07blackg5 Build Thread. Operation Moneypit
#176
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
That's how pipe threads work. They have a slight cone shape to the hole & fitting. They fit really loose up until the last bit of thread, and then they tighten like a ****. That's why you don't run a npt tap all the way through the hole you're tapping; you'll lose the self-sealing attribute of the npt hole and fitting. It also makes it a bit of a challenge if you are trying to orient a 90* fitting.
#178
Probably.
Have you thought about how you will be setting up the pcv? Im thinking about just cutting the head to spacer gasket and the spacer itself to channel our central port to the lsj port.
That way I wont have to touch the head or the manifold, and only risk the spacer. Looking at the meat of the spacer, I don't see why it wouldn't work. A lot of people just let it get blocked off, but If I can manage to get it to work, I will
Im going to test on the edge of the spacer to see how cleanly it cuts. I might just end up cutting the channel half depth
Have you thought about how you will be setting up the pcv? Im thinking about just cutting the head to spacer gasket and the spacer itself to channel our central port to the lsj port.
That way I wont have to touch the head or the manifold, and only risk the spacer. Looking at the meat of the spacer, I don't see why it wouldn't work. A lot of people just let it get blocked off, but If I can manage to get it to work, I will
Im going to test on the edge of the spacer to see how cleanly it cuts. I might just end up cutting the channel half depth
#180
Im going to try to shave off a bit of an inconspicuous side and see how clean of an edge it leaves. If it cuts cleanly I'll give it a shot. The worst thing that happens is that I need a new spacer. But I would rather trash the spacer than try to modify the mani or head haha
#182
that's what the plan was. Just cut half depth through the spacer from the center of the 2 and 3 ports, up to the lsj port. basically a channel connecting the two.
I was going to use nail polish or something to mark the port on the head, and then press the spacer onto it to get an exact location of the port, "hollow" it out on the spacer, and then make the channel connecting the two
I think this will be todays project
I was going to use nail polish or something to mark the port on the head, and then press the spacer onto it to get an exact location of the port, "hollow" it out on the spacer, and then make the channel connecting the two
I think this will be todays project
#186
I have a mechanical gauge, but I'm not sure exactly where I am going to run the line yet.
If I end up tapping an additional port, it will be on the drivers side of the manifold for a cleaner installation. I will probably just end up capping that factory nipple
If I end up tapping an additional port, it will be on the drivers side of the manifold for a cleaner installation. I will probably just end up capping that factory nipple
#190
We only need the one side hooked up to vacuum which pulls off the blower nipple. Even zzp says to keep the other side disconnected. I'm not sure, but I think the ss uses pressure from that port regulated by a solenoid to control the bypass more than just open or closed with vacuum.
For our needs, we just need the one side of the bypass hooked up. When the tb is closed and there is vacuum, the bypass is pulled open. But when the tb opens and the vacuum goes away, the bypass goes back to its resting state of closed so boost can be built.
For our needs, we just need the one side of the bypass hooked up. When the tb is closed and there is vacuum, the bypass is pulled open. But when the tb opens and the vacuum goes away, the bypass goes back to its resting state of closed so boost can be built.
#192
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Yea the selenoid opens up that port when there is an engine issue which then opens the bypass keeping the boost down that we do not use.
and i just realized what blower nipple so ignore that post lol
and now i just realized that i only used the intake manifold nipple for the boost gauge so ignore everything I said in the last few hours hahahaha
and i just realized what blower nipple so ignore that post lol
and now i just realized that i only used the intake manifold nipple for the boost gauge so ignore everything I said in the last few hours hahahaha
#193
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Yea the selenoid opens up that port when there is an engine issue which then opens the bypass keeping the boost down that we do not use.
and i just realized what blower nipple so ignore that post lol
and now i just realized that i only used the intake manifold nipple for the boost gauge so ignore everything I said in the last few hours hahahaha
and i just realized what blower nipple so ignore that post lol
and now i just realized that i only used the intake manifold nipple for the boost gauge so ignore everything I said in the last few hours hahahaha
#194
So I found a very good solution to our m8/m6 manifold issue.
I saw these a long time ago, but never thought of using them like this. I'm going to buy some shoulder bolts with an m8 shoulder that is way too long, and a short m6 threaded section. depending on how **** you want to be, you can use more bolts, but technically 2 will be fine. all you need to do is slide the bolt s through the manifold, and slide the 2 gaskets and spacer onto the shoulders. If you thread the bolts into the head there will be a big gap between the parts and the head when the shoulder bottoms out against the head. then when you slide the assembly down towards the head, they will be perfectly centered when they hit the surface. You can then put your m6 bolts in the open holes and tighten them down. then remove the shoulder bolts one at a time and replace them with the proper m6 bolts.
I am going to do this with all the holes minus the 2 long ones, and just remove and replace them in the proper torque sequence. they shouldn't shift if torqued properly, plus once the lower bracket is attached, they will be even more stable.
hopefully that makes sense. these are the style bolts i'm talking about.
I saw these a long time ago, but never thought of using them like this. I'm going to buy some shoulder bolts with an m8 shoulder that is way too long, and a short m6 threaded section. depending on how **** you want to be, you can use more bolts, but technically 2 will be fine. all you need to do is slide the bolt s through the manifold, and slide the 2 gaskets and spacer onto the shoulders. If you thread the bolts into the head there will be a big gap between the parts and the head when the shoulder bottoms out against the head. then when you slide the assembly down towards the head, they will be perfectly centered when they hit the surface. You can then put your m6 bolts in the open holes and tighten them down. then remove the shoulder bolts one at a time and replace them with the proper m6 bolts.
I am going to do this with all the holes minus the 2 long ones, and just remove and replace them in the proper torque sequence. they shouldn't shift if torqued properly, plus once the lower bracket is attached, they will be even more stable.
hopefully that makes sense. these are the style bolts i'm talking about.
#195
I also modified the spacer to make the oem pcv systems function. It's not the prettiest thing, but there is no reason why it wouldn't work.
I first used nail polish to mark the port location, and then filled in the area with marker
Then I just used a dremel with a whole bunch of bits to hack it to **** you can see the little J from when I got a lottle carried away haha.
I trimmed the gasket to fit...
gasket on the head to show the allignment. there is some marker on the port I havent cleaned off yet lol
Like I said, it obviously isn't "perfect"...but there is no reason why it wouldn't work
I first used nail polish to mark the port location, and then filled in the area with marker
Then I just used a dremel with a whole bunch of bits to hack it to **** you can see the little J from when I got a lottle carried away haha.
I trimmed the gasket to fit...
gasket on the head to show the allignment. there is some marker on the port I havent cleaned off yet lol
Like I said, it obviously isn't "perfect"...but there is no reason why it wouldn't work
#197
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
So I found a very good solution to our m8/m6 manifold issue.
I saw these a long time ago, but never thought of using them like this. I'm going to buy some shoulder bolts with an m8 shoulder that is way too long, and a short m6 threaded section. depending on how **** you want to be, you can use more bolts, but technically 2 will be fine. all you need to do is slide the bolt s through the manifold, and slide the 2 gaskets and spacer onto the shoulders. If you thread the bolts into the head there will be a big gap between the parts and the head when the shoulder bottoms out against the head. then when you slide the assembly down towards the head, they will be perfectly centered when they hit the surface. You can then put your m6 bolts in the open holes and tighten them down. then remove the shoulder bolts one at a time and replace them with the proper m6 bolts.
I am going to do this with all the holes minus the 2 long ones, and just remove and replace them in the proper torque sequence. they shouldn't shift if torqued properly, plus once the lower bracket is attached, they will be even more stable.
hopefully that makes sense. these are the style bolts i'm talking about.
I saw these a long time ago, but never thought of using them like this. I'm going to buy some shoulder bolts with an m8 shoulder that is way too long, and a short m6 threaded section. depending on how **** you want to be, you can use more bolts, but technically 2 will be fine. all you need to do is slide the bolt s through the manifold, and slide the 2 gaskets and spacer onto the shoulders. If you thread the bolts into the head there will be a big gap between the parts and the head when the shoulder bottoms out against the head. then when you slide the assembly down towards the head, they will be perfectly centered when they hit the surface. You can then put your m6 bolts in the open holes and tighten them down. then remove the shoulder bolts one at a time and replace them with the proper m6 bolts.
I am going to do this with all the holes minus the 2 long ones, and just remove and replace them in the proper torque sequence. they shouldn't shift if torqued properly, plus once the lower bracket is attached, they will be even more stable.
hopefully that makes sense. these are the style bolts i'm talking about.
#199
That should actually be flawless, you sir are a genius. The sizing on the thread portion will have to be perfect to get the proper torque but it should be fine. I was looking at the selection on mcmaster, the options seem to be limitless. Some measurements with the caliper gauges and should have a perfect bolt.
I was just thinking you could use them to get everything lined as you tightened it down. I will probably use 2 shoulder bolts that dont fully bottom out to keep it locked centered.
the risk is that it would have to be absolutely perfect, otherwise it will torque against the head and leave the manifold slightly under spec. but it it didnt bottom out and just made it barely into the spacer, there would be no issue. the only thing that wouldnt be locked center would be the spacer the head gasket, but that would never shift with everything else held centered and torques down
and now that I think of it, I can technically still go back over it and clean it up on the drill press
Last edited by 07blackg5; 02-25-2015 at 10:11 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#200
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
I wouldnt risk it actually using those bolts for the final assembly, unless you just wanted to use some where the shoulder didnt bottom out to keep the manifold and spacer centered (but not actually bottom out against the head).
I was just thinking you could use them to get everything lined as you tightened it down. I will probably use 2 shoulder bolts that dont fully bottom out to keep it locked centered.
the risk is that it would have to be absolutely perfect, otherwise it will torque against the head and leave the manifold slightly under spec. but it it didnt bottom out and just made it barely into the spacer, there would be no issue. the only thing that wouldnt be locked center would be the spacer the head gasket, but that would never shift with everything else held centered and torques down
and now that I think of it, I can technically still go back over it and clean it up on the drill press
I was just thinking you could use them to get everything lined as you tightened it down. I will probably use 2 shoulder bolts that dont fully bottom out to keep it locked centered.
the risk is that it would have to be absolutely perfect, otherwise it will torque against the head and leave the manifold slightly under spec. but it it didnt bottom out and just made it barely into the spacer, there would be no issue. the only thing that wouldnt be locked center would be the spacer the head gasket, but that would never shift with everything else held centered and torques down
and now that I think of it, I can technically still go back over it and clean it up on the drill press