When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Lol the camera flash made it look worse than it really is. I thought he did a pretty good job though. It wasn't a port and polish he just ported it out for me. It's up to me to waste my time polishing if I want. As for now I didn't want to run the risk of screwing something up. The pictures were more to demonstrate how much he opened them up than to showcase the surface finish.
Installed ZZP 3" exhaust with cat, resonator, and muffler. It is exactly what I wanted. A deeper tone but way quieter than the junk 2.25" magna flow I have had on there for 9 years. It is going to take me a while to get used to it as I usually shift by sound and today I was accidentally hitting the rev limiter because it is so relatively quiet. I highly recommend this setup if you want to be able to move some air without all the rice.
Exhaust cat-back mocked up Side by side comparison of ZZP humongous resonator and the magnaflow resonator Way more muffler too Inside resonator on the car
I really need to but like you I've had my cobalt since my senior year of high school and the pictures of its progression have been spread out between countless different phones and computers. One day I will get it all together.
Also, how did you like the those rims? Did decreasing the rotational mass make a notifiable difference? Its not something that seems to be talked about a lot here but I've been cruising Miata forums to pick up tips on shaving weight anywhere I can. I am looking at getting some Konig Backbone rims in 16x7 that weigh in at a little over 15lbs a piece
Also, how did you like the those rims? Did decreasing the rotational mass make a notifiable difference? Its not something that seems to be talked about a lot here but I've been cruising Miata forums to pick up tips on shaving weight anywhere I can. I am looking at getting some Konig Backbone rims in 16x7 that weigh in at a little over 15lbs a piece
The wheels are TRMotorsport FF10 17X8 wheels weighing in at 17.1 lbs and right now they are on clearance at Tire Rack for $150. That is a light wheel for a cheap price. You can't really compare the weight directly to a different size like 16X7 because this is a bigger wheel. Its hare to say how much I decreased my rotational mass or even if I did because I never weighed the stock steel 15" wheel with tire although it is actually fairly light. I think I stayed pretty close to the same rotational mass while throwing on a much wider tire plus lower profile. I went from 195 width to 245, also from all seasons to Pilot supersports so it made a huge difference. I actually have me steelies on right now and am using them for the winter.
I cant get over how good your build is lol. I feel inspired now but before I do anything this cool I have a fuel leak to fix. I used to have 17s and I liked them but I want to go to 16s this time around 16x7 with a 205/50R16 to be exact.
Autocross this weekend was really fun. Glad the season has started again. I love my Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R tires. They blow my Michelin Pilot Super Sports out of the water for grip.
What clutch are you running? I'm having a tough time finding anything that's worth my time.
I am actually running the KY stage 1 clutch for the F23 transmission from TTR (KYF23-1). If you look around a bit it would appear this clutch wouldn't be enough but I must not be that hard on it because it hasn't slipped on me yet.
That sounds right, I didn't want much more than stage one. I had originally planned turbo but decided to go the m62 route as its way cheaper. I'll probably go that way though. Or the exedy stage 2 looks alright.
That sounds right, I didn't want much more than stage one. I had originally planned turbo but decided to go the m62 route as its way cheaper. I'll probably go that way though. Or the exedy stage 2 looks alright.
A turbo will yield a higher torque so I would think it would need a better clutch for a given horsepower than the M62. You should be fine with this clutch and the M62.
Placed 5th out of 8 at this one. 2.3 seconds off of the leading 2015 Focus ST driven by the owner of Panda motorworks and I guess the second place ST that was in there had the same mods, same tune, basically same everything according the the Panda motorworks guy. Then I was 1.3 seconds off of a 500 Abarth, and .810 off of fourth place which was another Focus ST. This course was mostly sweepers which my open diff loved
Problem is I noticed my car is drinking oil at a rate that I have to do something now. I know part of it is my PCV configuration. I wish I could find some information on how it routes through the block and how exactly is works. It could be the case that my cylinder bore is just wore and time for a new block. Will be finding out shortly.
Made stock lsj h/e crash bar mount brackets out of 1/8" aluminum cut out with a cut off wheel and bent in a vise with a small sledge hammer. I have the flat pattern I would share if anyone ever wanted to duplicate this to relocate the h/e in FRONT of the AC condenser.
It is when I can keep it running right! lol I will put up an image of the flat pattern. If someone want's a PDF, DXF, or whatever format, PM me with an email address and I will send you the file. The way I did it I just printed off a 1:1 scale flat pattern, traced it and cut around the line. Depending on what you have access too you can import a DXF format straight into most sheet metal CNC setups. I left the bolt holes that bolt to the h/e off of the pattern to allow some flexibility when positioning but they are fairly easy to mockup with a sharpy especially if you have another set of hands to hold the h/e in place while you mark it. I had to bend the input and output tubes slightly to get adequate clearance from the radiator shroud and front cradle. That is easy enough to do just be easy with them and go slow.
Front mount bracket for LSJ stock h/e. Passenger side configuration shown. Drivers side bracket will need to be formed opposite direction. May want to install rubber bushings in between brackets and h/e I'm not sure how much the front crash bar flexes but I was hoping it wouldn't be enough to cause fatigue cracks.