I need to remove my exhaust to put my new one on is it possible to remove it without cutting it? I know it would be easier to cut it but all I have is a small hacksaw.

Thanks

 

yes, you need to lower the rear axle by undoing the shocks

 

fyi just make the 1 cut i wastrying to without cutting it and its just flat out a bitch 2 do

edit: just noticed its a 2.2 not sure if its the same as my ss s/c

 

i've done it before, twice it sucks, but is possible. like said you have to drop the rear torsion beam. When i did it on my 2.0 we had to pretty much take it off to get the clearance we needed. un-bolting the shocks didn't drop it down enough, even with me literally standing on the rotor and jumping up and down.

word of advice, the torsion beam is pretty heavy, don't try to take it off by yourself. you'll probably drop it and pin yourself under your car. it's awkward for one person, ideally you would have one person taking off the bolts, and 2 people to catch the beam, one on either side. you also may have to disconnect the brake lines so you're not over-stretching them.

 

tried...it was a bitch so i cut the bitch

 

iv done it, it sucks....

 

Reciporcating (sp?) saw is your friend

 

haha nice

 

thank for the help i just used this mini hacksaw i had it took a while but finally got it

but when i installed the ss/sc catback the ground clearance is horrible it is only 2 inches from the ground, is this normal

 

if you are lowered it is...ive scraped mine a few times. oh well, what are you gonna do. it sounds purdy tho

 

Cutting it is a bitch, but if you ask me removing everything else to get a pipe out that can be easily cut is a waste of time. You will probably spend more time taking things off to remove the exhuast then just cutting it to begin with. I cut mine with a small hacksaw, took me about 5 mins to cut through it. Arm hurt like a bitch after cutting it because of the angle, but it was quicker than the other route.

 

actually i solved and figured out this problem, the reason it goes lower on the driver side right before the rear beam is b/c the flanges arent lined up the same between the dp and catback, i mean they bolt up but look at it, f you manage to twist the flange to the passenger side a bit you will be able to get it to sit perfect, how do i know, b/c when i had mymegan it did the same thing, and when i went to get my dp done, i was there with the guy makng it, and we put a lifting thing on the exhaust so we could get it to tuck the wy it should and the flanged was sitting a diagnal...not all the way, just maybe 30degrees to the passenger side...that made everything fit fine...so if you want go to a exhaust shop have them cut 6" after the flanged, tell them to tuck the exhaust, than reweld it, yo will see it will sit fine, although the muffler tp will be a but slanted, by the same degree, i dotn mind i have the megan it came with the drift spec, so now it looks better, but good luck


sorry it was a cell pick, but u can kinda see the thing we used to hold the exhaust up on the part that comes done alot, than we welded on the new dp to let it match up, it was funny, cuz he asked if its sappose to do that, i was like, so far al the balts ive seen have that downward curve, some by a bit, and some by alot, he was like **** them, ths is your cobalt, and yours wont have it, than he stared at it and made it all work, it was funny he is a cool guy, i do all my welding there...

if you look at it the right side of the flange(where the 2 bolts go thru) is hgher than the left, not just us of the angel, lok closluy u can see it sitting a bit angled

 

cut my with sawzall smoked right thru it 10 secs....
yah i had to twist mine a few times after i took a test ride...it was hitting somewhere and riding really low...pita with no lift either

 

yeh mine is super frikin low to the ground, but i never seem to scrape it unless im traveling to fast into driveways, which usually never happens or if i have a car load. btw if you get the ss/sc catback cut the dang muffler off and get an after market