Jdam8139

So I was just about to order the zzp 3" intake and I came up with a question....

It might be a stupid one, but does the zzp bolt up with no fab or other mods? On zzp's site it says most other intakes are 2.5", but does that mean that the 3" requires something special? I looked around on here and from what i read the zzp intake makes the s/c really scream, so i'd love to get it, but am I going to regret it?

The reason I ask is because I dont have a lot of free time other than the weekends (and sometimes even that time gets eaten up). I work anywhere from 50-65 hours a week. Just wanted to know if this intake was worth the time and money...

1fastSSBalt

iTrader: (4)

No it is an easy install....depending on the year of your car you may have to kind of push the brake lines for the abs down a little but it will fit

insylem

It fit right up with mine. It was a bitch to get installed though, it came in sections, and the flex/rubber peices were tight on the metal peices makeing it hard to adjust.
The install was a bitch, but I got it. I LOVE it, it was well worth
the trouble to install and the money to buy!

EDIT For clarity:
What im saying is, the actual install, positioning is a pain in the ass.
But,
The connections, and everything all fit together. Save your stock
hardware, beucase the ZZP Intake does not come with its own.
Also there are no install direcetions either.

1fastSSBalt

iTrader: (4)

Needed tools:
1x Impact gun
1x 3/4 socket for lug nut removal
1x small flat head screwdriver to remove pin key/clip and or
1x clip popping tool to avoid damaging the clip upon removal
1x 7 or 8 mm socket/ratchet
1x Nut driver/phillips head screw driver to tighten/loosen hose clamps
1x ratcheting wrench or deep socket to remove the washer/nut combo(forget the size maybe 10 or 13 mm)


To install this item what I did was first jack the car up off the ground pretty high. Place jack stands for safety, never work under or a near a car that isn't being supported on jack stands. Make sure the handle of the jack is returned to the upright position so it doesn't become a trip hazard.

Next I used a 3/4 chrome socket to remove the driver front wheel lug nuts(helps if you have an impact gun)and set the wheel and lug nuts out of the way. Make sure you lay the tire down with the chrome facing up as not to damage the surface.

Next you have to remove the driver side plastic fender wells. You will need a flat head screw driver to pry under the plastic clip key if you will and pull that all the way out then use the screw driver or a clip pulling tool to pop the big clip out. Next you will have to use I believe a 7 or 8 MM socket to remove all the screws inside holding this fender well in place which they go under the front bumper as well that mounts to a piece that acts as a splash guard.

Once all the bolts have been taken off, pull the fender well out. This takes some patience and remember how you took it out, that will be how it goes back in.

Now with all that done the air intake should be visible. It is being held to the car with a bolt/washer combo nut that you take off(keep this nut for the install of the ZZP intake). There is a wire harness that attaches to the MAF sensor. It is hard to get to so take your time to unplug that harness and once you do if there is a visible hose clamp using either a socket(gives better grip to loosen the clamp)or a screw driver(forgive me this is all coming out of my head from months ago when I did mine I could be mistaken about a hose clamp being on the bottom half). Now you are ready to remove this entire piece.

Open the hood and pull the vaccuum hose that is attached to the intake tubing(use a pair of pliers but I found small pair of channel locks to be the best on that metal clamp) and begin to loosen the hose clamps off the top of the intake tube and anywhere you see one on the intake tubing as it will help to pull this out in the x amount of pieces it is in(believe it is a two piece deal). Pull the pieces apart and remove the factory intake tubing/filter.

Hopefully you played with this ZZP cai a little like put it together to get an idea of how it is suppose to fit and what not. Look at pictures of it to help clarify position(s) of the rubber tube connectors.

I started off by attaching the top cai tube to the throttle body using the short and stubby rubber connector piece with a hose clamp at the left of it then put the cai tube on(at this point there should be two hose clamps on the short rubber connector one to tight to the throttle body and one to tighten to the cai tube). Now at the other end of the short tube you may notice it could be hitting the brake lines for the ABS block if that is the case all I did is apply slight pressure with my palms pushing down ward until they slightly bent without pinching the lines til the tube could clear it. Now put a hose clamp on it and then that elongated oval like shaped rubber piece that connects the bottom/filter tubing to the top half.

Once you get to this part stop the install and go back to the factory intake and remove that MAF sensor by taking off both phillip head screws. This part can be trick as there is an Arrow that shows the air flow movement make sure the MAF sensor gets installed on the new ZZP cai tube the same way it came off the factory tube.

Once that is on plug in the MAF sensor harness and attached the air filter to the bottom of the tube with a hose clamp.

Now slide another hose clamp over(this will clamp the bottom tube to the elongated oval like shaped rubber connector) and fit the bottom tube in until that rubber connectors is around the tube, sealed and far enough in so the hose clamp can be slid up on to it and clamp down.

Now use that nut/washer combo to bolt the ZZP 3" cai tube to the car like the oem one. At this point the only clamps to be tightened are the air filter, throttle body the clamp right after the throttle body and the clamp that is holding the elongated oval rubber connector on the top of the tubing. This will allow you to play with the position of the bottom piping so it can be bolted down and at a good angle. This will take some playing with to maneuverer until it is in the right position.

Final steps of the install tighten all the clamps down hand tight so not to strip out the screw/slots put the vacuum line back on the top of the intake piping reinstall the fender well, screws and clips put anti seize on the threads and on the face of the rotor(if you are having problems with your rims stick to the rotor and not coming off easy) put the tire back hand thread the lug nuts to start and twist them on with 3/4 socket til hand tight and then tighten them down with your impact(or any other tool). If using an impact and your not highly experienced in the use of one make sure you have a torque stick so you don't over tighten your lugs which could lead to rotor warp.

Now start your car let it idle/warm up and take it for a spin see how she sounds and feels. There could be a CEL mine threw the code p00492 i believe it was which was the evap but I had it cleared and it never came back also it could throw lean code as well nothing to worry about have it cleared by autozone or whomever and you are good to go.

I sure hope this helps if you choose to purchase/install the ZZP 3" CAI. Good luck and farewell.

xxxxsh4d0wxxxx

iTrader: (1)

Mine came with all of the hardware. Weird.

OP: It is a very nice product, but as all others have already said, the install is a bit of a bitch. WD-40 is your friend.

insylem

Um My lugnuts are 19mm and I belive the bolts to remove my headlamp were 10mm.
I didnt use an impact, instead I used a breaker bar.