naturally aspirated 2.2
LS4 TB you need the TB Adapter plate & The Hahn Street Sheet metal Intake Manifold, That's what I'm doing with stage 2 Cams.
You could do LSJ TB but; Will it fit the 2.4L manifold? I don't know.
Hahn Intake Manifold:http://www.turbosystem.com/ProjectVe...baltintake.htm
LS4 TB:http://www.zzperformance.com/cobalt_...=999&catid=174
Adapter Plate:http://www.zzperformance.com/cobalt_...&msg=1&catid=0 on this select "LS Truck Adapter Machining" and "No Port Plugs" unless you plan on "Injecting".
You could do LSJ TB but; Will it fit the 2.4L manifold? I don't know.
Hahn Intake Manifold:http://www.turbosystem.com/ProjectVe...baltintake.htm
LS4 TB:http://www.zzperformance.com/cobalt_...=999&catid=174
Adapter Plate:http://www.zzperformance.com/cobalt_...&msg=1&catid=0 on this select "LS Truck Adapter Machining" and "No Port Plugs" unless you plan on "Injecting".
being NA isnt a factor in size... in fact, you want bigger intake side parts when NA than when turbo, which iirc is the manifolds original intended use
There was a guy recently who picked up 10hp just by opening his dump. Honda has proved the 3" exhaust theory time and time again on a N/A car(granted stock they flow a ton more air than a mildly modded L61).
stage 3 cams like a 3" exhaust, I've run both sizes and the 3" pulled alot harder up top but the low end didn't have much feel(with stage 3s it already feels a little sluggish of the line). I went back to a 2.5" for the sheer noise factor but it deffinatly dropped some top end power.
There was a guy recently who picked up 10hp just by opening his dump. Honda has proved the 3" exhaust theory time and time again on a N/A car(granted stock they flow a ton more air than a mildly modded L61).
There was a guy recently who picked up 10hp just by opening his dump. Honda has proved the 3" exhaust theory time and time again on a N/A car(granted stock they flow a ton more air than a mildly modded L61).
thats a very key point. the K20 series is already geared for high rpm power, so a larger 3" exhaust will help make power where its intended power band is. If the OP wants to drive his car other than at the track and doesnt want to have to rev out each gear, id suggest a 2.5" its really opinion on where you want your powerband at though
I'm selling my LS4 TB if you guys need one. Check my FS thread for pics...
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/parts-66/60s-ls4-tb-m62-raw-cai-ttr-sway-2-7-ss-sc-wheels-poly-mounts-boost-gauge-219002/
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/parts-66/60s-ls4-tb-m62-raw-cai-ttr-sway-2-7-ss-sc-wheels-poly-mounts-boost-gauge-219002/
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Dont forget that the LS4 and LSJ TB's are 8 pin so depeding on the year you may need to rewire a little bit... There are plenty of diagrams on here for it though.
My questions are:
1. What are you planning on tuning your car with?
2. What RPM are you trying to rev to?
3. What type of power are you realistically trying to make?
4. Why? This isn't a dick question but more curious as to why you're choosing this route, rather than forced induction.
The problem is this, when you're looking at that high of compression on a car that from the factory should be using 93 octane in the first place, you have all types of battles to combustion chamber temps just on day to day driving. Also very aggressive camshafts are just that, aggressive...no matter how many cylinders you have.
Unless you are truely looking to rev way past 7000k RPMs, you're almost wasting your money on your setup. The patriot head is a much higher flowing head than in comparison to your factory cylinder head. Aggressive camshafts on 4 cylinders don't have a high enough velocity build up at lower RPMs because they are designed for much higher RPM usage...thats the nature of it, the higher duration and lift, the slower velocity build up.
Your cylinder head setup alone is designed for something of the 7k+ RPM range of STILL making power. Granted having a higher compression helps with torque, you're going to have a very tough time dealing with high RPM revving and high compression during those RPMs when it comes to tuning and making sure there isn't any knocking occuring. This is why most people go with forced induction setups...you don't need aggressive camshafts, you don't need a higher compression...you can force a ton of air and still manage to not have any knocking situations.
Also the big thing with tuning is that even if you could use HP Tuners, HP Tuners is not good past your stock RPM rev limiter as far as mapping goes. Mapping for ignition and fueling can be almost oblivious. So with this in mind, you would need to look more in the standalone route.
You add all this up with parts, labor and dyno tuning time and you could have gotten a much manageable forced induction setup and make WAY more power than you're really going to make on a naturally aspirated 2.2L Inline 4. Your motor just does not have the breathing characteristics to make HUGE power numbers. This is why the n/a 4 cylinders that do make some power rev the **** out of their motors and have off balance HP / TQ numbers.
1. What are you planning on tuning your car with?
2. What RPM are you trying to rev to?
3. What type of power are you realistically trying to make?
4. Why? This isn't a dick question but more curious as to why you're choosing this route, rather than forced induction.
The problem is this, when you're looking at that high of compression on a car that from the factory should be using 93 octane in the first place, you have all types of battles to combustion chamber temps just on day to day driving. Also very aggressive camshafts are just that, aggressive...no matter how many cylinders you have.
Unless you are truely looking to rev way past 7000k RPMs, you're almost wasting your money on your setup. The patriot head is a much higher flowing head than in comparison to your factory cylinder head. Aggressive camshafts on 4 cylinders don't have a high enough velocity build up at lower RPMs because they are designed for much higher RPM usage...thats the nature of it, the higher duration and lift, the slower velocity build up.
Your cylinder head setup alone is designed for something of the 7k+ RPM range of STILL making power. Granted having a higher compression helps with torque, you're going to have a very tough time dealing with high RPM revving and high compression during those RPMs when it comes to tuning and making sure there isn't any knocking occuring. This is why most people go with forced induction setups...you don't need aggressive camshafts, you don't need a higher compression...you can force a ton of air and still manage to not have any knocking situations.
Also the big thing with tuning is that even if you could use HP Tuners, HP Tuners is not good past your stock RPM rev limiter as far as mapping goes. Mapping for ignition and fueling can be almost oblivious. So with this in mind, you would need to look more in the standalone route.
You add all this up with parts, labor and dyno tuning time and you could have gotten a much manageable forced induction setup and make WAY more power than you're really going to make on a naturally aspirated 2.2L Inline 4. Your motor just does not have the breathing characteristics to make HUGE power numbers. This is why the n/a 4 cylinders that do make some power rev the **** out of their motors and have off balance HP / TQ numbers.
Well you could always switch to e85 and like forced induction you open up a whole lot of possibilities. Theres alot of people running 13:1 and 14:1 wih e85 and driving on the street which I find extremely impressive. Plus there are higher flowing heads than the patriot for a little more with usuable flow numbers at diffferent lifts.
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