I really like the ZZP larger radiator but would also have to get a separate trans cooler. That could be mounted about anywhere and may be good to get the trans temps out of the coolant temps.

 

Do you know if our radiators are the same as the LSJ radiators? Wondering if it would be possible to swap the double fan shroud out with our single fan shrouds.

 

Radiators are a different part number and the Shroud and motor cost is a deal breaker.

 

Here you both go. Halfcent figured this out awhile ago, he isn't around much it at all anymore

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/gene...estion-289576/

 

The radiators are all the same across all the cars. only difference is the fan / wiring, and if you have the Auto Trans cooler hooked into it.

Stock GM Radiators < Mishimoto/ZZP < TJP Radiator.

We are actually working on a stand alone heat sink type trans cooler for the racecar. trying to find a pump for it thats not bank account breaking.

 

Does the stock manual 5-speed Cobalt, like mine, have any sort of trans cooler?

 

none of the gm fwd manual transaxles have transmission coolers. to run one requires an electric fluid pump.

 

How much abuse does it take to get on too warm? Like at what point do you start needing a trans cooler?

 

it takes a lot. on the street, not at all needed. on a track/street cobalt i really wouldnt be too concerned with it. under full race conditions its for sure something to consider. beating on a car for 30 minutes plus will elevate trans temps quite high in anything. fluid breaking down is the number 1 concern, get the fluid too hot and its viscosity drops and it doesnt lubricate causing galling. this is why its important to run a good quality transmission fluid.

now that being said, thats not true of all cars. out transmissions use a torsen lsd (or open diff), they dont work off pure friction and dont create a lot of heat. something with a plate or cone style lsd creates a lot of heat. my 944 for example uses a plate style lsd, along with cup/cone bearings throughout (require preload for proper function, that creates heat), they build a lot of heat. without a cooler system that transaxle can get to 250*f in 15 minutes of track time, people have seen as high as 350*f on long races. they also dont last long doing that. porsche had an optional cooler system with mechanical pump added to the transmission, and even then on a long race they can see trans temps up at 250*f with the oe cooler. adding a better cooler in direct airflow with fans corrects that.

 

Alright so update on using the LSJ block. Piston oil squirters interfere with my Wiseco pistons in the LSJ block. I don't know if it has to do with stroke, piston design, or both. Our proposed solution is to get gen 2 LNF piston oilers which have a tube instead of solid cast and form the tube out of the way for clearance. I will report back here if it works or not.

 

Wiescos have more material under the skirt common problem
diamonds usually clear just fine

 

Wish I would have known this ahead of time lol. Of the regular vendors only TTR had pistons for the 2.2 and Wiseco is all they have for 2.2.

 

Wiseco and diamond will make you any piston you want, just have to ask.

 

Thing is even if I did I wouldn't have anticipated clearance with the oilers being a problem. Problem is with these things I usually learn of them after it is do late to compensate for them.

 

grab a set of lnf oil nozzles from zzp

 

I actually ordered some through a local dealer. ZZP's prices are definitely better but I needed it fast so the machine shop can finish up my bottom end this week so I can hopefully install it over the holiday. ZZP had overnight shipping at $80 to me. Through the dealer I paid about $2 more per nozzle but shipping was free so I went that route.

 

Machine shop got back to me and said the LNF piston oilers worked and my bottom end is ready! Going to pick it up here shortly.

 

I just picked up my bottom end from the machine shop and discovered that they broke the mounting tab off of my exhaust side balance shaft sprocket. So my plans of getting this back together over the holiday are completely shot as I have to track down a balance shaft end and a clutch alignment tool because they didn't put that on either.

 

short block unwrapped after bringing home from machine shop

My balance shaft sprocket cast mount housing is supposed to show up this Saturday. I bought new flywheel and pressure plate to flywheel bolts. Do I necessarily need new bolts here? The build book says replace if necessary. Borrowed a universal clutch alignment tool and the smaller pilot adapters because I hadn't actually taken my engine out and looked at the end of the crank yet. When I did I discovered the pilot hole on the crank shaft is actually pretty big. Will pick up the bigger adapter over lunch and see if it will work. Hopefully it does or I will have to continue my hunt for a clutch alignment tool.

Plan, again revised, is to get this cradle bolted in this weekend and hopefully be driving by next week.

 

Are they covering the cost to replace that?

 

I was going to talk to them about covering it but I ended up paying $5 for a used replacement part and $6 for shipping. Not really worth the trouble of trying to get that out of them. However, I do not think I will have work done at that machine shop again.

 

What work did they do that you couldn't or chose not to?

 

Remove and install sleeves, deck the block, and hone the piston bore for uniform clearance around each piston, polish the crank, and balance the rotating assembly. Basically I don't want to have another oil burner like I did before. I would have just purchased a short block if anyone made them with a 2.2 crank, rods, and pistons.

 

Nice... I hope you have much better luck this time.

 

I would just replace the flywheel bolts. I know Trevor does every time. Cheap insurance.