Upgrading my cobalt; concerns and advice
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From: 6000ft on a Mountain in Colorado!
Upgrading my cobalt; concerns and advice
Okay,
I'm new to the cobalt world and I'm also new here.
From what I understand, doing anything to your car; Intake, Exhaust, Headers can cause errors and check engine light. Is this true? I do want to get a CAI, GMPP Exhaust, and Headers after I get the GM Stage II, heat exchanger and a Torque Damper, but I don't want a check engine light. What's the way to solve this issue.
Also when I get the Stage II can I add a smaller pulley later on and better injectors without a re-tune or will this cause an error as well? If I do choose to do this, can my local shop retune it or should I just buy the OTTP Kit with PCM replacement instead?
Last but not least, Where can I go from here? My goal is 300hp/320lbs of torque. How else can I achieve this?
Thanks
I'm new to the cobalt world and I'm also new here.
From what I understand, doing anything to your car; Intake, Exhaust, Headers can cause errors and check engine light. Is this true? I do want to get a CAI, GMPP Exhaust, and Headers after I get the GM Stage II, heat exchanger and a Torque Damper, but I don't want a check engine light. What's the way to solve this issue.
Also when I get the Stage II can I add a smaller pulley later on and better injectors without a re-tune or will this cause an error as well? If I do choose to do this, can my local shop retune it or should I just buy the OTTP Kit with PCM replacement instead?
Last but not least, Where can I go from here? My goal is 300hp/320lbs of torque. How else can I achieve this?
Thanks
If you get the Stage 2 and change anything, I'd retune it. The GMS2 tune is very conservative as it is. And a new pulley might mess with it a little bit, but if you added new (bigger) injectors, you'll completely f-up the tune. If I were you I'd probably go with the OTTP kit and then have someone local to you tune it, it'll be a lot better than a canned tune.
And 300whp from the stock M62 blower will only happen with either NOZZZ or a ported head. And 320wtq is turbo numbers haha. I have 303whp with 265wtq. If torque is your goal, then turbo is the way to go.
Oh and as far as the CEL goes, I've had one on for 2 years and I just got used to it
I've tried to have it turned off with HP Tuners which usually works but apparently my car just hates me.
And 300whp from the stock M62 blower will only happen with either NOZZZ or a ported head. And 320wtq is turbo numbers haha. I have 303whp with 265wtq. If torque is your goal, then turbo is the way to go.
Oh and as far as the CEL goes, I've had one on for 2 years and I just got used to it
CAI, GMPP Exhaust, and Headers Torque Damper will not cause a CEL.
If one comes on after you put exhaust on, just unplug the battery for 10 minutes and it should go away.
Put an Injen CAI on mine and never got a CEL.
If one comes on after you put exhaust on, just unplug the battery for 10 minutes and it should go away.
Put an Injen CAI on mine and never got a CEL.
Yeah any CEL you throw because of those parts will probably just be a lean code. Do like 06G85 said and also drive around for a while. Your fuel trims will eventually learn out and the CEL will go away. A retune will help make the most of your parts of course.
that is kinda of a wierd zone right there since 280 ish is kinda the accepted max of most m62 and a good tvs will put down 330+hp and around 300 tq, and getting a turbo kit for those numbers would be a waste of money.
Stage 2 is overly expensive and most people end up pulleying down anyways and GM stage 2 is a horrible place to start because you have to swap injectors anyways.
A common build for most people is
dual pass with option B
Aftermarket heat exchanger (go with OTTP/ZZP)
2.8 pulley (and required pulley system like belts and tensioner pulley)
spark plugs
80 pound injectors if you can run e-85 and have access to HP-tuners
60 pound injectors if no e-85 available
meth in the case you don't have e-85 (tuning necessary)
3 inch intake
longtube / midlength header downpipe combo (OTTP if you got cash otherwise ZZP)
2.5/3 inch catback hahn is said to sound pretty good
IF tuning is not available for you try getting OTTP will send you a tuned PCM
ALSO DO NOT GET TORQUE DAMPENER. Everyone that gets this than switches to OTTP/TTR's rotated mounts.
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From: 6000ft on a Mountain in Colorado!
Okay maybe I was a bit over enthusiastic with my numbers, with my limited car knowledge I guess I want more power with little work. I just wanna put something on tune it and go. I'd have to pay a shop to do everything because I don't have the skills to do it myself.
From what I'm getting from your post is that it's probably better for me to start with a OTTP Stage II instead of a GM then go for exhaust intake etc.
You stated that GM Stage II is a waste, but I found it online for only $560 and Labor for only $250, however the OTTP kit is $580 and Labor is $750 because a dealership won't do it and they won't relearn the crank. So I'm reluctant to get the OTTP kit.
From what I'm getting from your post is that it's probably better for me to start with a OTTP Stage II instead of a GM then go for exhaust intake etc.
You stated that GM Stage II is a waste, but I found it online for only $560 and Labor for only $250, however the OTTP kit is $580 and Labor is $750 because a dealership won't do it and they won't relearn the crank. So I'm reluctant to get the OTTP kit.
Okay maybe I was a bit over enthusiastic with my numbers, with my limited car knowledge I guess I want more power with little work. I just wanna put something on tune it and go. I'd have to pay a shop to do everything because I don't have the skills to do it myself.
From what I'm getting from your post is that it's probably better for me to start with a OTTP Stage II instead of a GM then go for exhaust intake etc.
You stated that GM Stage II is a waste, but I found it online for only $560 and Labor for only $250, however the OTTP kit is $580 and Labor is $750 because a dealership won't do it and they won't relearn the crank. So I'm reluctant to get the OTTP kit.
From what I'm getting from your post is that it's probably better for me to start with a OTTP Stage II instead of a GM then go for exhaust intake etc.
You stated that GM Stage II is a waste, but I found it online for only $560 and Labor for only $250, however the OTTP kit is $580 and Labor is $750 because a dealership won't do it and they won't relearn the crank. So I'm reluctant to get the OTTP kit.
how does the saying go?
reliable power takes money plain and simple.
Were I in your shoes I'd do all GM stage kits;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cobalt_ss#SS_Supercharged
I love how you guys (SS/SC) can set your own rev limit and already have a built in nitrous injection button after Stage III.
you can have only two of the following three:
-cheap
-fast
-reliable
-cheap
-fast
-reliable
Were I in your shoes I'd do all GM stage kits;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cobalt_ss#SS_Supercharged
I love how you guys (SS/SC) can set your own rev limit and already have a built in nitrous injection button after Stage III.
idk i dont have the lsd i jacked up the front of my car and my tires spin the opposite way but doing a burnout both tires spin so its not really that big of a deal is it well for drag racing anyway
I have read one then the other;
I have seen 2007 models w/o G85
IMHO, that is really "small fries"...
To clarify, 'G85' is the option for the LSD;
with the supercharged cars the G85 option included the Recaro seats;
Your cars option codes can be viewed on a sticker that will be affixed to your cars sheet metal in the ruck - you need to lift the rear carpet/tire cover, and look for it (production line workers slap it on, so they are not all in the exact same spot).
Your experience is nothing new, non-LSD cars will still spin both tires ~ just not the same as a true Limited Slip Differential... sorry if that makes no sense.
I have seen 2007 models w/o G85
IMHO, that is really "small fries"...
To clarify, 'G85' is the option for the LSD;
with the supercharged cars the G85 option included the Recaro seats;
Your cars option codes can be viewed on a sticker that will be affixed to your cars sheet metal in the ruck - you need to lift the rear carpet/tire cover, and look for it (production line workers slap it on, so they are not all in the exact same spot).
Your experience is nothing new, non-LSD cars will still spin both tires ~ just not the same as a true Limited Slip Differential... sorry if that makes no sense.
I have LSD and I can care leas if my car flips going around a tight corner! Lol I'm just tired of all the cobalt breakdowns. Like it said up top. U can only pick two. I guess I picked fast and cheap lol but not really. It was breaking down the first day I drove it off the lot. Damn u gm
in one instance it's more of a passive spinning and the drive power is only being transfered to one axle, while with the LSD the drive power is being put to both axles (more or less, is the Quaif/Torsen style LSD - that requires more research to understand).
Then again, I attempted to bring this thread back on topic for vahdyx;
if you want to debate the usefulness of LSD, why not find/make another thread and find someone who can better explain it for you (because I sometimes suck at explaining).
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