FI on stock internals
FI on stock internals
Hey guys, I've been doing some research on a turbo build for my 2.2 but this would be my first FI build so theres some info i wanted to ask you guys about.
I've read that the stock internals are only rated up to 250hp but if i'm going to drop a few grand i would ideally go higher than that so here are my questions:
1)what all internals would need to be upgraded and how much would they cost
2)if i decide not to upgrade internals, will i be fine if i build to 250hp or would it be too risky i.e. only build to 230hp or 240hp
3)is there a torque limit i should be concerned about as well?
I've read that the stock internals are only rated up to 250hp but if i'm going to drop a few grand i would ideally go higher than that so here are my questions:
1)what all internals would need to be upgraded and how much would they cost
2)if i decide not to upgrade internals, will i be fine if i build to 250hp or would it be too risky i.e. only build to 230hp or 240hp
3)is there a torque limit i should be concerned about as well?
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: 02-16-08
Posts: 8,405
Likes: 0
From: Fairfield, CA/Travis AFB, CA
another cali person, what part?
to answer the questions
1. best internals to get would be forged pistons/rods, valvetrain and sleeve the block and you should be golden. oh and dont forget a clutch and flywheel
2. stayin between 230-240 would be the safe bet but there are some people who has went above, but it is risky and up to you if you want to go that far
3. torque wise, im not sure, havent heard much of it. seems to all be all about HP.
to answer the questions
1. best internals to get would be forged pistons/rods, valvetrain and sleeve the block and you should be golden. oh and dont forget a clutch and flywheel
2. stayin between 230-240 would be the safe bet but there are some people who has went above, but it is risky and up to you if you want to go that far
3. torque wise, im not sure, havent heard much of it. seems to all be all about HP.
I think the 250 horsepower number is a bit misleading though. IIRC GM used nitrous to determine the breaking point of the rods. The torque is what would break them, not the horsepower. I would be curious to see the torque that it took to break the rods.
Example: If you were making 200 lb ft at 7500 rpms you would have 285 horsepower. This 2.2 would last alot longer than a 2.2 making 230 horsepower but 260 tq. The torque is what is going to break things.
Example: If you were making 200 lb ft at 7500 rpms you would have 285 horsepower. This 2.2 would last alot longer than a 2.2 making 230 horsepower but 260 tq. The torque is what is going to break things.
Hey guys, I've been doing some research on a turbo build for my 2.2 but this would be my first FI build so theres some info i wanted to ask you guys about.
I've read that the stock internals are only rated up to 250hp but if i'm going to drop a few grand i would ideally go higher than that so here are my questions:
1)what all internals would need to be upgraded and how much would they cost
2)if i decide not to upgrade internals, will i be fine if i build to 250hp or would it be too risky i.e. only build to 230hp or 240hp
3)is there a torque limit i should be concerned about as well?
I've read that the stock internals are only rated up to 250hp but if i'm going to drop a few grand i would ideally go higher than that so here are my questions:
1)what all internals would need to be upgraded and how much would they cost
2)if i decide not to upgrade internals, will i be fine if i build to 250hp or would it be too risky i.e. only build to 230hp or 240hp
3)is there a torque limit i should be concerned about as well?
but seriously yeah forged and sleeved is the way to go. But sleeving a block is not cheap and you definately dont wanna go to the cheapest place in town unless they are good but usually they would charge more if they are good.
250 wouldnt be bad on stock internals. but it probably wouldnt last as long as then engine without the turbo kit. But then alone sleeved and forged probably wouldn't last as long either.
torque question idk much about so sorry.
another cali person, what part?
to answer the questions
1. best internals to get would be forged pistons/rods, valvetrain and sleeve the block and you should be golden. oh and dont forget a clutch and flywheel
2. stayin between 230-240 would be the safe bet but there are some people who has went above, but it is risky and up to you if you want to go that far
3. torque wise, im not sure, havent heard much of it. seems to all be all about HP.
to answer the questions
1. best internals to get would be forged pistons/rods, valvetrain and sleeve the block and you should be golden. oh and dont forget a clutch and flywheel
2. stayin between 230-240 would be the safe bet but there are some people who has went above, but it is risky and up to you if you want to go that far
3. torque wise, im not sure, havent heard much of it. seems to all be all about HP.
thanks for the info man, very helpful. do you have a ballpark of what all those internals will cost and/or a good site to shop at?
honestly drop a 2.4 in it :P
but seriously yeah forged and sleeved is the way to go. But sleeving a block is not cheap and you definately dont wanna go to the cheapest place in town unless they are good but usually they would charge more if they are good.
250 wouldnt be bad on stock internals. but it probably wouldnt last as long as then engine without the turbo kit. But then alone sleeved and forged probably wouldn't last as long either.
torque question idk much about so sorry.
but seriously yeah forged and sleeved is the way to go. But sleeving a block is not cheap and you definately dont wanna go to the cheapest place in town unless they are good but usually they would charge more if they are good.
250 wouldnt be bad on stock internals. but it probably wouldnt last as long as then engine without the turbo kit. But then alone sleeved and forged probably wouldn't last as long either.
torque question idk much about so sorry.
also, i've got about 55k miles on it right now, any additional considerations in light of this?
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: 02-16-08
Posts: 8,405
Likes: 0
From: Fairfield, CA/Travis AFB, CA
I think the 250 horsepower number is a bit misleading though. IIRC GM used nitrous to determine the breaking point of the rods. The torque is what would break them, not the horsepower. I would be curious to see the torque that it took to break the rods.
Example: If you were making 200 lb ft at 7500 rpms you would have 285 horsepower. This 2.2 would last alot longer than a 2.2 making 230 horsepower but 260 tq. The torque is what is going to break things.
Example: If you were making 200 lb ft at 7500 rpms you would have 285 horsepower. This 2.2 would last alot longer than a 2.2 making 230 horsepower but 260 tq. The torque is what is going to break things.
unfortunately i live in fresno right now, hopin to get back to san jose soon though
thanks for the info man, very helpful. do you have a ballpark of what all those internals will cost and/or a good site to shop at?
haha ya i would love to put a 2.4 in, any idea what the rating is for the stock parts in that engine?
also, i've got about 55k miles on it right now, any additional considerations in light of this?
thanks for the info man, very helpful. do you have a ballpark of what all those internals will cost and/or a good site to shop at?
haha ya i would love to put a 2.4 in, any idea what the rating is for the stock parts in that engine?
also, i've got about 55k miles on it right now, any additional considerations in light of this?
you might be lookin at around $1500-$2000 for all the parts. i got 95% of my parts from turbotechracing.com, good prices for the parts.
if youre going try and use 2.4 parts, youre better of just going aftermarket. im at 55k as well, got my engine rebuilt around 51 or 52k
If you don't plan on spinning the motor past 7k rpms, a fully built valvetrain isnt really necessary. Also sleeving the block isnt necessary unless you plan on running a huge amount of boost(or power. 600hp kinda power) through the motor. How much HP are you honestly going for?
If you don't plan on spinning the motor past 7k rpms, a fully built valvetrain isnt really necessary. Also sleeving the block isnt necessary unless you plan on running a huge amount of boost(or power. 600hp kinda power) through the motor. How much HP are you honestly going for?
rods, pistons, head bolts, main bolts, main bearings, rod bearings, deck the block and your choice of boost. in my build we are also replacing the timing chains and guides and balancing the crank as well.
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: 02-16-08
Posts: 8,405
Likes: 0
From: Fairfield, CA/Travis AFB, CA
If you don't plan on spinning the motor past 7k rpms, a fully built valvetrain isnt really necessary. Also sleeving the block isnt necessary unless you plan on running a huge amount of boost(or power. 600hp kinda power) through the motor. How much HP are you honestly going for?
Last edited by BlackCobalt707; Jul 29, 2010 at 05:25 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
If you don't plan on spinning the motor past 7k rpms, a fully built valvetrain isnt really necessary. Also sleeving the block isnt necessary unless you plan on running a huge amount of boost(or power. 600hp kinda power) through the motor. How much HP are you honestly going for?
OP eveyones experience are different some hold together longer than others. If you constantly beat on it it will break, even sometimes before you even reach 250hp. At 250 the rods are supposed to go but I've never actually seen a broken rod in a L61 more often than not the piston fails long before the rod does. Stenguyen1 made 263hp, when we pulled his head the top of the piston was missing a chunk and cracked the ringland. To put into perspective I cracked a ringland making a 165hp and turning 7500RPM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



