2.2 Auto tranny
I have down ****** it at 45 I dont do it any higher but my manual say you can do it any time. But just like my truck it has 4wd on the fly but I dont ingage it at 50 I stop and do it.
if im going to use it I will drive with it not constantly switch back and fourth.
if im going to use it I will drive with it not constantly switch back and fourth.
Half cent I just read how to launch an automatic is that hard on your transmission I dont care about my brakes there cheap but the tranny isnt.
and have you found a good tranny cooler.
and have you found a good tranny cooler.
you can downshift the autos at any speed...its an auto for a reason...
ive downshifted at 90 of the freeway when i see a cop (to I, not L...but im sure L is also safe) and dont want to stand out by having my brake lights light up
ive downshifted at 90 of the freeway when i see a cop (to I, not L...but im sure L is also safe) and dont want to stand out by having my brake lights light up
Originally Posted by Halfcent
Actually, the rods snapped at 283HP, but who's counting?
The 4t45e transmission is rated at 325 ft/lbs of torque at the gear box. They are not rated by horsepower. However, mated to an Ecotec, 325 ft/lbs is probably around 300 HP. The weak link is your torque converter. That can only take about 220 ft/lbs. You can upgrade the converter, much like upgrading a clutch in a manual.
Your gear selector has the following positions.
P
R
N
D
2
1
There is no "I" as you say. There might be a "3" in there, I don't remember.
In first gear ("1" on the selector), traction control is turned off as you say, but you are still making the exact same amount of power as you would be if you were in drive. Additionally, the trans will still shift to second in this position.
Try this:
Get yourself a stretch of open road. Select "1". Accelerate at WOT. You will see the car shift to second pretty much right at redline. This is actually part of the process for launching this car in a drag race. There is more to it, but that's one of the sub-skills.
BTW, this is all true for "2" as well. Traction control is off, and will shift to 3rd.
The 4t45e transmission is rated at 325 ft/lbs of torque at the gear box. They are not rated by horsepower. However, mated to an Ecotec, 325 ft/lbs is probably around 300 HP. The weak link is your torque converter. That can only take about 220 ft/lbs. You can upgrade the converter, much like upgrading a clutch in a manual.
Your gear selector has the following positions.
P
R
N
D
2
1
There is no "I" as you say. There might be a "3" in there, I don't remember.
In first gear ("1" on the selector), traction control is turned off as you say, but you are still making the exact same amount of power as you would be if you were in drive. Additionally, the trans will still shift to second in this position.
Try this:
Get yourself a stretch of open road. Select "1". Accelerate at WOT. You will see the car shift to second pretty much right at redline. This is actually part of the process for launching this car in a drag race. There is more to it, but that's one of the sub-skills.
BTW, this is all true for "2" as well. Traction control is off, and will shift to 3rd.
Launching and brake torquing is hard on your trans fluid, not the trans itself. While torqued, the fluid is absorbing all of the engine power and converting it to heat. So don't stand on the brake torque any longer then you have to. I have not installed a cooler since I do not yet have a turbo.
Dowshifting to slow down places the burden of deceleration on the fluids on your drivetrain, causing heat. That's why brakes are designed to accept and dissipate heat quickly. Your are increasing the wear of your powertrain. It's not much mind you, but it's still not necessary.
So I ask again, would it be wise then to install a cooler? I don't plan on beating on the tranny a whole lot, but I want the tranny to hold up to the 150k miles I plan on putting on the car.
Originally Posted by Switt23
So I ask again, would it be wise then to install a cooler? I don't plan on beating on the tranny a whole lot, but I want the tranny to hold up to the 150k miles I plan on putting on the car.
i use the I setting alot. infact if i start in L at WOT the trans will shift by itself and bark the front right tire. the I setting works as a trans brake and doesnt shift til 4200 rpm's so its quick and sporty on curvy roads.
Originally Posted by marshall
i use the I setting alot. infact if i start in L at WOT the trans will shift by itself and bark the front right tire. the I setting works as a trans brake and doesnt shift til 4200 rpm's so its quick and sporty on curvy roads.
Halfcent, what about the issue with the torque converter, anyway to fix the slipping? I know you could obviously replace it, but I don't want to risk fighting with the dealership about my warrenty. How long should I wait before changing the tranny fluid to something more synthetic? I already changed my motor oil over, but what about the tranny?
I apologize, i don't mean to thread jack, I figure it's still on topic because it's questions dealing with the tranny.
I apologize, i don't mean to thread jack, I figure it's still on topic because it's questions dealing with the tranny.
Originally Posted by Switt23
Halfcent, what about the issue with the torque converter, anyway to fix the slipping? I know you could obviously replace it, but I don't want to risk fighting with the dealership about my warrenty. How long should I wait before changing the tranny fluid to something more synthetic? I already changed my motor oil over, but what about the tranny?
I apologize, i don't mean to thread jack, I figure it's still on topic because it's questions dealing with the tranny.
I apologize, i don't mean to thread jack, I figure it's still on topic because it's questions dealing with the tranny.
Originally Posted by Halfcent
Converter slip? If its slipping your converter is broken. It should stall on a stock converter at 2400 RPM. A performance part should be around 3000. As far the fluid itself goes, GM's own DEXRON fluid is pretty amazing stuff. There are other good fluid out there, but you would have to do a full trans flush service to switch over. I say stay with DEXRON. Per the Cobalts service schedule, the trans fluid in these cars NEVER has to be replaced. However, if you are beating the stuff up, 50K miles is a good interval. If your are doing a lot of racing, probably more often.
Car has 3,800 miles on it. When leaving the car in overdrive, it feels like it slips when shifting or it's really sloppy. I thought I remember reading on here that it was the converter that slips. So basically the best thing to do is just install the cooler, right? There isn't any shift kits available to firm up the shift points? I know this can be hard on the tranny, but it pisses me off that the car is brand new and the transmission feels sloppy.
Hey halfcent,
can you tell me what exactly can be done to the auto tranny? and websites? Are you talkin about items like these http://www.cobaltperformanceparts.co...on-c-3_11.html ? or is it something different? Also i've seen on www.sportcompactonly.com , they have auto tranny coolers...some are a bit expensive, i think, though. http://www.sportcompactonly.com/products.aspx?l=2&c=47
can you tell me what exactly can be done to the auto tranny? and websites? Are you talkin about items like these http://www.cobaltperformanceparts.co...on-c-3_11.html ? or is it something different? Also i've seen on www.sportcompactonly.com , they have auto tranny coolers...some are a bit expensive, i think, though. http://www.sportcompactonly.com/products.aspx?l=2&c=47
Hi guys. Sorry, I was away for the weekend camping. Anyway...
I would bet your trans is not slipping. You are probably just not used to an automatic. I don't know what you are coming from before this car. If you accelerate aggressively from a constant speed, you are in fact "slipping" the converter, but that's not really a good term. You are stalling it. Look up torque converter stall speed. It's a highly non-understood issue that all automatic trans performance driver should understand.
Brake starting is also a common procedure for launching automatic drag racers. All the NHRA outlaw super stock guys do it. I'll make a how-to about it the future
That link to clutch parts you listed is for a manual clutch, not an automatic.
Those trans coolers look good. Good price too. I have not installed one yet because I simply don't need to. No turbo yet.
I would bet your trans is not slipping. You are probably just not used to an automatic. I don't know what you are coming from before this car. If you accelerate aggressively from a constant speed, you are in fact "slipping" the converter, but that's not really a good term. You are stalling it. Look up torque converter stall speed. It's a highly non-understood issue that all automatic trans performance driver should understand.
Brake starting is also a common procedure for launching automatic drag racers. All the NHRA outlaw super stock guys do it. I'll make a how-to about it the future
That link to clutch parts you listed is for a manual clutch, not an automatic.
Those trans coolers look good. Good price too. I have not installed one yet because I simply don't need to. No turbo yet.
half cent - as far as the tranny cooler goes I was wondering if you had any reccomendations on one since i ahve no clue what size and with a fan or no fan and where it could be mounted, thanks.
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