I will send the before and after dont worry. Tell me billy, the scoring in the cylinders were initially on the exhaust side at tdc. The scoring in the pic I sent you are only on the exhaust side at tdc... No where else in the cylinder. I could see if the cylinders weren't cleaned properly that they were scored all the way around but it isn't. You're right, grooves don't appear out of nowhere. But what you don't realize is when they are already there and the piston rings start creating friction on them the scoring can get worse.

Which is still a separate issue on the rod bearing getting tight at 7800rpm.

 

Would like to see some cylinder measurements

 

6 measurements

Top in line with the crank and 90°
Mid
Bottom

 

Wasn't there also a problem with the balance shafts being all scored up and taking out the balance shaft bearings??due to them not being a hardened shaft? Could this of caused some of the other damage?

 

We first suspected the NBS to be the problem, but when we pulled the front cover in my shop and spun them they spun so freely. When he took them out though I believe they were scored a bit.

 

They had a little but nothing even remotely worth causing a failure. It was just an initial idea when I read what happened to Tjolley's shafts.

 

Ya mine r still stuck in the block.

 

Lol that's the first thing that popped in my head when the motor got tight

 

 

Lmao

 

Well that sucks.

You took a chance, crossed your fingers, gambled and lost.

Shitty circumstances all around.

 

Lets see some pictures

 

I've been stupid busy lately. The motor is at my buddies shop. Just been focusing on getting my car 100% ready for the dyno and track. Doesn't matter anyways. Pictures are just going to start **** on something that won't change in the end. Just turn into a bitching match. I know the motor was assembled improperly and also wasn't told things about the motor upon receiving it. Just wanted to share my experience because billy was avoiding talking to me.

 

I'll post the pics of the scoring the entire way down the cylinder. I didn't realize tdc was 3/4 of the cylinder. I must have learned wrong :rollseyes:

 

Here we go again... It's scored because of the scoring that was already on the cylinder that the hone wouldnt take out when I received the motor. You want to say its something else? Why was it nowhere else around the rest of the cylinder? I can take pics of other cylinders how I got the motor from you. #4 was just the worst.

Secondly, wanna explain how the bottom rod being magically got tight once I spun the motor to 7800 rpm and it got some heat in it, which then released once the motor cooled down?

 

bottom rod..........?

 

Sorry supposed to say rod bearing not being. Damn auto correct.

Screw it, next time I'm at the shop I will take pics of EVERYTHING. Top end, bottom end, all of it. May be a while till I'm there next tho.

The top end wasn't even the reason why I took this motor apart. It was all due to the bottom end getting tight. The top end is just something I noticed after the motor came apart.

 

It was contaminated. That's scored the cylinder and any contaminate on a rod bearing is not good

 

what do you think a freshly built motor is full of when breaking in all new parts? Contamination... Perhaps if I filled the motor with sand and drove it you may be right.

The cylinders were cleaned and reoiled. When I pulled the pan off it was spotless and still covered in assembly lube.

 

How long did you break it in for? And how many oil changes?

 

I ran break in oil for about 150 miles then changed to it out. Then it called er quits at about 1000

 

Oil really dirty on the first change?

 

Not at all. This isn't my first motor rebuild. Hell I rebuild crotch rockets that spin to 15k+.

Whatever this is a never ending battle that will go nowhere. Lesson learnt on my behalf and that's it.

 

I'm not saying your at fault, I am simply trying to get an idea of how I am going to do my break in

 

Oh sorry man I didn't take it that way at all. No need to over think it. Run it with break in or conventional oil for a couple hundred miles, dump it out and put in whatever it is you run for oil.