that's pretty much what I have, now welded on though

 

The o-ring is what seals not the threads, so make sure the surface is flat where you drill and tap

 

Cool. I'll keep that in mind.

I'm going to look into trying something similar with the Saab/LNF port. I might practice drilling it on my OE block. With the engine on my workbench, it should be just as easy to drill that port and install something similar there.

 

Fun story. I remember you from the old days. I bought my 06 SS/SC in Oct 05.
Still have, still in nice shape, just passed 97k miles.
Stock other than stage 2 and OTTP rotated mounts. I’m a tuner and I did turn off some of the nannies.

Good luck getting yours back on the road!

Ron

 

February 6-7, 2021

Went to the Dallas Central Pick-n-Pull on Saturday morning... there was a fifteen minute wait to get in. I've never had that with a junk yard. Found 3 Cobalts with F23's and started pulling parts from the cleanest one. Pulled the upper trans mount, front trans mount, shifter cables, and the clutch line. I really only need the shifter cables, but was hopeful that I'd be able to get the car together this weekend. Headed home after that - fully intent on working on my engine once I got home - but a car on the interstate threw up a chunk of concrete the size of the moon, and I was a pretty upset about that once I got home and saw the damage (S5 has an OE aluminum hood - doesn't hold up well to heavy impacts). Decided not to go out to the garage in that bad mood.

Sunday around noon the girlfriend and I head out to the garage to do work! I had her run all the bolts/studs into their holes and then torque them down to spec. I was very clear about only running bolts in finger tight and then using the proper torque spec. "Many of these bolts can break fairly easily, so it's very important to follow torque specs."











I was using the LSJ Build Book, since it has been so long since I've timed the engine... I had completely forgotten that they instructed you to put the cam gears on and torque them down... and then it tells you to install the exhaust side chain guide... which you cannot do with the exhaust cam gear mounted. 😐 Got the timing set up all the way, installed the timing cover and valve cover, then started drilling the Saab oil drain port out. On Friday, I had ordered a 23/32" drill bit from Amazon with one day shipping to get it up to size - that's right about what I had measured an LNF block to be. I was a little bit nervous, but it worked out alright; it cut a little rough, even with the slow speed I was going and squirts of oil added from an oil can by my trusty assistant. I took a deburring tool around the lip to try to clean that up a little bit and to make sure a sharp edge didn't kill my o-ring. Test fit my LNF drain fitting into it and it fit like a charm. I shouldn't have any issues with leaking there, but I'll be sure to keep an eye on it.






I was just about ready to pull the engine off the stand to get it ready to be mounted when I remembered that I need to add my turbo oil feed fitting. Pulled it out of the old block and started putting it in the new block. Remember earlier when I mentioned how important torque specs are, especially with things that are easy to break??? Apparently, I'm an ogre and need to take my own advice. I was so excited about potentially getting the engine mounted in the car that evening, that I didn't even think twice about throwing some torque into the brass oil feed fitting while using a 1/2" drive breaker bar.





Luckily it was brass, so it was easy to extract the broken piece - just hammered a large flathead screwdriver into it and twisted it right out. I used a q-tip soaked in oil to grab a couple pieces of broken brass that I saw hanging out on the threads beneath where the fitting was. I'm only slightly paranoid about the possibility of a brass shard hanging out in my engine now. I cleaned the hole up as best I could, then stuck a shop-vac up to it, and then shot some pressurized air into the hole (no oil pan mounted yet... I was hoping to blow it out). I'll cross my fingers and maybe do a 50-100 mile oil change for the first one.

After that I started to grab my oil pan to prep it to be mounted, but it was already 5.30, and I didn't want to continue working in a bad headspace. Called it a night.

So I need to run to Summit and grab new fittings for the oil feed (they have a local warehouse and have them in-stock). I guess I could grab some break-in oil and transmission fluid while I'm there (I need to look into what the F23 takes - it's just ATF, iirc. I have some Motul Gear Oil lying around though - curious if it'd be okay; need to check specs).

I think all I have left is:

• Buy new oil feed fitting(s)
• Engine Oil
• Oil Filter (I think I have one somewhere)
• Transmission Fluid
• Mount flywheel, clutch, pressure plate
• Mount to transmission - grind for fitment
• Mount to cradle first, then raise into car? I think this is how I did it last time... but I can't remember.
• EDIT: REPLACE REAR CRADLE CAGE NUTS.
• Hook everything up.
• DRAIN FUEL TANK... I forgot to do this over the weekend. 3 year old gas. 🤢 I'm going to hope that the Aeromotive pump will be fine. I should probably change the fuel filter too.

I think that's it...

 

Making good progress Man. Keep it up. And brass fitting are weak so not surprised it snapped on you lol. I been there before lol. When I did my steering rack on my car last year I ended up breaking the cage nut and it was a major pain in the ass.

 

Thanks for the reminder on the cage nuts. I need to replace both of my rear cradle cage nuts, as well as my sway bar bushings. I already have the parts... just don't want to forget about them.

 

Fuel and oil filters on the way from NAPA, and made a run to Summit for two adapter fittings (12 mm x 1.75 to 1/8" NPT and an 1/8" NPT to -4 AN), 6 qt of Motul break-in oil (surprisingly the cheapest one that they had in-stock), and 2 L of Motul ATF VI. Put in a small amount of work on the engine last night too. Mounted the water crossover pipe and thermo housing, then installed the two fittings that I picked up, along with the turbo oil feed lines. Grabbed my oil pan and started to scrape the mounting surface clean with a razor. Ended the night with that almost complete.

Which brings the list down to:

• Mount flywheel, clutch, pressure plate
• Mount to transmission - grind for fitment (or swap to air-to-oil, but have to wait on parts + spend money )
• Mount to cradle first, then raise into car? I think this is how I did it last time... but I can't remember.
• Replace rear cradle cage nuts
• Hook everything up.
• DRAIN FUEL TANK. 3 year old gas. 🤢
• Start the car...
• ???
• Break-in [remember to dial boost back from 25 psi to wastegate (15 psi)]

 

February 20, 2021

Had a bit of a freeze and spent about 126 hours without power... so I didn't really work on my car. Funny enough, as soon as I had power again... it was like 60°F... so I went into the garage to mount my oil pan and get a couple things ready for the week.

Oil pan all cleaned up and ready...




Part of the trap door system...



I tried to lay down as thin of an RTV line as I could, and then smooth it out with a razor and remove any excess. It really doesn't take much...







F23 is mounted on the cradle and ready to go. OTTP front and top mount; Powell rear mount (which, if you know their history, might be a little bit sacrilegious )...



The engine bay is the next mess that I need to tackle. Still trying to figure out how I want to put this thing together. I think what I did last time was put engine and trans together on cradle, use cherry picker to lift front of car, use dollies to roll cradle/engine/trans packing into position, lowered cherry picker/car, cherry picked engine/trans/cradle into position. I'm close though. Maybe by this weekend. I was debating swapping out the factory oil cooler, but I think I should just get the thing together and worry about upgrades later.



List still stands at:

• Mount flywheel, clutch, pressure plate
• Mount engine to transmission - grind for fitment
• Replace rear cradle cage nuts
• Mount to cradle first, then raise into car
• Hook everything up.
• DRAIN FUEL TANK. 3 year old gas. 🤢
• Start the car...
• ???
• Break-in [remember to dial boost back from 25 psi to wastegate (15 psi)]

 

Lookin good man. wish I could get started on mine. was going over it yesterday and even the damn seat belts are seized. think I"m going to strip the whole car down and start over. just have to wait on warm weather as the car is outside and there is no room in the garage for it

as for installing the engine, I usually put everything together on the subframe and let it ride on the legs of the hoist to slide it under the car. I use some serious blocks of wood under the jack stands to get the nose up about 6 higher then the stands would go to clear the engine assembly. once motor and subframe are under the car I lower the car back to standard jackstand height and hoist the whole thing up into the engine bay.

since I"ve done this about 100 times by myself I can usually get it from garage floor to mounted in the car and car on the ground in about 45 minutes lol. but older now and haven't touched one of these cars in about 3 years so see how this one goes.

 

Looks good man! I was going to hit up the Decatur swap meet Saturday if the rain stays away.

 

Not sure if this will help or not but I put my cradle on some wheel dollies to slide it in and out. Put the body up on jack stands as high as they go at first. Then take a cherry picker, loop a strap around the crash beam, lift the car high enough to slide the engine under and set the car back down on the jack stands. Then use the cherry picker to lift the engine and cradle into place. Worked like a champ for me at least.

 

The impending rain certainly seems like it'll suck... also a good reason for me to spend a day in the garage, I suppose.

I think I did something very similar the last time I did it... might just do that again. I probably need to get a strap and a chain for my cherry picker. I haven't used it in so long; not sure I have those things anymore.

Thought about hitting a junk yard to try to grab an engine lift hook for the front side of the engine as well... but also imagined that I could figure out a way to just bolt the chain down or something. Maybe put the alternator on and use it.

Just trying to brainstorm all my steps before I get there.

 

I've done it this way before too, pulled the struts off the knuckle to just have less tall things to manage. Didn't have to use a cherry picker around the crash beam, the engine slid in with just enough clearance in the wheel wheel area. When I did my engine I replaced the radiator and pulled the AC condenser out so I went through the front (way easier, but have to remove rad and condenser)

 

March 7, 2021

Went to work on the car around noon and didn't get nearly as much completed as I wanted... partly due to being scatterbrained and doing a bunch of unnecessary side work. I did get the F23 grinded down to fit under the LSJ thermo housing (have to flatten the top of the port that the shift cable bracket bolts onto, and take a sizeable chunk out of the shift cable bracket too). Very large PITA, but I ended up lowering the engine onto two 2x4's and then placed the transmission on a wheel dolly... just about lined up perfectly. It took a lot of frustration to get to that point though.

Dropped the fuel tank and was REALLY hoping that I'd be able to just pour it out of the fill-spout... but that didn't work. Started to pull the pump housing out... and the return line crumbled under its own weight. 😑 Perfect... because those are easy to replace and not expensive [sarcasm alert].

Ended up getting the engine and trans mounted to the cradle by the end of the day, along with the intake manifold, turbo manifold, and turbo.

 

I will tell you this. The Kroger on 26 and precinct line has E85. I was there on Sunday.

 

You don't say.........







I've been running a blend of it for about 2 months now. Can't keep my foot out of it; getting about 16 MPG average now.

 

We were at Chans on Saturday. I had to put gas in my wifes grandmas car and I saw it. I was working in your neck of the woods yesterday. Rufe snow and Hightower.

 

I was pretty excited when I realized it. Even more excited when I realized my car has widebands and will adjust itself. Allegedly picked up another 20-30 hp running an E30 blend on the Race Gas map.

I've seen a lot of cool cars over there when I fill up, too. A couple S550 Mustangs, new Supra, SCAT pack Charger, and a bunch of heavy cammed GM stuff - trucks, G8, SS, CTS-V. The cammed out trucks are always the funniest to me.

 

The agreed with cammed out trucks are always funny. I really like the options for my ram as far as cams go. Its tempting since it has a unlocked computer. I am also debating doing the 8 speed swap. My 6 speed is awful and the MDS really hurts it unless you in tow haul all the time.

 

March 20, 2021

Did a little work during the week (Thursday the 18th), but it was really just putting on the downpipe and the accessories. I didn't pay attention to the orientation of the turbo's V-Band clamp when I put that on (I'm usually very OCD about clocking these just right so it's easy to loosen/remove when installed on the car). I installed it so it was easy to install at the time (wasn't thinking - was tired from work). -_-

Went out to the garage Saturday afternoon, setup Radio Le Mans to listen to their broadcast of the 12 Hours of Sebring, and got to work on this got-damn car. It was a day full of doing things... and then undoing some things, so that I could do some associate sub-system thing. **** explanation, but I'll explain later.



Notice that I don't have the A/C compressor mounted... I'll change my mind about this later in the day.




Put the axles in, jacked the car up, rolled the hoist over. Went ahead and bolted the struts on right after I took this picture, as well.




Slow and steady process. Lower it a bit; check my clearances. Lower it a bit; check my clearances. Repeat x10. Lined the struts up first, then worked on the cradle bolt alignment.




Had everything juuuuust about lined up here. First instance of undoing something to redo it. I had the passenger side hoist cabled looped around the engine half of the engine mount. Once everything was lined up and I ran the cradle, trans mount, and engine mount bolts in... it hit me. ****. I have to remove the ENTIRE car-half of the engine mount to remove the hoist cable. 😑 Also take note of the pyrometer sensor that is looped around and hanging from the brake fluid reservoir. This bit me in the ass later on... I should have inserted that BEFORE I bolted the cradle in place. NOTICE that the A/C compressor is now on the block.




Engine, trans, and cradle bolted into place. Hoist is no longer needed! I started hitting a bunch of snags and struggles after this, so I kind of stopped taking pictures.




First snag that I wasted probably an hour, hour and a half on... shift cables. The routing of the F23 shift cables sucks... just generally. On my specific turbo LSJ, it really sucks, as popping them into place on the transmission was hampered by them needing to be routed directly through the area that my turbo downpipe occupied. 😑 That took a good long while... and a lot of frustration... to resolve. Follow that up with me in the car. The passenger side shifter clamp popped down right away - no problem. The driver's side, however, I still have not been able to get it to clamp down. Even trying it with pliers, it would. not. snap. down. I gave up knowing that if I didn't, I'd end up breaking something. Pretty sure I have them located on the appropriate sides... but it's entirely possible that they've been flipped and that the ribbed/grippy parts are different diameters... this thought is occurring to me as I type this out. I color matched their orientation based on the F35 cables that I pulled out though. I dunno. I'm stuck here.




After this, I spent a few hours properly routing all the wiring. This proved to be a little bit problematic, but not too much. The gap between the oil cooler and the transmission is much tighter with the F23 vs F35. This became a small problem with routing the over-trans section of the wiring. So I'd connect a bit... then have to un-connect and reroute parts here and there. Also, a lot of the electrical tape at the ends of sensors was just falling apart and dangling... so I took time to replace a lot of this dangling mess. Ultimately decided it wasn't worth the time (at this moment) and moved on. Follow all that with a continued reminder that I hate working on Cobalts. I have been spoiled with VW/Audi stuff; I find them so much easier to work on. Connecting the heater hoses to the firewall. PITA. Too much crap in the way to make the clamps easily accessible. Then I found out that I cannot insert my EGT sensor with the downpipe bolted in place. Doesn't help that the pyrometer port is in a very hard-to-reach position. That took time to solve. Finished routing and re-routing wiring and started to put my fuse box together. [If you ever watched Scrubs, and remember in Season 2 when the opera singer follows JD around singing "MISTAAAAAAAAAAAKE!!!"... this is where he'd sing it for me. ] Fuse box fully together... well ****... the coolant reservoir has to go on first. Remove fuse box. Put coolant reservoir in. Reinstall fuse box. Fuel lines, fuel rail, coolant bleeder, misc nuts and bolts here and there, filled the engine with oil... and that's a wrap for the night. Called it quits around 9.30p to go inside and eat.




I need to torque the cradle bolts to spec, figure out my shift cable problem, put all the charge piping on, bleed the brakes and bleed the clutch, mount the crash bar w/ intercooler, install radiator & A/C condenser, fill the coolant reservoir with water (anti-freeze is for suckers), swap out the fuel pump on my new fuel sending unit, re-install fuel tank, pour in some gasoline, install battery, install headlights and front bumper... and turn the key? I think that's it.

 

Nice progress! I have been following your progress!

 

Nice progress, it's frustrating but rewarding once it turns over

 

That's what I keep in mind when I'm yelling **** and **** at the top of my lungs.

"Just think about hearing it spool again..."

 

It's all about the stu stu