2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

under drive pulley information

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Old Jun 23, 2009 | 10:10 PM
  #51  
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It's not off balance. But, it may allow for excessive high RPM vibration that could cause excessive wear or damage for your crank and associated parts.
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Old Jun 23, 2009 | 10:39 PM
  #52  
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1. THIS PULLEY IS NOT LIGHTER THAN STOCK: This billet crankshaft power pulley has a REDUCED DIAMETER to minimize the horsepower robbing drag of the alternator and air conditioning compressor. IT DOES NOT FIT AN LSJ READ ON"
This crank pulley would not fit the 2.0L LSJ. The naturally aspirated ECOtec engines (L61 and LE5) have a 6-bolt crank, while the boosted ECOtec engines (LSJ and LNF) have an 8-bolt crank. The GMPP crank pulley is made for a 6-bolt crank. The purpose of the billet crank pulley is to withstand the rigors of racing applications that involve extended time on the rev limiter.
2. Smaller supercharger pullies ahve nothing to do with the crank pulleu
3. Victory Red did hurt his car with a lite wt crank pulley
4. Harmonic dampers are good.
5. Ecotec is fine at the crank nose until you screw with it MAKE IT LITER and get more power
6. Lite pulley tears up crank timing gears. SEE #3
7. The article there has a source quoted at the bottom: I suggest you buy the book.
8 MEH

Originally Posted by 07MetallicSC
what part do balance shafts play in the internals of the motor?
we can get neutral balance shafts
also as said above gm offers a lightweight crank pulley as well.

im not arguing you nor the article im just trying to better understand it for myself
BILLET DOES NOT MEAN LIGHTER. GM PULLEY IS NOT FOR LSJ. ARRGGHHHH

Last edited by qwikredline; Jun 23, 2009 at 10:40 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Jun 23, 2009 | 10:41 PM
  #53  
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From: Still fixing others mistakes.
Originally Posted by qwikredline
1. THIS PULLEY IS NOT LIGHTER THAN STOCK: This billet crankshaft power pulley has a REDUCED DIAMETER to minimize the horsepower robbing drag of the alternator and air conditioning compressor. IT DOES NOT FIT AN LSJ READ ON"
This crank pulley would not fit the 2.0L LSJ. The naturally aspirated ECOtec engines (L61 and LE5) have a 6-bolt crank, while the boosted ECOtec engines (LSJ and LNF) have an 8-bolt crank. The GMPP crank pulley is made for a 6-bolt crank. The purpose of the billet crank pulley is to withstand the rigors of racing applications that involve extended time on the rev limiter.
2. Smaller supercharger pullies ahve nothing to do with the crank pulleu
3. Victory Red did hurt his car with a lite wt crank pulley
4. Harmonic dampers are good.
5. Ecotec is fine at the crank nose until you screw with it MAKE IT LITER and get more power
6. Lite pulley tears up crank timing gears. SEE #3
7. The article there has a source quoted at the bottom: I suggest you buy the book.
8 MEH



BILLET DOES NOT MEAN LIGHTER. GM PULLEY IS NOT FOR LSJ. ARRGGHHHH
we already had this talk
lol
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Old Jun 23, 2009 | 10:42 PM
  #54  
qwikredline's Avatar
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From: Port Perry Ontario
Originally Posted by Maxim_X
It's not off balance. But, it may allow for excessive high RPM vibration that could cause excessive wear or damage for your crank and associated parts.
FINALLY Good one.Maxim rocks. I will run an exedyhyper single, keep it to 7k max my car will last a long time.
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Old Jun 23, 2009 | 10:45 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by qwikredline
FINALLY Good one.Maxim rocks. I will run an exedyhyper single, keep it to 7k max my car will last a long time.
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Old Jun 23, 2009 | 10:47 PM
  #56  
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From: Land of Freedom
Originally Posted by qwikredline
1. THIS PULLEY IS NOT LIGHTER THAN STOCK: This billet crankshaft power pulley has a REDUCED DIAMETER to minimize the horsepower robbing drag of the alternator and air conditioning compressor. IT DOES NOT FIT AN LSJ READ ON"
This crank pulley would not fit the 2.0L LSJ. The naturally aspirated ECOtec engines (L61 and LE5) have a 6-bolt crank, while the boosted ECOtec engines (LSJ and LNF) have an 8-bolt crank. The GMPP crank pulley is made for a 6-bolt crank. The purpose of the billet crank pulley is to withstand the rigors of racing applications that involve extended time on the rev limiter.
2. Smaller supercharger pullies ahve nothing to do with the crank pulleu
3. Victory Red did hurt his car with a lite wt crank pulley
4. Harmonic dampers are good.
5. Ecotec is fine at the crank nose until you screw with it MAKE IT LITER and get more power
6. Lite pulley tears up crank timing gears. SEE #3
7. The article there has a source quoted at the bottom: I suggest you buy the book.
8 MEH



BILLET DOES NOT MEAN LIGHTER. GM PULLEY IS NOT FOR LSJ. ARRGGHHHH
as area said were already past that.....
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Old Jun 23, 2009 | 10:53 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Area47
i would prefer to take my information from much better sources.

wasn't it victory red ss's DD car **** itself and destroy a crank? didn't it also have a lightened crank pulley on it?
Originally Posted by Rodimus_Prime
ive never saw a single bottom end failure in any ecotec engine as a result of a lightened crank pulley and thats since 2002
For what it is worth, I have both built my fair share of race and daily driver motors and broken them. (cranks, blocks, pistons, rods, ect.) In my life time I have not seen a failure due to an under drive pulley or light weight pulley setup.

Now with that being said, I have seen excessive wear on cranks and journals because of the incorrect weight off set on flex plates / flywheels. But that is extremely noticeable due to excessive vibrations. It feels like the motor is trying to come apart from the inside.

I noticed the comment about creating crack seal leaks over time. That happens with out under drive pulleys just as much as it does with them.

Unfortunately this will be one of those topics where until a completely stock car with only a lightweight pulley grenades itself, it will be a debate.

Also FWIW, an under drive pulley on a S/C setup would create less boost from a pulley upgrade. Under drives are designed to slow the belt rotation and in theory free up HP. You typically see poor charging, power steering response and coolant flow with the more aggressively (smaller) crank, alternator and water pump pulleys.
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Old Jun 23, 2009 | 11:53 PM
  #58  
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From: Land of Freedom
Originally Posted by NVMYCOBALTSS
For what it is worth, I have both built my fair share of race and daily driver motors and broken them. (cranks, blocks, pistons, rods, ect.) In my life time I have not seen a failure due to an under drive pulley or light weight pulley setup.

Now with that being said, I have seen excessive wear on cranks and journals because of the incorrect weight off set on flex plates / flywheels. But that is extremely noticeable due to excessive vibrations. It feels like the motor is trying to come apart from the inside.

I noticed the comment about creating crack seal leaks over time. That happens with out under drive pulleys just as much as it does with them.

Unfortunately this will be one of those topics where until a completely stock car with only a lightweight pulley grenades itself, it will be a debate.

Also FWIW, an under drive pulley on a S/C setup would create less boost from a pulley upgrade. Under drives are designed to slow the belt rotation and in theory free up HP. You typically see poor charging, power steering response and coolant flow with the more aggressively (smaller) crank, alternator and water pump pulleys.
im with you.

I mainly want it just to get through the rpms faster
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 12:54 AM
  #59  
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From: Still fixing others mistakes.
weight is the key to it.

want to get through the rpms faster? add more power.
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 09:39 AM
  #60  
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i remember this discussion.

on a different forum.
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 09:59 AM
  #61  
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From: Land of Freedom
Originally Posted by Area47
weight is the key to it.

want to get through the rpms faster? add more power.
lol i know that but when i have my build where i want it, which i have just a few things to button up im planning on doing it with whats there
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 02:24 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Area47
weight is the key to it.

want to get through the rpms faster? add more power.
QFT!

So is a simple clutch upgrade going to cause these types of problems, IF the stock flywheel is kept (resurfaced, or replaced with OEM part)? I am thinking it would not, but I want to make sure my brain is functioning correctly.
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 07:02 PM
  #63  
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I just want to clarify sdomething here for myself. Hopefully qwik or area can confirm or correct this.

Neutral balance shafts/balance shaft deletes are completely safe because:
1: it is not attached to the crank, it is merely driven from the crank, like a typical accessory would be
2: stock shafts aren't balanced in the first place
3: they work by creating vibrations (that just happen to be opposing vibrations caused by the engine, making the ride feel smoother) and not dampening existing ones
4: they effectively add an equal but opposite stress to the equation, and since they do not help stabilize/balance the rotating assembly, removing them will do no more than remove the added stresses and reduce load placed on the crank (at the cost of no longer having these opposing forces, so you will feel more vibrations while driving the car)

This is how I understand it. Is this correct?

thanks for the post by the way Area. clarified a couple things for me
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 07:11 PM
  #64  
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Thank you kind sir.

Was always curious about these kinds of modifications.
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