upgrade intercooler pump, i have pics
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From: Abbotsford BC
best way to tell is with the car running, pull the cap off the intercooler filler tube. if you see coolant flowing, its good. if its not doing anything, its junk.
it is something thats covered under powertrain warrenty, however they can deny it if you have any mods to the intercooler system, IE dual pass, 2nd heat exchanger, ect.
it is something thats covered under powertrain warrenty, however they can deny it if you have any mods to the intercooler system, IE dual pass, 2nd heat exchanger, ect.
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From: Milwaukee/Wisconsin
Should the pump turn on right away? i started my car this morning ran it for a couple minutes until coolant temp on gauge was around 135 no flow in intercooler fill tube. does it have to be at Normal operating temp to turn on? or should it turn on right away?
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From: DFW, TX
I think it should come on as soon as the ingnition is on. if you have enough fluid, I guess it could be possible that you just cant see the turbulance, like its under the surface an inch or so?
You have an interceptor?
You have an interceptor?
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From: MD
It should flow right away when you start the car. You will be able to tell easily if it's flowing. Another thing you can do is pinch the hose on the your right hand side (drivers side) next to the filler neck, the coolant will rise up when you pinch it, if the pump is working, it will continue to rise after the initial pinch.
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From: Abbotsford BC
just thought id throw an update up even though this idea is pretty much dead to most people. this past weekend i went on a roadtrip, 6 hours each way, much of it through the mountains (for anyone that knows bc, went from abbotsford to grand foks via highway 3).
at about 100' above sea level it was 68* ambient and the iat1 was hovering around 70*, the first mountain i climbed head up to 4500', and the first climb is around a 7% grade and you climb that for 5-7 minutes. when i hit the bottom of the hill i was doing 110km/h (just under 70mph) in 5th with the cruise on and i never slowed down. the iat was 88*, once i hit the hill the boost sat around 8psi and the iat2 dropped to 84*. i held 8psi for over 5 minutes and my iat2 stayed at 84* the entire time. now the iat2 did go up in relation to iat1, as that dropped to 68. i was rather impressed with it. through the rest of my trip it maintained 15-20 degrees over iat1 and anytime i got into boost for a pull up a hill iat2 would always drop a couple degrees initially and stayed there. i was rather impressed and this is a good test for me. last year in the same conditions up the same hill with only the 2nd heat exchanger (cobra) i started around 20 over iat1 and it climbed to 40 over iat1 before the top of the hill at which time i back down a bit to let things cool.
cliff notes: climbed a 7% grade at 8psi for more than 5 minutes and the iat2 only gained 2 degrees over iat1
at about 100' above sea level it was 68* ambient and the iat1 was hovering around 70*, the first mountain i climbed head up to 4500', and the first climb is around a 7% grade and you climb that for 5-7 minutes. when i hit the bottom of the hill i was doing 110km/h (just under 70mph) in 5th with the cruise on and i never slowed down. the iat was 88*, once i hit the hill the boost sat around 8psi and the iat2 dropped to 84*. i held 8psi for over 5 minutes and my iat2 stayed at 84* the entire time. now the iat2 did go up in relation to iat1, as that dropped to 68. i was rather impressed with it. through the rest of my trip it maintained 15-20 degrees over iat1 and anytime i got into boost for a pull up a hill iat2 would always drop a couple degrees initially and stayed there. i was rather impressed and this is a good test for me. last year in the same conditions up the same hill with only the 2nd heat exchanger (cobra) i started around 20 over iat1 and it climbed to 40 over iat1 before the top of the hill at which time i back down a bit to let things cool.
cliff notes: climbed a 7% grade at 8psi for more than 5 minutes and the iat2 only gained 2 degrees over iat1
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Well ive noticed that my coolant doesnt flow into my 2nd coolant tank like it used to when i first put my dual pass on, I have option B, does this mean my IC pump is no good and I need to buy a new one? If so can someone direct me in the right direction. Sorry but 6 pages of ppl arguing does nothing for me. Thanks for those who post useful information. I'd rather replace it with an aftermarket better one than a stock one. Obviously replacing the OEM with another OEM that went bad because it couldnt flow the liquid would be pointless, you would just burn through OEM IC pumps and I dont have a money tree 
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From: GTA
I know that I don't post enough here, but yes my second stock pump is failing.........damn bosch crap, and I replaced a friends car with under 40000km on it.
Thanks for putting up this thread, I have always wondered if there was a better pump. And I will be looking into other options to the stock units.
One question/comment though, I wonder if mounting the pump higher up would keep them from failing so much, I mean all that salt/sand/water/grim can't be good to the internals of the pump.
Zoomer I understand why you post what you did, but really the failure rate is ALOT higher than you think. Most people don't know their pump has failed until they modify their cars and/or get a interceptor. I would put $20 down that over 25% of all stock cobalt/redlines with over 50,000km have failed.
Thanks for putting up this thread, I have always wondered if there was a better pump. And I will be looking into other options to the stock units.
One question/comment though, I wonder if mounting the pump higher up would keep them from failing so much, I mean all that salt/sand/water/grim can't be good to the internals of the pump.
Zoomer I understand why you post what you did, but really the failure rate is ALOT higher than you think. Most people don't know their pump has failed until they modify their cars and/or get a interceptor. I would put $20 down that over 25% of all stock cobalt/redlines with over 50,000km have failed.
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Joined: 02-03-08
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From: Port Perry Ontario
just thought id throw an update up even though this idea is pretty much dead to most people. this past weekend i went on a roadtrip, 6 hours each way, much of it through the mountains (for anyone that knows bc, went from abbotsford to grand foks via highway 3).
at about 100' above sea level it was 68* ambient and the iat1 was hovering around 70*, the first mountain i climbed head up to 4500', and the first climb is around a 7% grade and you climb that for 5-7 minutes. when i hit the bottom of the hill i was doing 110km/h (just under 70mph) in 5th with the cruise on and i never slowed down. the iat was 88*, once i hit the hill the boost sat around 8psi and the iat2 dropped to 84*. i held 8psi for over 5 minutes and my iat2 stayed at 84* the entire time. now the iat2 did go up in relation to iat1, as that dropped to 68. i was rather impressed with it. through the rest of my trip it maintained 15-20 degrees over iat1 and anytime i got into boost for a pull up a hill iat2 would always drop a couple degrees initially and stayed there. i was rather impressed and this is a good test for me. last year in the same conditions up the same hill with only the 2nd heat exchanger (cobra) i started around 20 over iat1 and it climbed to 40 over iat1 before the top of the hill at which time i back down a bit to let things cool.
cliff notes: climbed a 7% grade at 8psi for more than 5 minutes and the iat2 only gained 2 degrees over iat1
at about 100' above sea level it was 68* ambient and the iat1 was hovering around 70*, the first mountain i climbed head up to 4500', and the first climb is around a 7% grade and you climb that for 5-7 minutes. when i hit the bottom of the hill i was doing 110km/h (just under 70mph) in 5th with the cruise on and i never slowed down. the iat was 88*, once i hit the hill the boost sat around 8psi and the iat2 dropped to 84*. i held 8psi for over 5 minutes and my iat2 stayed at 84* the entire time. now the iat2 did go up in relation to iat1, as that dropped to 68. i was rather impressed with it. through the rest of my trip it maintained 15-20 degrees over iat1 and anytime i got into boost for a pull up a hill iat2 would always drop a couple degrees initially and stayed there. i was rather impressed and this is a good test for me. last year in the same conditions up the same hill with only the 2nd heat exchanger (cobra) i started around 20 over iat1 and it climbed to 40 over iat1 before the top of the hill at which time i back down a bit to let things cool.
cliff notes: climbed a 7% grade at 8psi for more than 5 minutes and the iat2 only gained 2 degrees over iat1
I know that I don't post enough here, but yes my second stock pump is failing.........damn bosch crap, and I replaced a friends car with under 40000km on it.
Thanks for putting up this thread, I have always wondered if there was a better pump. And I will be looking into other options to the stock units.
One question/comment though, I wonder if mounting the pump higher up would keep them from failing so much, I mean all that salt/sand/water/grim can't be good to the internals of the pump.
Zoomer I understand why you post what you did, but really the failure rate is ALOT higher than you think. Most people don't know their pump has failed until they modify their cars and/or get a interceptor. I would put $20 down that over 25% of all stock cobalt/redlines with over 50,000km have failed.
Thanks for putting up this thread, I have always wondered if there was a better pump. And I will be looking into other options to the stock units.
One question/comment though, I wonder if mounting the pump higher up would keep them from failing so much, I mean all that salt/sand/water/grim can't be good to the internals of the pump.
Zoomer I understand why you post what you did, but really the failure rate is ALOT higher than you think. Most people don't know their pump has failed until they modify their cars and/or get a interceptor. I would put $20 down that over 25% of all stock cobalt/redlines with over 50,000km have failed.
Zoomer is right the pump is not as bad as folks make out, but look at it this way. Good iridium NGK spark plugs are about 14 bux x 4 so say 50 bux a set wholesale and you replace them often if you are modded. A new pump is 100 bux and replace it every 50 k miles? Few folks here will be turning 100k miles they will have left the building long before then....
But you are right winter is awful, just wrecks a car all that stuff they put on the roads coz they all wanna drive like they live in Florida and cant drive anyway.
So I put the RL away these days and drive the faithful 500k Chevy 4x4 pick me up truck with rusty fenders...
Last edited by qwikredline; Dec 6, 2009 at 10:53 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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From: GTA
Zoomer is right the pump is not as bad as folks make out, but look at it this way. Good iridium NGK spark plugs are about 14 bux x 4 so say 50 bux a set wholesale and you replace them often if you are modded. A new pump is 100 bux and replace it every 50 k miles? Few folks here will be turning 100k miles they will have left the building long before then....
But you are right winter is awful, just wrecks a car all that stuff they put on the roads coz they all wanna drive like they live in Florida and cant drive anyway.
So I put the RL away these days and drive the faithful 500k Chevy 4x4 pick me up truck with rusty fenders...
But you are right winter is awful, just wrecks a car all that stuff they put on the roads coz they all wanna drive like they live in Florida and cant drive anyway.
So I put the RL away these days and drive the faithful 500k Chevy 4x4 pick me up truck with rusty fenders...
I am looking into a 100% duty cycle 12v salt water submersible bilge pump.......**** if it can sit in salt water and still work thats good enough for me.....also has ball bearing motor, brass impeller (not like zoomer shown though) and has 20gph flow rate. Again the size and amperage is higher than stock, but similar to the one that sharkey used.
Jer
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From: Port Perry Ontario
I didn't mean that the pump part was bad, the pump itself is well designed and does produce very well for the size/weight, what I have issues is with the motor and the poor quality of the internals/wiring. It isn't as water proof as you believe, and the connections inside leave lots to be desired.
I am looking into a 100% duty cycle 12v salt water submersible bilge pump.......**** if it can sit in salt water and still work thats good enough for me.....also has ball bearing motor, brass impeller (not like zoomer shown though) and has 20gph flow rate. Again the size and amperage is higher than stock, but similar to the one that sharkey used.
Jer
I am looking into a 100% duty cycle 12v salt water submersible bilge pump.......**** if it can sit in salt water and still work thats good enough for me.....also has ball bearing motor, brass impeller (not like zoomer shown though) and has 20gph flow rate. Again the size and amperage is higher than stock, but similar to the one that sharkey used.
Jer
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From: GTA
I picked up a Jabsco marine use pump, 100% duty cycle, bilge pump, good for use on salt water and various other liquids, getting it installed was a bit of a bitch, it is a little bit bigger than stock, but also its all alum/steel, no plastic crap, the new pump is working great, running aprox 5 degrees cooler at 120km/h than the stock pump. Currently with a steady speed I am noticing a 32-34 degree difference between IAT1 and IAT2, and the temps drop really fast after boost runs.
Found out whats wrong with the POS bosch pumps, at about 50k the brushes on the motor fail..............mine barely had any brush left before the wire on the brush contacted the armature, there was barely any pressure on the springs holding the brush to the motor, also the pump was FULL of carbon from the brushes, probably didn't help anything out.
What I don't understand, is why they don't use a DC brushless motor, or maybe a brush design that lasts longer, all alternators that I have seen use brushes, and the last time I have done a brush job on a alt was on my 81 chevette......
Jer
Found out whats wrong with the POS bosch pumps, at about 50k the brushes on the motor fail..............mine barely had any brush left before the wire on the brush contacted the armature, there was barely any pressure on the springs holding the brush to the motor, also the pump was FULL of carbon from the brushes, probably didn't help anything out.
What I don't understand, is why they don't use a DC brushless motor, or maybe a brush design that lasts longer, all alternators that I have seen use brushes, and the last time I have done a brush job on a alt was on my 81 chevette......
Jer
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From: GTA
Technically the pump is not "serviceable" since you can't unbolt the casing, you have to bend some tabs on the casing to remove the endplate. Also not sure where you would get brushes for that unit, I've never seen a repair kit like they make for alternators.
OneCold, how many miles you got on the new pump?
Jer
OneCold, how many miles you got on the new pump?
Jer
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From: akrowdy (akron Ohio)
I picked up a Jabsco marine use pump, 100% duty cycle, bilge pump, good for use on salt water and various other liquids, getting it installed was a bit of a bitch, it is a little bit bigger than stock, but also its all alum/steel, no plastic crap, the new pump is working great, running aprox 5 degrees cooler at 120km/h than the stock pump. Currently with a steady speed I am noticing a 32-34 degree difference between IAT1 and IAT2, and the temps drop really fast after boost runs.
can you get me a price and item number for this?
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From: GTA
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Joined: 02-03-08
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From: Port Perry Ontario
I picked up a Jabsco marine use pump, 100% duty cycle, bilge pump, good for use on salt water and various other liquids, getting it installed was a bit of a bitch, it is a little bit bigger than stock, but also its all alum/steel, no plastic crap, the new pump is working great, running aprox 5 degrees cooler at 120km/h than the stock pump. Currently with a steady speed I am noticing a 32-34 degree difference between IAT1 and IAT2, and the temps drop really fast after boost runs.
Found out whats wrong with the POS bosch pumps, at about 50k the brushes on the motor fail..............mine barely had any brush left before the wire on the brush contacted the armature, there was barely any pressure on the springs holding the brush to the motor, also the pump was FULL of carbon from the brushes, probably didn't help anything out.
What I don't understand, is why they don't use a DC brushless motor, or maybe a brush design that lasts longer, all alternators that I have seen use brushes, and the last time I have done a brush job on a alt was on my 81 chevette......
Jer
Found out whats wrong with the POS bosch pumps, at about 50k the brushes on the motor fail..............mine barely had any brush left before the wire on the brush contacted the armature, there was barely any pressure on the springs holding the brush to the motor, also the pump was FULL of carbon from the brushes, probably didn't help anything out.
What I don't understand, is why they don't use a DC brushless motor, or maybe a brush design that lasts longer, all alternators that I have seen use brushes, and the last time I have done a brush job on a alt was on my 81 chevette......
Jer
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Joined: 10-10-08
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From: Richmond
I took apart another bad pump from a Cobalt and got it fixed pretty quickly. That makes 2 for 2. If people have some bad pumps I'd be interested in buying them cheap or fixing them for a small fee. LMK.
The Meziere pump is over 5 pounds, more than 3 pounds heavier than the OEM pump. This is 1/3 of a WHP equivilant. I do not believe it outflows a stock pump but even it if did, I don't think it's possible to gain back 1/3 of a HP. I'll run more tests and get more data though...
The Meziere pump is over 5 pounds, more than 3 pounds heavier than the OEM pump. This is 1/3 of a WHP equivilant. I do not believe it outflows a stock pump but even it if did, I don't think it's possible to gain back 1/3 of a HP. I'll run more tests and get more data though...
I think the extra 3lbs is worth it.
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From: Abbotsford BC
its been a long time since ive been on this site, ive been busy with other things and car modding has taken a back seat. i thought i would come back for an update on this thread.
2 years after installing this pump it failed. i put a lot of klicks on in a year, id estimate around 45k km on this pump, working out to aprox. 900 hours, far short of the 3000+ hours meziere claims. it still worked fine, the lower bearing went bad and it had a humming noise. i e-mailed meziere to find out about parts, they dont sell parts and charge $100 to rebuild it, plus shipping costs. for me shipping it around would cost $30 each way, at $160 im better to buy a new pump.
now for some real world performance results. as some may recall, or those that read this whole thread will find out, i did the pump upgrade when i did the dual pass and option b tank, and the stock pump was failing, so i was unable to get a true test of how this pump worked. well, after putting on a known good stock pump i instantly saw an increase of 15 degrees iat2 at cruising speed, and charge temps climb far faster under heavy acceleration.
so there it is. the meziere pump lasted roughly the same amount of time as a stocker and costs roughly twice as much. it does improve cooling, id say roughly as much as adding a second heat exchanger. is it worth the cost? thats up to you to decide.
2 years after installing this pump it failed. i put a lot of klicks on in a year, id estimate around 45k km on this pump, working out to aprox. 900 hours, far short of the 3000+ hours meziere claims. it still worked fine, the lower bearing went bad and it had a humming noise. i e-mailed meziere to find out about parts, they dont sell parts and charge $100 to rebuild it, plus shipping costs. for me shipping it around would cost $30 each way, at $160 im better to buy a new pump.
now for some real world performance results. as some may recall, or those that read this whole thread will find out, i did the pump upgrade when i did the dual pass and option b tank, and the stock pump was failing, so i was unable to get a true test of how this pump worked. well, after putting on a known good stock pump i instantly saw an increase of 15 degrees iat2 at cruising speed, and charge temps climb far faster under heavy acceleration.
so there it is. the meziere pump lasted roughly the same amount of time as a stocker and costs roughly twice as much. it does improve cooling, id say roughly as much as adding a second heat exchanger. is it worth the cost? thats up to you to decide.