Hey guys, just bought some supercharger parts from another member on the site as I am ready to begin the process the supercharger my car (well, sometime this summer).

Here's what I have this far.

Ported M62 Blower (with sensor in it, what one is that? MAP?)
Ported LSJ Throttle Body
Stage 2 Pulley, 2.8" Pulley, 2.7" Pulley
#42 Injectors (with pigtails)
Stage 2 Belt
Heat Exchanger Pump
Boost Control Thing (What is this part, left of the TB in the picture?)
Bolts (Can't tell what they go to)
SC to Intake Gasket
TB to SC Gasket



I know I need a Heat Exchanger/Brackets, Pulley Tensioner, Water Pump Bracket, LSJ Air Intake (probably will go with a CAI off the bat), an LSJ Windshield Washer Reservoir, LSJ Upper Radiator Hose, and a Boost gauge. Will I need anything else?

Also, a couple more questions.

1. Regarding the heat exchanger, the ZZP seems to be a decent price and I've read it can replace the stock H/E. Will this work fine, or would I be fine with getting a stock H/E?

2. Does anyone make an injector harness that connects Stage 2 injectors the the 2.2 engine harness (replacing the stock injector harness), so I don't have to hack up mine?

Thanks guys!

I hope to get the rest of my parts as soon as I can so I can put this thing together in the Summer!

 

I think your gonna have to hack up your harness so you can install those injectors, and you don't really need the washer reservoir unless you like to wash your windshield alot

 

Okay, it's not a biggy, I'm sure I can always get another one if I needed to go back to stock...


Sadly, with my Cobalt being my all-year DD, and the massive amounts of salt used during the winter, a windshield washer reservoir is a necessity, otherwise the windshield turns into a mess of salt, and I can't see.

 

LSJ alternator maybe do to the lsj belt being 1 rib bigger. Well i know you need it to sc the 2.4...

 

you wont need the alternator... you can flip the wires in yours

the zzp tensioner works good if your running a smaller pulley but you have to shave out the mounting tabs that the engine host bracket bolts onto in order for the pulley to clear enough

good luck with your build

 

Well you could always carefully tear one rib off, what kind of dog is that in the corner?!

 

looks like the camaro won't be getting back on the road anytime soon.
Congrats on making the descions to SC yout balt. If I had your car thats what I would do. That would be an awesome DD.

Keep us posted and document everything.

 

The bigger bolts are used to hold the blower to the intake manifold. The smaller bolts appear to be the bolts that hold the throttle body to the blower.

The sensor on top of the blower is a MAP sensor that reads inlet psi, vacuum. The sensor on the IM is another MAP sensor. Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor. It reads boost. The other sensor plugs into your vacuum lines that run to the by-pass valve also mounted on the blower. That sensor controls the stock boost gauge by reading vacuum and boost.

I hope that's right lol I'm sure about the first two but not the last part. I hope that helps with your build. Good luck.

 

That's no dog, it's his feet.

 

Haha, that's the picture from the seller. I haven't taken all the stuff out of the box, so I just used his picture.

Looks like a golden retriever.

What do you mean flip my wires?

Will the stock H/E be sufficient, and how easily does it mount?

 

I do not recommend the stock heat exchanger. I recommend a front mount set up. OTT has a sweet heat exchanger kit. I personally have the small CX racing heat exchanger. A friend of mine has the ZZP front mount. The ZZP is wider and fills the hole in the front bumper better than the CX. I guess it all depends on how much you want to spend.

 

I can run a front mount with an LT fascia, right? I want to keep more of a sleeper look...

 

from what i have heard ottp is the best out there, im pretty sure it would have no problem fitting. worse comes to worse you can always trim a bit to make it fit...

 

How well do those fit, come with brackets?

Basically, I don't want to do a whole ton of fab work, since this is my DD and I can hardly have any down time at all.

Just took a TON of photos...then took all the packing peanuts out of the box (the box was packed very well for shipping, but it is sitting in a basement now, so thats not needed anymore). Will have to clean these parts out/off good before installing.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v5.../Supercharger/



Looks like the sensor on the intake manifold busted. Oh well...

 

pm me if you have any questions im a vet of this build.

 

tell me what your gonna do about the lsj tb harness. you gonna repin it? how r u gonna make it work?

 

My ZZP one didnt fit under the stock bumper really, and its a lot thinner than the OTTP HE's (its thinner and has more surface area, whereas the others are shorter but much fatter)

No alternator work will need to be done. Electrically, you just need to rewire the TB harness and the fuel injectors, and find a switched power source for your intercooler pump and boost gauge

let me know if you have any issues

 

Maybe I'll have to stick with the stock H/E for now then, maybe find a small race H/E later on?

 

its your call.. I just drove bumperless for a week or so and waited for an SS bumper to arrive

 

I hear that the large CX racing heat exchanger can easily replace the stock h/e. There's even a how to on it. You should look into that.

 

That looks like a pretty good setup...now to check the cost of said CX H/E

I wonder if it would fit under the bumper...

 

Also, a couple other things...

How much boost is safe to run on the stock 2.2L bottom end?

I'm planning on a Auto Meter Cobalt Mechanical Boost gauge (was looking at the electric ones - but they're like $125 more than the mechanical), where would one plumb that to? And should I go Boost or Boost/Vac.

 

i think the windshield washer resevoir is the same as the LSJ one it just sits on the opposite side...in the whole where our CAI normally goes. i bet you can just move it over to the other side...

 

Just checked GMPartsDirect, two different part numbers...

Anyone know if this'll work?

 

Actually I lied I may be thinking of something else...

Either way I'm pretty sure you could rig something like that up...