotness of the spark.

Now, if you're referring to the fact that a smaller gap will ensure a STRONG spark under high heat/load conditions by presenting LESS RESISTANCE...then you would be right. Higher voltage in the larger gap is what creates the larger spark which creates a more even and powerful burn. Here is a little something from NGK's website which demonstrates this:

3. Gapping

Since the gap size has a direct affect on the spark plug's tip temperature
and on the voltage necessary to ionize (light) the air/fuel mixture, careful attention is required. While it is a popular misconception that plugs are pre-gapped from the factory, the fact remains that the gap must be adjusted for the vehicle that the spark plug is intended for. Those with modified engines must remember that a modified engine with higher compression or forced induction will typically require a smaller gap settings (to ensure ignitability
in these denser air/fuel mixtures). As a rule, the more power you are making, the smaller the gap you will need. (The smaller gap helps to produce a STRONG and THOROUGH spark, not a more HOT and EFFICIENT spark)
A spark plug's voltage requirement is directly proportionate to the gap size. The larger the gap, the more voltage is needed to bridge the gap. Most experienced tuners know that opening gaps up to present a larger spark to the air/fuel mixture maximizes burn efficiency. It is for this reason that most racers add high power ignition systems. The added power allows them to open the gap yet still provide a strong spark.

With this mind, many think the larger the gap the better. In fact, some aftermarket ignition systems boast that their systems can tolerate gaps that are extreme. Be wary of such claims. In most cases, the largest gap you can run may still be smaller than you think.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...tion/index.asp

If you put a smaller gap on an unmodified van for instance, there will be a power loss. Reason being is that the smaller gap produces a smaller, lower voltage spark that will not ignite the fuel as efficiently as possible. You are simple misunderstanding the theory and what I said. If you want to ensure a solid/strong spark in a FI engine gap it smaller.....but still gap it as high as possible as this will up the voltage and potential power.

 

i just installed the autolite spark plugs , apparently one guy that i know told me he tried a whole bunch of plugs on dynos and found the autolites the best for the ss supercharged espacially with stage 2. so far i have to say i see no significant improvement but how much can u expect from just spark plugs right? i do feel the car runs smoother though

2005 arrival blue cobalt SS supercharged
Gm stage 2
autolite spark plugs
injen cold air and Gmpp performance exaust coming very soon

 

what was the part number? for the autolights. ?