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Not sure if I ever posted before but here is a picture of my trap door oil pan from Powell My shop helper slacking on the job head studs in Head on, timing chain installed Confirm timing cams Confirm timing crank
Last edited by jdbaugh1; Jul 10, 2017 at 10:41 AM.
Apparantly some of my pictures are too large to post. Has been giving me a hell of a time today because it doesn't tell you they are too large it just doesn't work.
ATI damper installed. Man was this thing a PITA. Keyway doesn't extend out to the end of the crank but this pulley is press on. All I could do was eyeball the keyway alignment the best I could while simultaneously trying get the pulley started on the shaft. Used the old pulley to align the oil pump prior. Lightly tapped the pulley to get it started. Cut the thick washer off of an old crank bolt so that it would engage adequate threads to use it to pull the ATI on the shaft.
Had to attach pictures as attachments because I couldn't get the picture uploader to work for some reason after trying all morning.
The first picture caption was:
-Supercharger on with 1/2" ZZP spacer plat with 1/8" NPT for my meth/water nozzles. BARELY had any clearance for my Devils Own methanol/water injection nozzles. Even ground the flat spot of the IM smooth for better clearance. I have the left nozzle clocked so the line doesn't hit the rib on the SC putting it in a pinch.
Second picture:
-Made a new "air-box" out of radiation barrier to keep hot engine bay air out of my intake.
Third picture:
-The intake gets air from underneath. I also have a deflector plate, on the bottom, to keep water out of the intake. This has been tested in torrential downpours although I would never drive it through deep standing water.
Last edited by jdbaugh1; Jul 10, 2017 at 11:07 AM.
Have the engine under the car ready to try and line everything up with an air lift on one side and two floor jacks on the other side. It will be a very slow process but should work.
Engine is pretty much back in. Just have to connect a few lines and install the electric box and should be able to start up for the first time tonight.
I was hoping to be able to upload a first startup video today but I made 2 mistakes while reassembling that lord knows how long will take me to rectify. First I just popped the fuse box on but anxious about first startup I forgot to tighten the bolts that pull the connectors on. I got the same lock symbol but nothing else. I didn't even have power to connect OBD which makes sense. So then I corrected that issue but I still only had the lock symbol show up on the dash. No other lights.
The fuel rail harness connector and the TB connector have the same plug. I forgot my little TB adapter pigtail and was throwing TB codes so I swapped the connectors thinking I had accidentally mixed them up and fried my MAP sensor in the process.
I'm now thinking I may have fried some relays but not sure how that would have happened. I just know I can remove the Run/Crank relay, swap it around with other of the same relay and the symptoms stay the same. I hate it when I sabotage myself like this.
You can't fry a relay. They operate off of system voltage. In fact they put pins 30 and 87 diagonal so they can't even be put in incorrectly. Not sure how you damaged a MAP.
Pulled my blower apart. sorry I didn't take any pictures. To answer your questions:
I measured a hair under 6oz of oil that came out. I filled it back with 220ml since it wasn't totally a "dry" fill.
The needle bearings were all still in tact, but looked mostly dry. There wasn't much, if any, visible grease on them. none looked chewed up, and they still spun freely and smoothly. The rotor housing was coated in greasy grime, so I assume it all just broke down and worked itself out over time. The end of the shafts that ride in the bearings were clean where the needles contact, but had a blue grease film on the inner and outer edges. No swirls like you stated.
Edit: Bought it used from a buddy, and he said he had about 6k miles on it. I put around 9k miles, so its somewhere around mid teen-k miles
You can't fry a relay. They operate off of system voltage. In fact they put pins 30 and 87 diagonal so they can't even be put in incorrectly. Not sure how you damaged a MAP.
I damaged the MAP by accidentally mixing up the fuel rail connection with the TB connection. As the MAP sensor also connects through the fuel rail connection I think it applied voltage to the MAP and fried it.
I haven't seen this done at the dealer level so I don't know if any of the PCM driver transistors for the injectors line up with a ground for the TB. If it does, hopefully it did not take out some of the drivers. That's a PCM replacement. I'll pull a schematic and look. I didn't know that connector was keyed the same.
What year wiring and PCM are you using?
Last edited by Henry3959; Jul 14, 2017 at 11:15 AM.
i haven't seen this done at the dealer level so i don't know if any of the pcm driver transistors for the injectors line up with a ground for the tb. If it does, hopefully it did not take out some of the drivers. That's a pcm replacement. I'll pull a schematic and look. I didn't know that connector was keyed the same.
Will be attempting to fire up the car tonight on the old tune. Only thing I really changed was going to an OD crank pulley and Stage 2 blower cams from ZZP so my tuner thinks I should at least be able to fire it up on old tune to get some initial data. Will record first start up and post video here hopefully without anymore chaos.
Pulled my blower apart. sorry I didn't take any pictures. To answer your questions:
I measured a hair under 6oz of oil that came out. I filled it back with 220ml since it wasn't totally a "dry" fill.
The needle bearings were all still in tact, but looked mostly dry. There wasn't much, if any, visible grease on them. none looked chewed up, and they still spun freely and smoothly. The rotor housing was coated in greasy grime, so I assume it all just broke down and worked itself out over time. The end of the shafts that ride in the bearings were clean where the needles contact, but had a blue grease film on the inner and outer edges. No swirls like you stated.
Edit: Bought it used from a buddy, and he said he had about 6k miles on it. I put around 9k miles, so its somewhere around mid teen-k miles
Did yours look anything like this (minus the marks where I ran my finger through it)?
Went to start it up after rebuild for the first time and oil started dumping out on the garage floor. I should have looked into the differences between an L61 and LSJ block more deeply. I just assumed plug and play and went with it. Dumb. The LSJ block has routing for an oil cooler off of the oil filter housing on the block. Good news is I will now have an oil cooler. Bad news is it delayed my build for another week and dammit I want to autocross some this summer.
Drives down the road fine but I need to get me tune sorted as I am still running the stock cam tune with ZZP's S2 blower cams. It doesn't like to start very well right now or idle. Long as I don't have any vacuum leaks I think it is pretty healthy.
Get those cams tuned for and start enjoying the car
That is the plan! I am already sad at the autocross events that I have missed in my area. I spent all winter trying to fix the oil consumption issue just to spend most the summer rebuilding the engine. I am really looking forward to some taking er for some rips.
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