2.4 mani
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From: Rochester, NY
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...P1817C137.aspx
is the link to the manifold kit, but PM or email CED, they used to sell just the kit itself (minus the IM)
is the link to the manifold kit, but PM or email CED, they used to sell just the kit itself (minus the IM)
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Joined: 11-12-08
Posts: 249
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From: jacksonvillle north carolina
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...P1817C137.aspx
is the link to the manifold kit, but PM or email CED, they used to sell just the kit itself (minus the IM)
is the link to the manifold kit, but PM or email CED, they used to sell just the kit itself (minus the IM)
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Joined: 08-09-08
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From: POMPANO BEACH FL
Last edited by *S!CC_R@c!NG_TURTL3*; Nov 12, 2009 at 06:55 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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From: jacksonvillle north carolina
Do you really need a larger throttlebody? <---click me and read me
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Joined: 11-12-08
Posts: 249
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From: jacksonvillle north carolina
Member
Joined: 11-12-08
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
From: jacksonvillle north carolina
well heres whatim going to do, ported polished head, oversized valves, stage two cams upgraded valve springs retainers whole nine yards, milled head, 2.4 mani, 2.4 throttle body, obviously a tune. so i am wondering if it is worth my while or should i go with a different mani an tb.
Hmm..
2.2l = 134 Cubic inch
Street Strip-RPM x cubic inch/ 3456 x .85= CFM requirements of the motor
My red line is 6500 for example..
(6500x134)=871000
871000 diveded by 3456 = 252.02
Now multiply that by your estimated volumetric efficiency, assuming mine is 85%..
252.05x.85=214.22
According to the guide, you take this and multiply it by 1.5 for street and strip applications
1.5x214.22=321
So unless you go all out NA you probably won't gain anything but keep reading..
If you do a serious NA build / higher rpm applications, you definately could utilize this, remember! 6500RPM is my redline in my 2.2l. You might choose 7000 or 7200k or more after your built up.
2.2l = 134 Cubic inch
Street Strip-RPM x cubic inch/ 3456 x .85= CFM requirements of the motor
My red line is 6500 for example..
(6500x134)=871000
871000 diveded by 3456 = 252.02
Now multiply that by your estimated volumetric efficiency, assuming mine is 85%..
252.05x.85=214.22
According to the guide, you take this and multiply it by 1.5 for street and strip applications
1.5x214.22=321
Originally Posted by Old Man - EF
Now will look at some other numbers.
50mm bore at 25 inches of vacuum flows 380 CFM.
For ever 1 mm bigger is 25 CFM of flow.
These numbers are for non obstructed flows. Since we have a throttle plate, shaft, screws and what not the bore size listed for the throttle body by 70%.
I believe my 2.2 has a 57 mm throttle body as factory.
Thats 555 CFM total flow x .70 (70%)= 388.5 CFM
50mm bore at 25 inches of vacuum flows 380 CFM.
For ever 1 mm bigger is 25 CFM of flow.
These numbers are for non obstructed flows. Since we have a throttle plate, shaft, screws and what not the bore size listed for the throttle body by 70%.
I believe my 2.2 has a 57 mm throttle body as factory.
Thats 555 CFM total flow x .70 (70%)= 388.5 CFM
Originally Posted by Old man - EF
Now we see some posts that will say NAH to this.
I FELT A BIG DIFFERENCE!!!!!!!!
Oh, I wont argue because you did feel a difference!
Now will tell you why.
You got so use to the pedal movement, its stuck in your brain even if your not a gear head.
By having a bigger bored diameter, your letting more CFM in at the same throttle position. It wants to go, it feels like it wants to go, so you believe its so much better because it wants to go. But your ECM doesnt know its suppose to. Its seeing the same input voltage it had before at the same point and is holding the same timing, which impedes it from going. Makes it surgy feeling at times when the throttle is steadily held.
In a nut shell all you've done is make it need less pedal to do the same thing. Guess what, less pedal, less timing.
I FELT A BIG DIFFERENCE!!!!!!!!
Oh, I wont argue because you did feel a difference!
Now will tell you why.
You got so use to the pedal movement, its stuck in your brain even if your not a gear head.
By having a bigger bored diameter, your letting more CFM in at the same throttle position. It wants to go, it feels like it wants to go, so you believe its so much better because it wants to go. But your ECM doesnt know its suppose to. Its seeing the same input voltage it had before at the same point and is holding the same timing, which impedes it from going. Makes it surgy feeling at times when the throttle is steadily held.
In a nut shell all you've done is make it need less pedal to do the same thing. Guess what, less pedal, less timing.
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